http://www.madselectronics.com/CodeF...EGRDelete.html

 

Looks to me like that only applies to Middle East, South America, and Eastern Europe. Also, that includes the DPF delete.
I pulled my camper about 600 miles round trip this weekend, and definitely didn't notice a drop in hp like Marco was noting.

 

I did notice a huge change in the engine tone with respect to timing. The unplugging of the EGR with the S67 seems to negate any increase in timing. After plugging in the EGR and clearing the DTC, the timing "clatter" was definitely more pronounced and power was up. I still don't know what the ETC torque level 2 DTC is all about.

 

The Middle East, South America, and Eastern Europe are the only places where it's legal to do the deletes. So someone is covering there rear end by saying it that way.

 

Thought I'd chime in here, being a new guy and all to this website. I've read all the posts, seen some pics of walking through this whole EGR thing, but, I'm not too sure on this whole DPF removal thing. I just picked up a new leftover '07 Megacab DRW (hopefully she'll treat me as good as my '06 2500 5.9 did), and I just unplugged the EGR, fired it up and no stumbling or anything, idled like she should, so I think I'm good to go. I'd like to remove the DPF, and seal the crossover. But, exactly where is this DPF flapper?? Here's a pic, is it the spring coil deal in the little case that the EGR plugs into, or somewhere within the pic?? Or am I still missing the boat here! LOL! You'd think after 25 or more pages I'd have a better understanding, but, reckon I'm just being ****, little nervous about tearing into a day old truck!! So far around town, with EGR plugged in, it looks like 12.5-13 on the overhead, with 400 miles. I post again with results of the unplugged mileage. You guys are great, can't believe all the info thats available to me on this site. Thanks.

Dave

 

The DPF is the huge canister right in front of your muffler in your exhaust. In front of the DPF is the NOx adsorber and in the downpipe is a Cat. The "flapper" that is mentioned in relation to the EGR is found inside the intake horn. If your truck isn't stumbling or anything with the EGR unplugged, there really isn't any reason to remove it. You can remove the crossover tube from the EGR cooler to the EGR itself if you wish. I think the Dorman freeze plug number that works to plug it is earlier in this thread.

 

I went to MADS website and looked at the EGR removal page. I have a question. Could just the actuator be removed from the Solenoid to achieve the same results as unplugging the EGR except for the loss of 30 or 40 horse power. Or do you have to do all of the steps listed to do this properly ? Right now I am mainly wanting to keep the soot out of my engine. I have had the turbo flush done once already at 18 thousand miles and now I am at 24 thousand and got the 2262 about a week ago. Thanks

 

If you are still OEM equipped, then no. The little lite with the lightning bolt will show up as the system monitors the inlet temperature of the EGR into the intake manifold. It would try to open the EGR and then assume its plugged or other error and trip the CEL.

 

Do you have to have the insight box to unplug the EGR? If I dont have the box and unplug the EGR, and plug it back in a couple days before service work would that be good enough or would there be a visible code that the service tech would see?

 

I plugged my EGR back in last night, to see if the code would go away, and it is still on. I guess I misunderstood the meaning of "soft code". I thought it would clear itself when plugged back in. Guess not.

 

It takes a few key cycles for it to turn off. It WILL turn off but it WILL be stored in the ECM but they have to dig to find it.

 

I believe it's usually 3 key cycles.

 

Could you just remove the butterfly and leave it pluged in? Would that solve the problem of the codes.

 

No, there are pressure sensors that will register too much fresh air flow when the EGR is trying to direct EG and will trip a CEL. I don't know if it is a soft code or a hard code, but it will trip.

 

So is there a REAL way to get around all the Lights and Codes yet? I dont want to make a move on a 6.7 till I know you can turn one up with out PROBLEMS. I found a 08 Just dont want the Headache of EGR and DPF delete codes