parafirediesel

I have a 07.5 3500 auto 6.7, after having it in the shop three times in the first seven thousand miles my dealer took me outside and gave me some off record advice and I got a DPF-R delete kit. I unplugged the EGR, and have not had one issue since (minus a power steering failure). I use my truck only to haul my cabover camper and pull my 22ft boat. So I am just now breaking 60k on it. That being said I am well out of my warranty period time wise and want to optimize my fuel economy while maintaining essentially a stealth delete. I live in TX and while its saftey inspection only I want to keep things stealth in case something changes in the future. When I bought the above kit it came with a straight pipe to replace the DPF and sensor resistors and a stealth so to speak programmer. I still have the original DPF and its in good shape hanging in my shop. All the above being said I want to optimize my fuel economy while eliminating code throws and throttle surge on startup (butterfly valve opening and shutting due to egr unplugged). I also would like to be able to plug the EGR back in after removing the spring of course. However I am quite sure I need to do some other things when I do this. I've read on here extensively and know what the stock to delete process entails however I cannot really find alot of info on my present set up and making changes.Should I be concerned with any buildup due to my EGR being unplugged for so long when plugging it back in? Any advice on tuners? I would like to monitor as much as possible so I was leaning towards a H&S. Thanks for any and all advice.

xcc_rider

So to clarify, you're currently using sims and a code cancelling tuner?
Not hard to change to a delete tuner set up. Most will tell you to remove the sims, load their tuner and follow their delete instructions.

You can go H&S, EFI, delete capable Smarty or a RaceMe tuner. With the last three you need to add gauges or a gauge system like the Edge CTS Insight. The last three options with the CTS will be substantially cheaper than the H&S but there's good and bad with all the systems.

As for how to install one, this is a good resource: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t273345.html

How "stealth" do you want to be? If you're happy with what you have now but want to plug the egr back in, you can do so without "really" plugging it back in. I did this by sourcing a spare actuator and cutting off the connecting pins. No contact so its still "unplugged".
If you have the surging issue you can remove the gear from the TCV to disable it. This way it stays plugged in and keeps with the stealth look.
If you want to go full "stealth" you can core out the canisters and leave it all plugged in. I'm a pessimist and will recommend you source a used exhaust to core out incase testing comes to your area.
With careful shopping, a basic tuner, gauge set up and spare exhaust will still be less than the H&S alone.
It all depends on what you want to do.

parafirediesel

Thanks for the reply, the way it was explained to me by DPF-R when I bought it was that the unit basically clears the error codes, and then continuously resets the counter so to speak on the DPF Regen. I did all this to not void my warranty as my dealer said he was cool with losing the DPF but not with any tuner that leaves a foot print. The unit does not clear the egr being unplugged, and it does not help my fuel enconomy any either. That being said I figured Id start with a good tuner and a true EGR stealth delete vs unplug. Next will be a FASS 150gph lift pump, then the injertor pump and injectors when/if they go bad. I already have a K&N air filter on it. Basically just really looking to maximize my fuel economy. Thanks again for the reply.