3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

6.7L mod that I bought

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Old 01-22-2009, 10:39 AM
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6.7L mod that I bought

Hey guys I already have an aFe mega cannon kit on my 08. I bought a new mod and it should be shipping in the next week. Thought I would pass it on to the rest of you guys just in case you are interested. I bought through a group buy. If anyone is interested I can forward you the guys info that is setting up the group buy.



Old 01-23-2009, 12:27 AM
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Those Dyno graphs are such a crock.
Old 01-30-2009, 06:03 PM
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Well I finally recieved the part. Guess they were on backorder. I installed the part and I can really tell a difference in the bottom end. I cant tell anything at the top end. As for mpgs I only have 100 miles on it right now so I cant say that it increased just yet.
Old 01-30-2009, 06:05 PM
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I found this on ebay if anyone is interested.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/46-20...Q5fAccessories
Old 01-31-2009, 11:14 AM
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Looks like the 6.7 guys could just bend up a piece of 3" exhaust and paint for well under $30
Old 01-31-2009, 11:45 AM
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Trust me I thought about it. After doing the research it was about 175.00 for all the parts not including powdercoating and a bead roll. Yeah I could have compromised and bought the cheaper couplings but I dont want to go cheaper than stock. The tube is tight in there but under high boost couplings have there way of blowing off. Trust me when I had a ford back in the day I was towing up the bishop grade and the factory coupling blew off. It was not fun trying to get that thing back on in the middle of the night.
The material was aluminized not stainless. I would rather just buy it and install it instead of messing around with it.

The factory coupling on the plastic tube has a permanent band that needs to be cut. There is a good chance the coupling will be sliced when trying to tear it apart.
Old 01-31-2009, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 08sixseven
Trust me I thought about it. After doing the research it was about 175.00 for all the parts not including powdercoating and a bead roll. Yeah I could have compromised and bought the cheaper couplings but I dont want to go cheaper than stock. The tube is tight in there but under high boost couplings have there way of blowing off. Trust me when I had a ford back in the day I was towing up the bishop grade and the factory coupling blew off. It was not fun trying to get that thing back on in the middle of the night.
The material was aluminized not stainless. I would rather just buy it and install it instead of messing around with it.

The factory coupling on the plastic tube has a permanent band that needs to be cut. There is a good chance the coupling will be sliced when trying to tear it apart.
Fords are notorious for blowing boots and boost tubes.

You should have bought a cold air intake for the boost tube to give any real benifit.
Old 01-31-2009, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by chrleb1
Those Dyno graphs are such a crock.

You just have to read the fine print. It's +20hp and +63tq @ 1750rpm. Not a peak increase. It probably didn't add anything to the actually peak it just adjusted the power curve a little. That's how they get you. Strategic marketing.
Old 01-31-2009, 02:17 PM
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Yeah I know its not peak but I notice a significant increase on the bottom end. I already have an aFe mega cannon on my truck.

And yes fords are notorious for blowing off hoses. If stock has it then there is a reason why they put it there. I dont want to be stuck on the side of the road again.
Old 01-31-2009, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by t-boe
You just have to read the fine print. It's +20hp and +63tq @ 1750rpm. Not a peak increase. It probably didn't add anything to the actually peak it just adjusted the power curve a little. That's how they get you. Strategic marketing.
I see the fine print. But to have true back to back comparison, you need to start each run as close to the same rpm as possible. If you start a run at 2,000 and then another at 1,600, well at 2,100 rpm you are going to have crazy different numbers.

On that graph they have one start at 1,350 and another at 1,600. Of course you are going to make more torque and hp from the run that starts at 1,350, especially when you are taking your reading at 1,750.
Old 01-31-2009, 04:00 PM
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I have dynoed some of my hot rods and diesel trucks in the past. I have used a mustang dyno the same one afe used. They set a certain speed range in the specific test gear. They then test both parts. I would consider that an apples to apples comparison. The shift in the curve is the increase in power the part makes.
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