Yet ANOTHER Stack Question!....Sorry!
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
D. - if it was my truck, I would keep the Y under the bed and run the stacks straight through to the desired height.
Everything should be stainless steel, 304 or better (no 400 series)
No jet-coating or wrap required.
With a 1" annular space, a 5" exhaust will get you 7" stacks.
The insulated doublewall will absolutely eliminate drone.
It's possible to double-wall the Y, but prohibitively expensive for the average Joe.
If you are set on flappers, use high-temp gaskets to deaden the sound - they should be internal for aesthetics.
BTW - if you wanted to go high-tech, you could run a smoke-eater in the stacks' outlet to clean up the smoke - but I wouldn't recommend it.
Everything should be stainless steel, 304 or better (no 400 series)
No jet-coating or wrap required.
With a 1" annular space, a 5" exhaust will get you 7" stacks.
The insulated doublewall will absolutely eliminate drone.
It's possible to double-wall the Y, but prohibitively expensive for the average Joe.
If you are set on flappers, use high-temp gaskets to deaden the sound - they should be internal for aesthetics.
BTW - if you wanted to go high-tech, you could run a smoke-eater in the stacks' outlet to clean up the smoke - but I wouldn't recommend it.
I am actually doing the jet coating because it is the only way that I can make the stacks black as powdercoating will not hold up to the high temps of exhausts. Why would you recommend against somke-eaters? I can't say I have ever heard of them. What would you insulate the 1" gap between the 5" actual stack and 7" 'show stack' with?
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I tow a white job trailer for work sometimes and if I drive more than 50 miles on STOCK settings the trailer will be black. It is a PAIN to get off. A pressure washer simply doesn't get the job done. You gotta scrub it. That is one of the only downsides to stacks...
If I pulled anything of value with my truck I would take the stacks off.
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On a gloss black trailer it turns it dull black. It probably wouldn't be that extremely noticeable. The main thing that bugs me is when your taking the trailer on/off. Touching the trailer etc.... your hands get FILTHY black.
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AAAAhhhh yes. That definitely would be a bad thing! I wonder if wrapping the front of the trailer in Mylar like I did my whole truck, would make it such that the black exhaust would spray off easily.
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta
My 5th wheel is black after towing, even without stacks, it is going to be a problem no matter where the exhaust comes out in my opinion. Im trying to find a good product that will remove the soot. seeing as I aint going to get rid of the truck, lol.
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From: Pattonville, Texas
I am actually doing the jet coating because it is the only way that I can make the stacks black as powdercoating will not hold up to the high temps of exhausts. Why would you recommend against somke-eaters? I can't say I have ever heard of them. What would you insulate the 1" gap between the 5" actual stack and 7" 'show stack' with?
I forgot you like everything Back-N-Black...
Jet won't hurt, just not req'd for performance.
Insulate the annular space with either ceramic fiber blanket, mineral wool or hi-temp fiberglass (no Pink Panther!
) Try for a light density, around 2#/cubic foot would be fine.Make sure whoever fabricates the stacks understands the thermodynamics involved - or you'll end up with hot "show" stacks.
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Silly me!
I forgot you like everything Back-N-Black...
Jet won't hurt, just not req'd for performance.
Insulate the annular space with either ceramic fiber blanket, mineral wool or hi-temp fiberglass (no Pink Panther! ) Try for a light density, around 2#/cubic foot would be fine.
Make sure whoever fabricates the stacks understands the thermodynamics involved - or you'll end up with hot "show" stacks.
I forgot you like everything Back-N-Black...
Jet won't hurt, just not req'd for performance.
Insulate the annular space with either ceramic fiber blanket, mineral wool or hi-temp fiberglass (no Pink Panther!
) Try for a light density, around 2#/cubic foot would be fine.Make sure whoever fabricates the stacks understands the thermodynamics involved - or you'll end up with hot "show" stacks.
Oh yes, back in black! I think that the key for protecting ANY trailer is that 3M Mylar wrap. It is truly AMAZING at protecting the truck and would imagine it would prevent the soot from finding a porous surface in which to cling; and instead make it easy to "hose off" the blackness.J Double: OH YES. Ever since I put on the Smarty, it doesn't matter what anything else is set to, she is a SMOKE STACK!
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From: Pollock Pines, CA
Ive got the perfect solution to the fuel cell problem...
Hood Stack!!!
I dont have stacks since they take up too much realstate in my short bed and since you also want a fuel cell and stacks on a short bed....
If I were you I just get a full with fuel cell and keep you exhaust the way it is now... A touble free fuel cell would be more important to me then stacks... But thats just me
Hood Stack!!!
I dont have stacks since they take up too much realstate in my short bed and since you also want a fuel cell and stacks on a short bed....
If I were you I just get a full with fuel cell and keep you exhaust the way it is now... A touble free fuel cell would be more important to me then stacks... But thats just me
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
Ive got the perfect solution to the fuel cell problem...
Hood Stack!!!
I dont have stacks since they take up too much realstate in my short bed and since you also want a fuel cell and stacks on a short bed....
If I were you I just get a full with fuel cell and keep you exhaust the way it is now... A touble free fuel cell would be more important to me then stacks... But thats just me
Hood Stack!!!
I dont have stacks since they take up too much realstate in my short bed and since you also want a fuel cell and stacks on a short bed....
If I were you I just get a full with fuel cell and keep you exhaust the way it is now... A touble free fuel cell would be more important to me then stacks... But thats just me
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From: Pattonville, Texas
D. - don't give up bed space for the Y of the stacks; keep them under-bed and just run the 7" verticals straight through the floor. That way the tank/box is easier to build with a cylindrical relief in it... I thought you already had that set.
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
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From: Nashville, TN
Ive thought about doing something similar myself as i really want stacks. Its just that a custom tool box like that would be so expensive.