Yet ANOTHER Stack Question!....Sorry!
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
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As long as you get a straight through muffler you won't have any problems with EGT's no matter how big or small you go. You could do 4" exhaust with a 4" straight through muffler and you won't notice the difference. I used to run a muffler once upon a time and then I removed it and there wasn't any difference in spool up or EGT's. Just noise.
And yes, I suggest NOT doing anything bigger than 6". Just looks unproportional.
And yes, I suggest NOT doing anything bigger than 6". Just looks unproportional.
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From: Pattonville, Texas
DWiggs - your situation is unique.
You want best performance, best aesthetics, best sound, lowest maintenance and safest operation.
No flappers - like BB said they'll clack you right out of the truck: just drill a small hole(s) at the low point of the exhaust for a drain.
Go with a 4" or 5" inner diameter system to keep exhaust velocity high since you drive so much on the street.
Use a double-wall from the bed floor up. This would allow you to insulate the annular space with high-temperature ceramic fiber or mineral wool insulation and keep the fuel tank from soaking up the heat. Also, the outside diameter could be a big as you'd like for that special look that flips your Wigg.
Obviously, everything must be fabbed out of SS...
p.s. one inch of space between the walls would be ideal
You want best performance, best aesthetics, best sound, lowest maintenance and safest operation.
No flappers - like BB said they'll clack you right out of the truck: just drill a small hole(s) at the low point of the exhaust for a drain.
Go with a 4" or 5" inner diameter system to keep exhaust velocity high since you drive so much on the street.
Use a double-wall from the bed floor up. This would allow you to insulate the annular space with high-temperature ceramic fiber or mineral wool insulation and keep the fuel tank from soaking up the heat. Also, the outside diameter could be a big as you'd like for that special look that flips your Wigg.
Obviously, everything must be fabbed out of SS...
p.s. one inch of space between the walls would be ideal
Thread Starter
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
DWiggs - your situation is unique.
You want best performance, best aesthetics, best sound, lowest maintenance and safest operation.
No flappers - like BB said they'll clack you right out of the truck: just drill a small hole(s) at the low point of the exhaust for a drain.
Go with a 4" or 5" inner diameter system to keep exhaust velocity high since you drive so much on the street.
Use a double-wall from the bed floor up. This would allow you to insulate the annular space with high-temperature ceramic fiber or mineral wool insulation and keep the fuel tank from soaking up the heat. Also, the outside diameter could be a big as you'd like for that special look that flips your Wigg.
Obviously, everything must be fabbed out of SS...
p.s. one inch of space between the walls would be ideal
You want best performance, best aesthetics, best sound, lowest maintenance and safest operation.
No flappers - like BB said they'll clack you right out of the truck: just drill a small hole(s) at the low point of the exhaust for a drain.
Go with a 4" or 5" inner diameter system to keep exhaust velocity high since you drive so much on the street.
Use a double-wall from the bed floor up. This would allow you to insulate the annular space with high-temperature ceramic fiber or mineral wool insulation and keep the fuel tank from soaking up the heat. Also, the outside diameter could be a big as you'd like for that special look that flips your Wigg.
Obviously, everything must be fabbed out of SS...
p.s. one inch of space between the walls would be ideal
I think you hit the nail on the head, but like you pointed out, I don't want much !
Are you saying have two pipes, one that is the actual exhaust and one that shields the actual exhaist from anything it comes in contact with ?
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
Ingenius! Would the two pipe solution start at the Y or only on the vertical part of the stacks? Should I jet coat both of them and header wrap the inside stack in addition? How much would a muffler reduce noise if I did 5" from the turbo back and then 5" actual stacks with 6" 'stack covers' do you think?
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From: Pittsburgh, Pa. & Columbus, OH.
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Ingenius! Would the two pipe solution start at the Y or only on the vertical part of the stacks? Should I jet coat both of them and header wrap the inside stack in addition? How much would a muffler reduce noise if I did 5" from the turbo back and then 5" actual stacks with 6" 'stack covers' do you think?
Hard to say on the muffler cause that's a personal preference kinda thing. Do a search on here for mufflers and you should be able to get an idea on what you need to run.
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From: Western Ky.
I have been contimplating 6" mitred stacks but, the drone of the 4" straight is bad enough as it is. No cat, no muffler, std. cab, stacks 
! About 8" behind your head. I don't know about it, I average 350-400 miles per week.
! About 8" behind your head. I don't know about it, I average 350-400 miles per week.
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From: Derry, NH
heres a link to a thread of a truck with header wrap around the Y-Pipe for ya..https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ks+header+wrap
I know theres a couple of other photos of a wrapped y pipe that looks real good all wrapped up. Cant find it at the moment.
I know theres a couple of other photos of a wrapped y pipe that looks real good all wrapped up. Cant find it at the moment.
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From: nc
DWiggs - your situation is unique.
You want best performance, best aesthetics, best sound, lowest maintenance and safest operation.
No flappers - like BB said they'll clack you right out of the truck: just drill a small hole(s) at the low point of the exhaust for a drain.
Go with a 4" or 5" inner diameter system to keep exhaust velocity high since you drive so much on the street.
Use a double-wall from the bed floor up. This would allow you to insulate the annular space with high-temperature ceramic fiber or mineral wool insulation and keep the fuel tank from soaking up the heat. Also, the outside diameter could be a big as you'd like for that special look that flips your Wigg.
Obviously, everything must be fabbed out of SS...
p.s. one inch of space between the walls would be ideal
You want best performance, best aesthetics, best sound, lowest maintenance and safest operation.
No flappers - like BB said they'll clack you right out of the truck: just drill a small hole(s) at the low point of the exhaust for a drain.
Go with a 4" or 5" inner diameter system to keep exhaust velocity high since you drive so much on the street.
Use a double-wall from the bed floor up. This would allow you to insulate the annular space with high-temperature ceramic fiber or mineral wool insulation and keep the fuel tank from soaking up the heat. Also, the outside diameter could be a big as you'd like for that special look that flips your Wigg.
Obviously, everything must be fabbed out of SS...
p.s. one inch of space between the walls would be ideal
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From: Pattonville, Texas
D. - if it was my truck, I would keep the Y under the bed and run the stacks straight through to the desired height.
Everything should be stainless steel, 304 or better (no 400 series)
No jet-coating or wrap required.
With a 1" annular space, a 5" exhaust will get you 7" stacks.
The insulated doublewall will absolutely eliminate drone.
It's possible to double-wall the Y, but prohibitively expensive for the average Joe.
If you are set on flappers, use high-temp gaskets to deaden the sound - they should be internal for aesthetics.
BTW - if you wanted to go high-tech, you could run a smoke-eater in the stacks' outlet to clean up the smoke - but I wouldn't recommend it.
Everything should be stainless steel, 304 or better (no 400 series)
No jet-coating or wrap required.
With a 1" annular space, a 5" exhaust will get you 7" stacks.
The insulated doublewall will absolutely eliminate drone.
It's possible to double-wall the Y, but prohibitively expensive for the average Joe.
If you are set on flappers, use high-temp gaskets to deaden the sound - they should be internal for aesthetics.
BTW - if you wanted to go high-tech, you could run a smoke-eater in the stacks' outlet to clean up the smoke - but I wouldn't recommend it.