Winterizing Confusion
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chicago, IL
Winterizing Confusion
Hello all. First, I've been on this site for a couple of weeks (since I got my new Dodge) and it is top-rate! Lot's of great discussion and everyone seems very helpful
With winter coming, I have some basic questions that are probably obvious to others:
1) my manual says that when it's below 68 degrees that I should start the vehicle, then press the gas until the engine until it revs to 1,000 rpm...then let it go back to idle. First why is this extra procedure needed in cooler weather? Second, do I need to let it idle for a few minutes at that 1,000, or should I let it go back to idle immediately?
2) at what temperature should I start using my block heater (it's being installed next week)?
3) what fuel additive should I be using in the winter, and when should I start using it? Will it work for #1 and #2 fuel, or should I make sure I use #1 (or a blend) in the winter?
Thank you for helping the new guy!
With winter coming, I have some basic questions that are probably obvious to others:
1) my manual says that when it's below 68 degrees that I should start the vehicle, then press the gas until the engine until it revs to 1,000 rpm...then let it go back to idle. First why is this extra procedure needed in cooler weather? Second, do I need to let it idle for a few minutes at that 1,000, or should I let it go back to idle immediately?
2) at what temperature should I start using my block heater (it's being installed next week)?
3) what fuel additive should I be using in the winter, and when should I start using it? Will it work for #1 and #2 fuel, or should I make sure I use #1 (or a blend) in the winter?
Thank you for helping the new guy!
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,988
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From: Nebraska
It would be more helpful if you filled out your signature so we know what part of the country you are in. Winter in So Cal is not the same winter as Alaska.
1. You are reving the engine to generate heat and move the oil. At idle there is very little heat generated. Hense if your engine is hot let it idle. If you have been on the freeway pulling a load for a while and stop for fill up, let it idle for 3-5 mins before you shut it off. If not you will "coke" (cook) the oil in the turbo into a black sludge. (not good) Running up the idle has the opposit effect. It will warm up the pistons, cylinders, and oil, alittle. Personally, I don't worry about it at all, never have. I let it idle for a few mins, and go.
2. Below 40F for me and its plugged in all night. A lot of guys never bother, but again its personal preference. I like the idea of having the 15-40w heated up and ready to move.
3. I use Power Service (white bottle) in every tank all year round. Most fuel is blended to match the climate, but I add the PS to increase lubricity and cetane rating. I'm on my original VP-44 with 180K miles. Enough said.
Welcome to DTR!
GUYS! No flaming about "pressing on the gas" that is too easy!
Scsulfri, It's a throttle now, not a gas peddle.
FNG's.
1. You are reving the engine to generate heat and move the oil. At idle there is very little heat generated. Hense if your engine is hot let it idle. If you have been on the freeway pulling a load for a while and stop for fill up, let it idle for 3-5 mins before you shut it off. If not you will "coke" (cook) the oil in the turbo into a black sludge. (not good) Running up the idle has the opposit effect. It will warm up the pistons, cylinders, and oil, alittle. Personally, I don't worry about it at all, never have. I let it idle for a few mins, and go.
2. Below 40F for me and its plugged in all night. A lot of guys never bother, but again its personal preference. I like the idea of having the 15-40w heated up and ready to move.
3. I use Power Service (white bottle) in every tank all year round. Most fuel is blended to match the climate, but I add the PS to increase lubricity and cetane rating. I'm on my original VP-44 with 180K miles. Enough said.
Welcome to DTR!
GUYS! No flaming about "pressing on the gas" that is too easy!
Scsulfri, It's a throttle now, not a gas peddle.
FNG's.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,309
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From: Smithfield, VA
Hey! We were all FNG's once. Shucks I still make FNG mistakes and i have been around since Moby Dick was a minnow. 
Well maybe not in this forum, but i've been around, really I have. 
Remember wooden ships and iron men? I spent three days in Chicago one night. 
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,988
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From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by Boatnik
Hey! We were all FNG's once.Welcome Scsulfri you have been offically FLAMED!
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Swisher, IA
scsulfri-
If you plan on using your block heater and don't want to leave it on all night, you can pick up a indoor/outdoor timer from Menards that supports the wattage rating of the block heater. I have mine scheduled to kick on about 2 hours before I leave for work.
You shouldn't need #1 diesel living in Chicago. I wouldn't run #1 unless it was absolutely necessary. #1 diesel lacks the lubricating properties of #2 (hard on the pumps). Also, most fuel stations switch to winter blend diesel in the fall (the ones be me do), which is usually a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2. Check with the places you fuel at to be sure.
There are lots of additives out there and most do a pretty good job of preventing gel problems. I use a Fleetguard #CC2592 winter conditioner. It runs about $11 from my local Cummins shop and it treats 250 gals. I have an old Mt Dew bottle that I measured out approximately how much is needed for my tank. I can get through the winter with 2 bottles of the conditioner, but that of course depends on how much driving you do.
-Muzzy
If you plan on using your block heater and don't want to leave it on all night, you can pick up a indoor/outdoor timer from Menards that supports the wattage rating of the block heater. I have mine scheduled to kick on about 2 hours before I leave for work.
You shouldn't need #1 diesel living in Chicago. I wouldn't run #1 unless it was absolutely necessary. #1 diesel lacks the lubricating properties of #2 (hard on the pumps). Also, most fuel stations switch to winter blend diesel in the fall (the ones be me do), which is usually a 50/50 mix of #1 and #2. Check with the places you fuel at to be sure.
There are lots of additives out there and most do a pretty good job of preventing gel problems. I use a Fleetguard #CC2592 winter conditioner. It runs about $11 from my local Cummins shop and it treats 250 gals. I have an old Mt Dew bottle that I measured out approximately how much is needed for my tank. I can get through the winter with 2 bottles of the conditioner, but that of course depends on how much driving you do.
-Muzzy
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From: Chicago, IL
Thank you Muzzy...great idea on the timer...hadn't thought of that.
And thank you Geico for the Flame job...I feel the love already and really enjoy this board. I check it more often than I study...wonder if there is a link to my grades....nah.
And thank you Geico for the Flame job...I feel the love already and really enjoy this board. I check it more often than I study...wonder if there is a link to my grades....nah.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 74
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From: Downtown Chartley MA
scsulfri,
Don't forget to check out a winter front. Mopar makes the best one IMHO. About $100 if I remember right. Helps keep the cold from the engine and make it warm up faster.
I don't worry about additives as the fuel will be blended by the refinery in the winter. Also, the Cummins takes a small bit of the fuel and returns it to the tank nicely warmed all the time. I have never had a gel problem even with the outside temp well into the negative numbers.
If you have an 05, it should have an automatic high idle. Start the truck and if the temp is cold enough, like around 20 or so, after two minutes the truck will idle up to about 1000 rpm. Step on the brake or put it into gear and it will idle down. Nice feature. Oh, I think this is on automatic equipped trucks only. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Steve
Don't forget to check out a winter front. Mopar makes the best one IMHO. About $100 if I remember right. Helps keep the cold from the engine and make it warm up faster.
I don't worry about additives as the fuel will be blended by the refinery in the winter. Also, the Cummins takes a small bit of the fuel and returns it to the tank nicely warmed all the time. I have never had a gel problem even with the outside temp well into the negative numbers.
If you have an 05, it should have an automatic high idle. Start the truck and if the temp is cold enough, like around 20 or so, after two minutes the truck will idle up to about 1000 rpm. Step on the brake or put it into gear and it will idle down. Nice feature. Oh, I think this is on automatic equipped trucks only. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Steve
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bucks county PA
heres my $0.02 if your running 15-40 you shouldnt start your truck if the oil temp is below 10 degrees F. so I plug the block heater in at 20 and if the block heater is pluged in ill start the truck down to 0degrees F at 0 the oil pan still reads around 14 so i figure its safe. Below that i use a magnetic heater on the pan. I leave my block heater pluged in all ngiht because im lazy eeven though it costs quite a bit more money in electric. Now if you run 5-40 you can start your truck down to -20 degrees. Since i cant plug my truck in at work anymore i have 5-40 to put in this decemember when it gets cold. I always run white bottle of power service. Havnt had any gel issues yet. And below 60 some degrees the heating grid turns on and cycles for 3min. you can drive but if you go over 18mph the grid shuts off and i dont know the effects of driving without a fully warmed up motor.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Tn
Originally Posted by BNH4221
scsulfri,
Don't forget to check out a winter front. Mopar makes the best one IMHO. About $100 if I remember right. Helps keep the cold from the engine and make it warm up faster.
I don't worry about additives as the fuel will be blended by the refinery in the winter. Also, the Cummins takes a small bit of the fuel and returns it to the tank nicely warmed all the time. I have never had a gel problem even with the outside temp well into the negative numbers.
If you have an 05, it should have an automatic high idle. Start the truck and if the temp is cold enough, like around 20 or so, after two minutes the truck will idle up to about 1000 rpm. Step on the brake or put it into gear and it will idle down. Nice feature. Oh, I think this is on automatic equipped trucks only. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Steve
Don't forget to check out a winter front. Mopar makes the best one IMHO. About $100 if I remember right. Helps keep the cold from the engine and make it warm up faster.
I don't worry about additives as the fuel will be blended by the refinery in the winter. Also, the Cummins takes a small bit of the fuel and returns it to the tank nicely warmed all the time. I have never had a gel problem even with the outside temp well into the negative numbers.
If you have an 05, it should have an automatic high idle. Start the truck and if the temp is cold enough, like around 20 or so, after two minutes the truck will idle up to about 1000 rpm. Step on the brake or put it into gear and it will idle down. Nice feature. Oh, I think this is on automatic equipped trucks only. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Steve
LCH
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: virginia
i agree
Originally Posted by Captain
heres my $0.02 if your running 15-40 you shouldnt start your truck if the oil temp is below 10 degrees F. so I plug the block heater in at 20 and if the block heater is pluged in ill start the truck down to 0degrees F at 0 the oil pan still reads around 14 so i figure its safe. Below that i use a magnetic heater on the pan. I leave my block heater pluged in all ngiht because im lazy eeven though it costs quite a bit more money in electric. Now if you run 5-40 you can start your truck down to -20 degrees. Since i cant plug my truck in at work anymore i have 5-40 to put in this decemember when it gets cold. I always run white bottle of power service. Havnt had any gel issues yet. And below 60 some degrees the heating grid turns on and cycles for 3min. you can drive but if you go over 18mph the grid shuts off and i dont know the effects of driving without a fully warmed up motor.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,696
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From: Maritimes, Canada
Guys, I run 5w40 synthetic all year and use Standyne all year. Gets to -40 here a couple days a year and -20 for about two weeks, - teens to 0 alot. I have a block heater and a cord but I've never plugged it in and it has always started and run smooth. I use the ice scraper manual high idle feature. 
The only thing that runs cold when getting in is my hemmoroids when I forget to turn the seat heaters on. Welcome to the dark side. ks
The only thing that runs cold when getting in is my hemmoroids when I forget to turn the seat heaters on. Welcome to the dark side. ks
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