newatitdiesel

After reading for months now...I've made some changes from stock, however, I really don't know where to go from here. I use my truck in the mining industry..off road/surveying...always carring at least 1500 lb +/-. I desire alittle better performance and better mileage. I read about 24 mpg, is that real? I hand calculate 11-13 mpg in and out of 4x4, slow go, misc work conditions...on the interstate I've gotten 17.8.

I have removed silencer ring and open the stock exhaust to a straight pipe. I recently read a post saying those two things alone probable took away 2 mpg...so I put the ring back in and I now desire an exhaust system(mid-range a little to loud) does that make since??

This past weekend I installed a Banks larger wastegate and Banks intercooler on my 04(early 04 211,xxx miles)...after reading post tonight, I think I understand that my stock turbo probable doesn't need the waste gate and I could have clamped off the small hose?

I've been reading about turbo pressures...tempature...I'm a good parts exchanger, but most of this is outside my knowledge. Can someone give me some good direction on understanding diesel basics...what are the stock pressures, temps, etc...I guess I need some guages, but I read different opions on where to put the sensors....help? thanks in advance!!!

Shank

Fill out our sig so we know what you got. Everyone on this site is very helpful!

rip 112

Ok, the Banks wastegate is not a bad thing, it has a stronger spring and adjustable rod, its just the costlier of the options.

Your hand calculated mileage sounds on par with what you're using your truck for. And if that is payload (in bed loads) that is some weight to consider. The overhead will always pump your head up.

IMo I would consider a few things that are important to open this truck up.

1. I would consider a he351 turbo off of a newer 04.5-07 5.9. It is a little larger than the 03-04 he341 and still retain good spoolup with better cooling. And its a relatively cheap mod when compared to the performance oriented turbos.

2. Fuel system. If you haven't had the in-tank lift pump kit installed and still have your fuel canister mounted lift pump I would consider something with better filtration and supply, like an Airdog, Fass, GDP, or BD lift pump kits. The Airdog particularly has a lifetime warranty at a decent price. The HPCR trucks like ours are much more sensitive to fuel quality, this is very important.

3. A decent programmer. Sounds like you would be suited well with a Smarty Jr, mainly because it adds a safe amount of power (sw1) and with good driving habits will net you better mileage and better egts, all beneficial for making your truck last.

4. Yes gauges are Very important. I would get pyro, boost, fuel pressure, and trans temp if you have an auto.

This is a good recipe to bring out better mileage and give you more power that won't kill your tranny.

soulezoo

Yeah, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but yes, your Banks purchases were not worth what you put into it. But that is ok, you came to the right place to learn. If it makes you feel better, I bought banks stuff too when I first started... they do have pretty ads.

The banks big head is worthless. You can do the same thing with a "boost elbow" they are sold at Genos for about $20 or you can make our own by drilling and tapping the existing brass elbow that comes out of the turbo housing that your wastegate bellows hose is attached to. The set screw costs about fifteen cents and you set it to the boost desired, or you can just pinch off the hose as well. The intercooler does nothing the stock doesn't do until you are over 500 HP or so. (The air to support that HP is the key). A newer turbo would have been a much better investment. The top boost you ever want to see from that stock turbo you have is about 32 psi. Above that is out of its efficiency range.

With your truck, 20+mpg should be fairly easy to get to. The first thing you can do that is fairly cheap is get something like an Airaid or Amsoil drop in filter. Avoid K&N. A good power/economy module for you is a smarty jr.

The silencer ring would have no effect on mileage or anything; the straight pipe should not either. There are a number of things you can do from here, the cheapest would be a donaldson or nelson muffler.

That is a start, others will fill in more that I didn't.. welcome to DTR.

Fill out your sig with what you have so folks can properly help you.

soulezoo

Rick, you beat me...

rip 112

Yea, but you remembered to mention the silencer ring... I totally forgot. And you gave him sound advice on avoiding K&N.

Avoid K&N, just so you know.

newatitdiesel

After reading as long as I have, I should have posted prior to purchasing. Well...I'll pull my hat over my donkey ears, eat alittle more pride, and live and do better from here. Thanks for the advise...

I was reading about the turbo change tonight...changing to a he351..I'll investigate...do I leave the wastegate with the he351? The pressures I'm reading about...is that the auctual air pressure the turbo is producing or is that what is going into the intake? How do I know the "correct" air/fuel pressures?

Fuel System: I know very little about this...I am assuming the truck is totally stock..I bought it at 175K (1st diesel). I see the "Air Dog" name...I will investigate....What is meant by HPCR truck....sensitive to fuel quality...will a system make in more sensitive...I don't think I want it more sensitive??? I work around alot of heavy equipment.

Smarty Jr: I was looking for advise on a programmer...I'll investigate..

Guages: I understand the recommended.....do you recommend a brand? electronic or ???

Why stay away from K&N...

dslpwr81

HPCR.... High Pressure Common Rail.... Your fuel system
Smarty Jr..... Programmer.... Awesome.... Good power for what you want.
Gauges.... Autometer.... My favorite
K&N.... Most claim, including myself, it allows too much silica or dirt through your intake. Bad for turbo, etc,...


Jason

rip 112

The he351 is a direct replacement, it will need a resistor to work since its wastegate is electronically controlled. No problem at all.

The boost pressure is usually measured at the intake so there will be a 1-2psi fluctuation between the line. You can get a better idiea of your turbine pressure by putting a drive pressure gauge in, but its not necessary til you want to get alot of power.

Fuel setup, you need to look under the hood where the fuel canister is and see if there is a fuel pump located behind the canister. If so, it is a weak link and prone to fail. But considering your mileage it may have already had the retrofit intank pump installed. If so, it will be good to go, and you won't see a pump under hood. HPCR means "high pressure common rail". The cp3 injection pump puts out around up to 26,500 psi of pressure to the injectors. This is the reason fuel filtering is so crucial, the dirtier the fuel, the more abrasive it will be to your injector in whole. So the need for a better filter setup and or fuel pump is needed. If you have the intank pump, you can just get a filter base and housing and plumb it in to the fuel line and mount it on the fram somewheres.

Gauges I would look at Isspro or Autometer, good brands, pretty reliable and good price. Only one place I would look for a kit. This place has kits ready with all needed parts to do it yourself or at least be prepared.

http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu._ihV...com/gauges.asp

And lastly, the K&N filter has been known to let dirt and oil pass through into the intake tube, which can be potentially damaging to a turbo in the long run. I would stress looking at Amsoil or AFE, S&B, or the ****** Whistler (search this for info, a very nice read and writeup).

rip 112

Someone beats me for once!!! lol

newatitdiesel

I'll get to work...soulezoo referenced 32 psi top boost (stock turbo), what would raise/lower this??? programmer???

any negatives to silencer ring MIA...like that whistle!!!

I quickly reference DTR store...Fuel Systems...how do i know which one I need??

rip 112

That wastegate actuator you got would, you just need to adjust it. Need a boost gauge though to see what you're putting out now though. With your turbo, soulezoo was stating you Do Not want to exceed 32psi, the he341 becomes ineffecient and is just generating too much hot air by then.

The silencer ring will not net you or lose you anything, the ring was put there to keep inside noises to a minimum. take it out and enjoy a little whistling.

Fuel system you need to take a look at them, and then do a search and read up. You want air and water separation IMO, and at least 3micron filtration or less. If it were me I would just be getting a AD100 (Airdog). I would call Lary Ellis here at the DTR store and get something set up. Super cool guy, and what you buy through dtr helps dtr.

dslpwr81

Ha Ha. I finally beat Someone for once!!!

newatitdiesel

I'll read up on the AD100.
Rick, on your signature..what does /555 in 5600, HTT 62/71-13ss, SBC Con OFE..mean?
also I noticed you have a Smarty/MP-8..some of the programmers have instrumentation with them...would you invest in guages or a pod that reports???

dslpwr81

305 Horse 555 Torque. NV5600 man tranny. HTT Turbo Brand and the size of it. SBC.. South Bend Cluch. Smarty/MP-8 Stacked, read up on the MP8.... and yes you should invest in gauges. Sorry RIP. I swear I'm done.