what wire or fuse for 2006 Turbo Timer?
If you go to BD-Power.com, then download the manual for their CoolDown Timer, it should get you a couple of fairly detailed diagrams and instructions. Don't know what timer you have but you'll probably have to convert wire colors to match your rig.
I was going to cut and paste but thought you'd have a better result downloading the entire 15 page manual for yourself.
My timer wasn't too bad an install and I really like how it works.
Let me know if I can help.
Dan
I was going to cut and paste but thought you'd have a better result downloading the entire 15 page manual for yourself.
My timer wasn't too bad an install and I really like how it works.
Let me know if I can help.
Dan
Dan, thanks.
the wire on BD's site is Fuse #28, "run"
provides power to ECM on Pink/Gray wire,
Pin 32 of Connector C2 on the actual ECM
they connect it on the ECM, but they don't put in a diode to prevent power flowing back up.
i just hit the back of fuse #28 on the Fuse Box.
reason ask is this:
left mine running for 5 minutes other day on the timer,
ran in post office, and back out, was still running on timer.
put in key in, and it popped a code.
i can't live with this truck popping codes, so asked the question about where everyone is hooking up.
I don't understand why it would pop a code.
2006 Dodge body builder PDF 8W-13-13 shows most of this.
the wire on BD's site is Fuse #28, "run"
provides power to ECM on Pink/Gray wire,
Pin 32 of Connector C2 on the actual ECM
they connect it on the ECM, but they don't put in a diode to prevent power flowing back up.
i just hit the back of fuse #28 on the Fuse Box.
reason ask is this:
left mine running for 5 minutes other day on the timer,
ran in post office, and back out, was still running on timer.
put in key in, and it popped a code.
i can't live with this truck popping codes, so asked the question about where everyone is hooking up.
I don't understand why it would pop a code.
2006 Dodge body builder PDF 8W-13-13 shows most of this.
I've not had a single CEL since installing the timer. I just don't have an answer for you.
I will add this however, FWIW. I talked to a BD tech about using the fuse 28 location to connect the wire because it was easier access. He said I shouldn't. He said the engineers specified connecting at the ECM pin 32 so that's what I did. It didn't make a lot of sense to me but I followed directions.
Dan
I will add this however, FWIW. I talked to a BD tech about using the fuse 28 location to connect the wire because it was easier access. He said I shouldn't. He said the engineers specified connecting at the ECM pin 32 so that's what I did. It didn't make a lot of sense to me but I followed directions.
Dan
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There are a couple of things that could happen. I did not research what you did or did not supply power to but, in general I will give you some ideas.
1.) You did not supply the right power wire and the fuel pump was not running causing an issue.
2.) The wrong wire will keep the truck running but, not keep all the 5v references alive. Doing this will make it think the MAP sensor is bad.
3.) I have seen fan codes as well, can'e remember the exact scenario but, you can set that code as well.
1.) You did not supply the right power wire and the fuel pump was not running causing an issue.
2.) The wrong wire will keep the truck running but, not keep all the 5v references alive. Doing this will make it think the MAP sensor is bad.
3.) I have seen fan codes as well, can'e remember the exact scenario but, you can set that code as well.
Quad's correct (of course....)
the Fuse 28 location (Pin 32 of ECM) does not provide a run voltage to the lift pump, the Injection pump just sucks thru it.
I found the Lift Pump power wire on TIPM, and put a diode in my supply wire from the Turbo Timer, (to keep the circuits separate)
and now I power the ECM and the Lift Pump outputs out of the TIPM
Dan, you should cycle your key, set the brake, and see if your lift pump clicks.
then turn the key OFF, and the timer should go into "run" mode and keep power to the ECM, and you should hear the pump still clicking along.
the Fuse 28 location (Pin 32 of ECM) does not provide a run voltage to the lift pump, the Injection pump just sucks thru it.
I found the Lift Pump power wire on TIPM, and put a diode in my supply wire from the Turbo Timer, (to keep the circuits separate)
and now I power the ECM and the Lift Pump outputs out of the TIPM
Dan, you should cycle your key, set the brake, and see if your lift pump clicks.
then turn the key OFF, and the timer should go into "run" mode and keep power to the ECM, and you should hear the pump still clicking along.
another item of interest is Fuse 28 supplies the signal to the Remote keyless module, so you SHOULD hit the ECM, and put in a diode, and then you WILL be able to lock the doors with the remote while the truck is running on timer.
I read your most recent post and was scratching my head wondering what I missed. My doors lock fine with the timer running without a diode and the timer works fine also. The only issue I've had is that depressing the brake doesn't consistently shut the timer down. I think I may have a poor connection on that part of the circuit.
Dan
Dan
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