what clutch for slightly modded 03?
12-05-2006, 01:07 PM
#16
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I recently had a LUK cerametallic installed in my truck. It is comparable to the SBC FE clutch. It even behaves the same as what I have heard described on the forums, except the peddle pressure is less than stock. It does not effect the holding power of the clutch. I haven’t had it long enough to thoroughly evaluate it but so far I am very pleased. My stock clutch was slip when Smarty was on #3, but I have had Smarty up to #7 and there is no sign of slipping.
I shopped the Internet for different clutch and the best price I could find was the LUK cerametallic at Rye Valley Gear. I ordered it from them and it was shipped directly from LUK. They only offered the organic and the metallic clutch plates. I found that Carolina Clutch offers a LUK plate that is one side organic and the other metallic, comparable to the SBC OFE. It was more money so I opted for the Rye Valley deal.
I had an independent transmission mechanic install the clutch. I called several places before I settled on the one I used. Of the shops I talked to most recommend the LUK clutch. I did not tell them what clutch I had. One guy wanted to sell me a clutch and install for $1500, but he would install a clutch for $400. I didn’t use him, but I ended up paying a little over $700 for clutch and install when purchased separately.
I shopped the Internet for different clutch and the best price I could find was the LUK cerametallic at Rye Valley Gear. I ordered it from them and it was shipped directly from LUK. They only offered the organic and the metallic clutch plates. I found that Carolina Clutch offers a LUK plate that is one side organic and the other metallic, comparable to the SBC OFE. It was more money so I opted for the Rye Valley deal.
I had an independent transmission mechanic install the clutch. I called several places before I settled on the one I used. Of the shops I talked to most recommend the LUK clutch. I did not tell them what clutch I had. One guy wanted to sell me a clutch and install for $1500, but he would install a clutch for $400. I didn’t use him, but I ended up paying a little over $700 for clutch and install when purchased separately.
12-06-2006, 12:02 AM
#18
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From what I understand the DD clutches require the hydraulic upgrade, but they last a whole lot longer and are much more streetable or smoother to operate I should say than the singles. The single is apparently pretty grabby and not the greatest for backing up a trailer. You would think it'd be the other way around but it's not.
12-06-2006, 10:50 AM
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I talked to the rep at southbend today (10 min ago) and he said for me to go with the con ofe because of the harder material in the fe. The truck won't make enough power to properly break in the clutch and it will slip all the time. Glaze maybe?? Thats with the current mods plus twins and flux 1's on the way. Will be towing a 18'+3' deckover also. He said it would just be to much clutch. You get the solid flywheel and clutch for about 1k and need the hydraulic upgrade for 250.
12-06-2006, 10:56 AM
#20
What rep did you talk to?
The OFE is rated at 450 hp, but I know it will hold more than that.
I would think you are in the ball park of 450 now, and with flux 1s and twins I would think you should be aproching the 550 mark with is what the FE is rated for.
The OFE is rated at 450 hp, but I know it will hold more than that.
I would think you are in the ball park of 450 now, and with flux 1s and twins I would think you should be aproching the 550 mark with is what the FE is rated for.
12-06-2006, 11:32 AM
#21
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well i have been driving my con ofe for 4 days now, and it is getting smoother each day. i can now get it into 2nd easily, sometimes i miss the 3-4 shift but being too quick with the clutch pedal, but that is my fault. reverse is still alittle sticky, BUT, it holds. thanks South Bend
12-06-2006, 05:37 PM
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That's true, I would definitley go with the FE on a single disk if you're going with twins and injectors. However when I was researching information on clutches for my truck a lot of people were telling me that I would be better off to go with the dual disk for longevity because apparently the power levels thrown at the single will wear it a lot quicker than the dual disk. That along with the fact the dd is easier and smoother to operate makes it a better choice.....at least from what I was told. But there's also price, which is another D word "double" at the least...
12-06-2006, 11:05 PM
#23
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i spoke at length with peter at south bend, what a guy!
a dual disk will also make noise while in neutral, for some the noise is an issue.
my ofe has smoothed out, holds great with my mods, and we'll see if it still holds when my smarty arrives.
a dual disk will also make noise while in neutral, for some the noise is an issue.
my ofe has smoothed out, holds great with my mods, and we'll see if it still holds when my smarty arrives.
12-07-2006, 06:33 AM
#24
About the noise with the DD, if you get your high idle enabled and bump it up about 200 rpms that will take care of it or install a fluiddamper wich is more $.
However keep an eye out, I bet in about a month or so DD noise will no longer be an issue....
However keep an eye out, I bet in about a month or so DD noise will no longer be an issue....
12-07-2006, 11:52 PM
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As far as the rep i think it was peter?? HMM wonder why he steered me that way to the ofe instead of the fe? Maybe the smoother engagement for towing.Yeah i thought bout the dual disc. I had one from centerforce in my old v-10. It held fine bein bored .20 over. Oh by the way, it was supercharged also. I just liked the whistle!
12-08-2006, 09:37 AM
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When my release bearing went out, I had no time for mail order clutches .......... NAPA had this clutch in stock. I think it was $600 for a complete kit (PP, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool). It can be just a little grabby with a heavy trailer on, but no worse than any clutches mention in this thread I'm sure.
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/