bigwheels94

OK, I did some testing this morning. 1st I pulled the tube out of the nozzle, & put it on another nozzle, & placed it in a water jug. I set up my Fluke88 on the pump lead, & set it to read %load. Hooked the boost tube to my little compressor, & set the regulator to 23-25#, & adjusted the controller start point there. Meter read 2.6-3.0 start @ 23-25psi. Then I adjusted the regulator to 43-45#, & adjusted the controller to max there. Meter read 13.65.
Next I put the 375ml nozzle back in with the 625ml nozzle, & took it for a spin after setting my TNT to Sw6, & stock timing. It ran well with no rattle till I got to about 2500 rpm. There on up there was a slight rattle that I could hear.
I'm wondering if I might need to put both 625ml nozzles in? Could it be that I'm not getting enough up top causing my rattle? I would realy like to run SW9 with at least timing 4 with this if I can get it to work.

CLICKBANGBANG

I thought about trying both 625s. But everything is running fine. I'm on stock timing with a 375 and 625, and have zero rattle when running it at Med on the controler (opening at 18 psi of boost and 100% at 25).

bigwheels94

Are you running the standard revo? And stock turbo right? Im running tnt with a 62/65/13ss. I looked at devils own nozzle calculator, & it says I need 17.69gph of flow. That equals 1115ml/min. So a little less than both 625ml nozzles together. And Snow calls for both 625ml nozzles together for anything over 450hp. I was figuring I had too much which was causing my rattle. Maybe I was wrong.

CLICKBANGBANG

Yes. Stock turbo and with a 170 HP Smarty program I dyno'd at 470/940. I'm running the 210 HP Revo now. I'm not sure what I'm runnin without the W/M. The information I have from Snow Performance said above 500 HP for the 625s and 400-500 are the 375 and 625. When I talked to Josh at Snow, he confirmed that. But with no rattling or choking, I'd like to see how much I can run without a problem. Everyone has suggested to try and see how the truck will run with different set ups.

bigwheels94

Well, I guess theres only one way to find out. I'll swap out the 375 for the other 625 tomorrow, & see what happens. I havent dynoed since the old 4.11 Smarty, & a XZT box, but it put down 476 stacked, & now with TNT it's stronger. Maybe it needs more on the top end.

CLICKBANGBANG

I hooked up a 150 psi Autometer Phantom air gauge to the water meth injector line. It is fun to watch the pressure at 50% injection gain on the controler was 75 psi, and at 75% gain it was 100 psi. But when it hit 100%, the gauge pegs hard. The pump is a 300 psi and with the 625 and 375 nozzles it is suppose to be holding around 180 psi full open.

Autometer has a 0-200 psi oil gauge and a 0-300 psi universal but they are 2 5/8" gauge (vs 2 1/16"). Is there a 0-300 psi gauge for watching injecting pressure that is a 2 1/16"?

I may try both 625 nozzles to see if I drop line pressure at all and to see how the truck runs...

bigwheels94

I just got back from a test drive with both 625ml nozzles. It was pretty good as long as I was in the throttle hard, but at moderate loads it started flooding out. So far the best I have got is with the 625ml+375ml on stock timing on sw6. I have it set to start @ 21#, & max @ 40#. I think I may just have to break down, & load the camper to tune it for the loads I actually need it for.

John_P

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CLICKBANG:

Thanks for your input on the pressure drop situation with your system. I covered this earlier in this thread when I did testing with Scheid Diesel while my engine was on their "Taylor" Engine Dyno. The results were pretty surprising. Instead of rewriting all that, here is what I posted to the Members early in this thread:

__________________________________________________ _______________
Quote by John_P:

"Another point brought up here is about the "cooling effects" of water on the cylinders. As Robert has told everyone here, the systems tend to keep cylinders 2,3, and 4 fairly cool depending on the system you are using.
In my testing on Scheid's Engine Dyno, we found that my Snow System with the two .625ml nozzles in the intake horn, were keeping cylinders 2,3 and 4 fairly cool, but cylinders 1,5 and 6 were getting way too hot. When a thrid nozzle was added, the pressure on the Snow RV Water Type Pump (200psi)
would drop to an alarmingly low 130-140psi! So,.....because of that and to save my engine, I bought and had Scheid install their high pressure system which has worked great. BTW,.....all of this testing was done with CORSA Engine Diaganostic System with temeprature probes on each cylinder!"
__________________________________________________ ___________

As you guys can read, the more nozzles we added resulted in the pressure getting lower and lower and the EGT's getting higher and higher, especially in cylinders #1, #5 and #6. This is a condition each and very one of us will have to consider in setting these systems up. This is also why I decided to go up to the 1,000psi system that Scheid Diesel builds. But, I am well over 800 H.P. with twin turbos and a high output P-7100 fuel pump AND pretty large injectors, so my needs are going to be different than many here.
Now,....with that being said, I also had one of the very early 200psi "Snow" Water Pumps and I think yours is a 300psi.

In think you are right in keeping an eye on the water pressure within the system especially if you or other DTR Members are not seeing the EGT drop that you should be.

Nadir Point

Poor distribution across the cylinders is a drawback of mounting in the horn. I saw a dramatic improvement in both EGT control as well as eliminating quench and timing effect rattle when I went to more smaller nozzles mounted in the plenum.

CLICKBANGBANG

That would be quite a chore to do in a 3d gen. I installed my kit in the intake horn in under 3 hours. The final fitting of a plenum mount would be crowded on my truck. For what I'm doing, the standard install will work fine for now. If I ever tare down for twins and a head gasket, I may bite off doing a multi nozzle plenum set up.

Nadir Point

Not exactly easy by any means, but the plenum cover slides out by taking off the intake/heater, pulling the #1 injector tube, line holders, a couple sensors and unbolting it. It's a tight squeeze coming out and going back in, but it can be done in a couple hours and there is room to mount them in the top cover:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_86.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_87.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_88.jpg

bigwheels94

I removed the 625ml nozzle from the intake horn, & drilled, & tapped a port in the CAC outlet, & plumbed it in down there. I havent had a chance to give it a test yet, but hopefully that will give me better distribution with more time to mix with the air charge. The 375 nozzle is still in the intake horn for now. I still have it set to start @ 21#, & max @ 40#.

Nadir Point

I think you are going the wrong direction. The closer to the intake valve the better. Ported directly into the head is best. But that really is a bit of a "chore" as t'were...

bigwheels94

Aparently there are different schools of thought on that. Devils Own page on nozzle placement advocates placing the nozzles farther away from the valves thereby giving the water more time to be absorbed by the air charge, giving better distribution to all the cyl., & a cooler charge.

CLICKBANGBANG

Well, the water meth was a bust on the dyno. And somehow I lost 50hp and 100tq on fuel only. Might be a bad lift pump. Bummer day for me. :-(

The controler showed injection at 100%, pump light lit, gauge showed pressure. But zero power gain. I'm guessing plugged nozzles. Freaking sucked. Now back to the "what the heck is wrong" drawing board.

But in better news, my buddy (97 auto, stock ish) with the same Tow-Max kit saw some great gains. That is encouraging for me if I ever get the kit to work. He based fuel only at 266hp (I forgot all his tq #s). He picked up 30hp on the EGT mode and 67hp in Boost mode (100% gain w/ 50/50 mix both nozzles were 625s). At 330hp+ he was happy with those numbers.