matego

I have been secretly underground spying and taking notes.

I have been too poor for the diesel scene and if I am around it, I want it. Kind of like being addicted to crack or Mt. Dew cold turkey is the best approach.

rock crawler

Ok, so I've been reading and learning about water injection in this thread and I have a couple of questions that I cannot really find a clear answer for in here.

1. Is there one kit that is better than another (or special requirements) for us who are running in the 600 HP range?

2. How important is it to have water access each cylinder equally? (I would think VERY) It seems that if you were to install nozzles on the intake horn that the water would be used up by the first cylinders it reached leaving nothing for the others. How would you direct water to each cylinder without major modifications?

Personally, I would use the system just for playing/racing since the largest thing I tow is my Jeep on a car hauler maybe three to four times a year.

RowJ

Water injection, and air, to each cylinder individually, would be ideal. I have seen this set up once, on XLR8R's race truck.
But it's not required.
IMO, If you're maintaining a steady boost pressure, which we all do .... you have pressurized air and atomized H2O, throughout the plenum, waiting for all 12 intake valves to open.

RJ

John_P

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rock crawler:

RJ is giving you very good advice in his post.

You have probably read most of my posts on the water injection issue. I have used both the "Snow" Kits and now a high pressure, five (5) nozzle Scheid System in my 96' twin turbo Dodge 12 valve CTD.

As RJ said, YES,.....proper placement of the nozzles is important and "water access to each cylinder" IMO, is the best way to set a water injection system up. On my truck with the Snow System, I saw EXACTLY what you are talking about with the EGT's when the nozzles were placed in the air horn.
With a CORSA Diagnostic Engine System on each of my cylinders, we found that cylinders #2, #3, and #4 would stay reasonably cool while cylinders #1,
#5 and #6 would be getting much hotter. Adding another nozzle helped some, but then the pressure from the single 200psi RV style pump dropped off so dramatically that good "atomization" of the water was not occuring.

So,....because of that, and in the interest of not "frying" my new engine, I ended up going with five (5) nozzles, all "machined" into the individual cylinders! Scheid's Water Pump also pumps alot more pressure (mine goes to 800 psi) and I can regulate that. Now, with over 800 H.P., I NEVER see EGT's get much above 1450-1500 degrees even on VERY hot (95+ degrees) at the dragstrip.

Hope this helps you some.

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John_P

Rpainter

Man I wish I could have 5 nozzles machined into my intake runner Rob

rock crawler

Ok, so if I were to install a water injection kit into the intake horn then the temp reading on my EGT gauge will not be accurate for the cylinders not getting a good shot from the injection kit, right? So, how would you properly monitor the temp on each cylinder? You would basically be getting a false reading of EGTs. So, would it make sense to make the injection system read EGTs off of the hottest cylinder? (If it were set up to spray based on EGTs) Or, am I just making it more difficult than it has to be? I guess the best way to do it would be to remove the intake rail and have it modified. Sounds really expensive though.

Rpainter

first to get true readings of the egt's you would need a data logger or 6 egt gauges one for each cylinder. water nozzles into the intake horn usually only cool #3,4 and 5 the best with a little water going to #2 and very little going to 1 and 6. I used to run nozzles into the intake horn totally 42 gallons per hour and I was still able to burn of 2,000 degree paint off the exhaust manifold back on #6 with my egt gauge reading 1,350.. and in order for you to install nozzles into the intake runner you will need to pull the head drill and tap the number of holes you wish to run nozzles. reinstall the head and go thru weeks of tuning in order to get the system properly dialed in.And systems that use a boost switch for on and off only will not work due to to much water at once. Rob

rock crawler

Ok, well I'll have to stick with a basic system then. I think all that is a little too much for my use. Since I just need something to help cool and give me a little exrta HP while playing I'll probably just go with the Snow stage II kit. I'm running around the 600 HP range. Will the stage II kit with 2 to 3 nozzles work well for what I need?

Rpainter

How big of a nozzle do you plan on running,what size line and what are your egt's while"playing"???

RowJ

Works well for me! Two 625 nozzles, with their bigger pump, and on full pressure at 40 psi, cools temps by 200*.... and they climb much slower!

RJ

rock crawler

I have no idea. I guess I'll start with what the kit comes with. I have not taken it to a track yet but I know that the EGTs would get to 1600 well before the end of the 1/4 mile.

Rpainter

I think your main problem is you are running out of air on the top end. Something water will not help. But I would start out with the small and the medium size nozzle that comes with the kit. I think it will come with three nozzles not sure. If the system is progressive start your pump at 8 to 10 psi and go full on by 25 psi of boost.And then start tuning from there. Also if you run 1/4" line from the pump to the nozzle that line will only flow enough water to handle 20 gph in nozzles.

John_P

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rockcrawler:

I agree with what Robert is telling you above in his post. Contrary to popular belief,......no matter what system you run you have to "tune the water system" to your particular vehicle. I think this is one of the biggest problems I see with water injection in our trucks. I have found that no two diesel trucks are exactly the same. Robert is giving you some good tips in his post there. And believe me, Robert has done ALOT of "trial and error" with his water system but now has it to where it works pretty darn well for him!

BTW,....I forgot to tell you in my last post that I began experiencing EGT problems with my "Snow" System when I hit about 675 H.P.,......so you may be alright where you are at.

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John_P

rock crawler

Thanks for all the advice guys. Is it better to run the spray based on boost or egt? At WOT my boost reads about 45psi. I only plan on using the system for playing but if I decided to use it while towing would it be better to spray based on egt so that it will not consume so much water? The problem for me is that there are SO MANY options it gets a little confusing. Again, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the help. BTW my intake horn has 2 large ports and 1 small port left free.

rock crawler

So, maybe my turbo is too small? I would not mind going larger some day but I like the daily driveability of mine.