Understanding Smarty Jr Settings & POD
Understanding Smarty Jr Settings & POD
I just got a Smarty Jr, and I'm trying to get my head around the POD part of the Smarty setup along with the other settings.
On my 05, If I set my SJ on SW3 (+100 HP) it should = ~425 HP....right?
So if I set the PoD to 50, does that mean it's only applying 50% of the additional power (meaning +50 and ~375 HP) or 50% of the full power level (212.5 HP)????
Torque Management:
Also, do I read it correctly that the order of the levels from least to most aggressive is:
#1 Stock
#4 Less than 3
#3 Less than 2
#2 Mild
#0 Default (ie smarty default setting)
I'm currently using SW3, TM4, TQ4, PoD 50
Also, any tips on using the unit itself? I have to say so far I love the programming but hate the programmer. It's difficult at best to use, NOT intuitive in the least, and confusing.
When I tried to apply my program for the first time, I was only able to set the SW level, then it updated the ECM with it's ~5 minute transfer. Then I was able to set the PoD, TM, & TQ levels, then it did it's ~5 minute transfer again. Is this normal?
On my 05, If I set my SJ on SW3 (+100 HP) it should = ~425 HP....right?
So if I set the PoD to 50, does that mean it's only applying 50% of the additional power (meaning +50 and ~375 HP) or 50% of the full power level (212.5 HP)????
Torque Management:
Also, do I read it correctly that the order of the levels from least to most aggressive is:
#1 Stock
#4 Less than 3
#3 Less than 2
#2 Mild
#0 Default (ie smarty default setting)
I'm currently using SW3, TM4, TQ4, PoD 50
Also, any tips on using the unit itself? I have to say so far I love the programming but hate the programmer. It's difficult at best to use, NOT intuitive in the least, and confusing.
When I tried to apply my program for the first time, I was only able to set the SW level, then it updated the ECM with it's ~5 minute transfer. Then I was able to set the PoD, TM, & TQ levels, then it did it's ~5 minute transfer again. Is this normal?
Your order of TQ is correct.
The hp gains are rear-wheel. SW1 is not a peak gain, but in the mid range, SW2 and SW3 are a peak gain. On similar settigs (PoD99 thou) I put down 437/808 corrected.
PoD cuts total power, so if its 437 to the ground PoD 50 would be like 220 to the ground. To me it feels like PoD adjusts the TPS input, so a PoD of 50 means that at WOT your ECM is only thinking your at 50% throttle.
I really only use PoD when on dirt roads, I tried it for months and never saw any mpg gain.
To change the PoD you don't have to reprogram, but to change Tq and Tm you do have to reprogram the truck.
The hp gains are rear-wheel. SW1 is not a peak gain, but in the mid range, SW2 and SW3 are a peak gain. On similar settigs (PoD99 thou) I put down 437/808 corrected.
PoD cuts total power, so if its 437 to the ground PoD 50 would be like 220 to the ground. To me it feels like PoD adjusts the TPS input, so a PoD of 50 means that at WOT your ECM is only thinking your at 50% throttle.
I really only use PoD when on dirt roads, I tried it for months and never saw any mpg gain.
To change the PoD you don't have to reprogram, but to change Tq and Tm you do have to reprogram the truck.
Y1- You must have a Chally or Cuda with your handle. Mine is FY3.
Anyway- to answer what I can - mine was the same when installing. It would only set the 3 basic choices then do the 5 minute thing for download. Now when I go in I can set the PoD etc. I have basically left it at 2 though. It is 5 minutes every time. You can change on the fly but most likely would need someone to drive while you play in the interest of safety. I cannot guide you on what settings you should have as I am a learner as well. All I know is that you have the potential to damage your motor with these programmers. Hope this helps.
Anyway- to answer what I can - mine was the same when installing. It would only set the 3 basic choices then do the 5 minute thing for download. Now when I go in I can set the PoD etc. I have basically left it at 2 though. It is 5 minutes every time. You can change on the fly but most likely would need someone to drive while you play in the interest of safety. I cannot guide you on what settings you should have as I am a learner as well. All I know is that you have the potential to damage your motor with these programmers. Hope this helps.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Live Oak Texas
I run mine on SW3, Torque 2 and timing 2 with PoD 65. I was running PoD on 85 but it would slip my stock clutch very easily. After I change my clutch I will go back up.
Once you program which level you want, SW1, 2, or 3, You can change the PoD, Torque and Timing without the 5 min. program step. Once you change them, they are applied the next time you start your truck.
Once you program which level you want, SW1, 2, or 3, You can change the PoD, Torque and Timing without the 5 min. program step. Once you change them, they are applied the next time you start your truck.
Thats not 100% true. The only thing that you can change without the 5 min program is PoD. Torque and Timing requre a re-program of the truck. You can adjust the options anytime you want, but the truck wont change until its reprogrammed.
I have a 73 Dart Sport I'm restoring that's factory FY1 Top Banana.
Look at it this way. If your PoD is set at 75 that means at WOT on the pedal the ECM is only fueling like your at 75% throttle. So at PoD 50 the pedal is 1/2 as sensitive and WOT is only fueling 50% of the possible fuel, and it takes 2x as much pedal to make "x" hp, you just run out of pedal at about 50% fueling. The rest of the parameters are the same. Set the PoD to 10 and see if you can even move the truck at more than 15 mph. If you mess with it for a while you'll see what I mean.
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OK...how about some help with those two items...timing and torque management.
As I've always understood it when I had my 04 Hemi 1500, the torque management is used just to remove power from the motor during shifts (especially under WOT) so as to extend transmission life by not making it deal with full engine power. So how is the torque management system different in this situation that it makes such a HUGE difference by backing it off just a little bit?
I'm familiar with gas engines but this my first diesel. Is the application of timing THAT effective with a diesel? This thing now feels like a COMPLETELY different truck.
As I've always understood it when I had my 04 Hemi 1500, the torque management is used just to remove power from the motor during shifts (especially under WOT) so as to extend transmission life by not making it deal with full engine power. So how is the torque management system different in this situation that it makes such a HUGE difference by backing it off just a little bit?
I'm familiar with gas engines but this my first diesel. Is the application of timing THAT effective with a diesel? This thing now feels like a COMPLETELY different truck.
Tq management limits the overall power of the engine until a certain gear (auto) or speed (manual) is obtained. This is to keep the drivetrain alive when you start multiplying tq. So essentially your ECM won't allow you to make the full 610 ft/lbs of tq until the parameters are met. You really don't notice the lack of full power becuase you get tq multiplication from gears.
Timing is pretty effective on the 04.5-07 5.9's, the factory timing was quite retarded to meet emissions. On a dyno I picked up about 80ish ft/lbs of tq from 1800-2400 rpms on timing only, and the engine rev's a lot easier now.
Timing is pretty effective on the 04.5-07 5.9's, the factory timing was quite retarded to meet emissions. On a dyno I picked up about 80ish ft/lbs of tq from 1800-2400 rpms on timing only, and the engine rev's a lot easier now.
That makes sense...thanks!!
OK so the setup for my last question is this...my truck is STOCK except for the Smarty Jr. I want to wake this thing up and play a little, I DON'T have huge money to dump in for a Gorend trans, big turbo, etc, etc., but I want it to last. I'm going to be putting EGT and boost gauges on very soon. I don't use my accelerator pedal like an on-off switch, although I'll do the occasional 'spirited blast'. Overall I drive it pretty easy.
If I run the settings I have now (SW3, TM4, TQ4, PoD 75=~stock HP) Am I going to tun the risk of frying a torque converter or trans? I understand that the converters in these trucks can only handle ~+40 HP before they start self destructing.
OK so the setup for my last question is this...my truck is STOCK except for the Smarty Jr. I want to wake this thing up and play a little, I DON'T have huge money to dump in for a Gorend trans, big turbo, etc, etc., but I want it to last. I'm going to be putting EGT and boost gauges on very soon. I don't use my accelerator pedal like an on-off switch, although I'll do the occasional 'spirited blast'. Overall I drive it pretty easy.
If I run the settings I have now (SW3, TM4, TQ4, PoD 75=~stock HP) Am I going to tun the risk of frying a torque converter or trans? I understand that the converters in these trucks can only handle ~+40 HP before they start self destructing.
Personally on a stock trans I would run SW1, TM2, TQ4 or TQ2 and PoD99. I also personally wouldn't run TM4 without a bypass oil filter, for me it makes a lot more soot in the oil.
I personally don't like PoD below about 90 for daily driving. I'll sometime run 90 becuase the pedal isn't as touchy and I can drive it smoother on snow/ice, etc.. But from a mileage standpoint I never saw a gain.
I personally don't like PoD below about 90 for daily driving. I'll sometime run 90 becuase the pedal isn't as touchy and I can drive it smoother on snow/ice, etc.. But from a mileage standpoint I never saw a gain.
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Live Oak Texas
Looks like I will have to go look at it again to see what my settings really are now
Personally on a stock trans I would run SW1, TM2, TQ4 or TQ2 and PoD99. I also personally wouldn't run TM4 without a bypass oil filter, for me it makes a lot more soot in the oil.
I personally don't like PoD below about 90 for daily driving. I'll sometime run 90 becuase the pedal isn't as touchy and I can drive it smoother on snow/ice, etc.. But from a mileage standpoint I never saw a gain.
I personally don't like PoD below about 90 for daily driving. I'll sometime run 90 becuase the pedal isn't as touchy and I can drive it smoother on snow/ice, etc.. But from a mileage standpoint I never saw a gain.
OK...time to start beating this dead horse again...
So if the POD work as you described earlier, then what would be the difference in the programs set as follows?
SW1 @ PoD89 (+40hp=365hp*.89=325hp)
SW2 @ PoD82 (+70hp=395hp*.82=325hp)
SW3 @ PoD76 (+40hp=425hp*.89=325hp)
Is it fuel mapping or something else maybe? I've got my truck set on TM2 (default low-smoke), TQ4, SW1 PoD 99 (365hp) and it's nowhere NEAR as responsive as SW3 PoD 75 (319hp) with the same TQ & TM settings.

So if the POD work as you described earlier, then what would be the difference in the programs set as follows?
SW1 @ PoD89 (+40hp=365hp*.89=325hp)
SW2 @ PoD82 (+70hp=395hp*.82=325hp)
SW3 @ PoD76 (+40hp=425hp*.89=325hp)
Is it fuel mapping or something else maybe? I've got my truck set on TM2 (default low-smoke), TQ4, SW1 PoD 99 (365hp) and it's nowhere NEAR as responsive as SW3 PoD 75 (319hp) with the same TQ & TM settings.


