I installed a Turbo mounted Pac-Brake and new 4" down pipe on my truck. Got the 04.5 Pac. Was hoping for a little help on EGT's didn't happen. Not sure if my sig is up to date. MOD's SBC DD, 60hp II rebuilt injectors. AFE Filter. 4" to Donaldson muffler to 4" to stacks that have 6" tips. TST. I tow on 3/3. 21k loaded when I tow.

Which turbo will my pack mount to? I'm not interesting in changing it so what turbo's will mount to the PAC. Of those turbo's does any one have any input. The places I camp has some stupid hills that I have to try to accelerate on so while I know bigger will be laggy I don't need something that I can never get out of 2nd on.

 

your in luck, last year I did a thread very similar to this. After like 4 pages and much headaches, I came to my final setup. Its an industrial injection phat shaft 62/65/14 with my pacbrake attached. Even though mine is an 03, I went with the 04.5 versions because at the time of putting my pacbrake on, I had an 04.5 turbo.
Here's what I know: when I set this up, I towed a trailer with a backhoe on it that weighed 21k also. this turbo spooled up good for going through town, and on the freeway hitting the hills it pulls hard. I had a bigger turbo, 62/71/14, and it was a monster on the freeway, but in town was a dog with that load behind it. I feel not only is the 62-65-14 a great turbo all around, but it was the best bang for my buck.
As far as tubos that will fit, the II versions above will fit, and also some of the garrets will. But, the garrets require a new coolant line to be ran, and I didn't want to mess with that.
Notes on the installation: its a headache. I had to bend my oil dip stick tube, which is a lot harder than it sounds. Also, the turbo clearance to the front axle spring attachment is very tight, and I had to time the turbo inlet up to make it fit the air box properly. Getting to the back flange nuts are horrible. I swapped my 03 turbo for my 04.5 in 1.5hrs. Swapping for this new turbo took me 8hrs. You need to pull the front wheel off, and take off the inner fender. Also, you will have to loosen all your exhaust clamps because the new turbos are a little longer and require your down pipe to move back.
MY Suggestion: If you can afford another $600, get the HTT stainless high flow manifold, pull everything off of the truck, manifold, turbo, and brake. Bend the oil dipstick back towards the firewall at least 1/2", assemble turbo and manifold on a table, stick the manifold and turbo back on as 1pc. Very easy. Then install the brake again loosely, and fit the down pipe and exhaust up to it, then tighten everything. I learned this trick the hard way, because after I had it installed, I didn't get one of the flange nuts tight, it fell off, which resulted in some noise and of course a leak, which I took it to another diesel shop and he noticed my manifold stud was broken, so I ended up having him do it all agian, and he did everything in 5hrs by pulling it all and putting it back in as 1 piece. If nothing else, maybe just pull the manifold and do a new gasket. Also, the oil return line is a pain. I finally ended up getting a longer hose. 1" longer makes a huge difference.

 

I should add though, It was really worth all the trouble. It works great, and once you get that turbo on there and go to pull that trailer you will love it. It only cost me $375 for the mechanic to install it, so depending on how much you want to get into it, it may be money well spent.

 

Thanks for the info and the write I up. I appreciate it.