If you use the motor off method with a magnet, how are you suppose to get
out the chips if you install it right above turbo flange?

Seems to me all the chips would fall way down into the turbo. Ican understand how you would get them off the floor of the exhaust manifold.
they are right there about 1 1/2" below the hole.

The install above the flange in the vertical section seems to me like drilling
a hole in a elevator shaft then using a 50 foot long magnet to retrieve them..... there is no floor or flat surface to hit...only turbo fins & internals...
...Am I missing something? Is there a flat surface they land on, say 2or 3" below the hole?

Also, Diesel Manor has a 3rd method for this install. They say use progressively larger bit each time thru USING NO GREASE. Its as if they are saying the filings are so small its dust & will just blow thru & hurt nothing.
They do say use a vacuum to suck them out...

Need some thought from experience on this...

 

A lot of us have just idled the truck when going through, this way there is pressure on the manifold and any chips or shavings will be sent straight out the exhaust.
I have done two of them this way and they both worked out very well, no issues.

I only used two bits, one small one 1/8"? and then the 25/64ths (or whatever it is).

There is a shop vac method too, I can't remember how people were doing that though.

 

Just tape off the end of the tailpipe, started the engine and start drilling. Start small and work your way up on the drill bit sizes.
Be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses, the metal shavings will be flying.

MikeyB

 

Like you I was a little worried, it was my plan to drop the turbo but gave up on that when I couldn't get at one of the nuts.
I started with the smallest bit, moved up using grease till the final bit. It's amazing how well the grease trick works, just clean, re grease, next size and keep going.
Then I spun turbo to make sure it wasn't jammed and fired it up with the new hole open to blow it out.
Same method with tapping, worked well, no problem.

Pics, tips in my gallery.

 

I dropped the turbo a few inches and taped the turbo off.. there were alot of shavings that fell on to the tape.. Glad I did it this way..

Gerry

 

Just leave the engine off. Drill your hole, tap it, install the pyro, then remove the air inlet off the cold side of the turbo and spin it by hand to make sure it moves freely. Reinstall and start the truck. Let idle for a minute and done.

 

I have to disagree with idleing the engine while drilling. If you think a few shavings are going to damage your turbo just imagine what a the tip of a busted drill bit will do. I dont see a problem with the grease methold. I've always used the step method and have never had a problem. If you makes you feel better start the engine after each step to blow the little shavings out.

 

They say 4,5, & 6 burn hottest. Anyone know the variance coldest to hottest of ALL cylinders? For ease of install, could I put it on top of 5/6 channel? Engine is not in front of me, but best I remember, there is a common channel connecting 5 & 6 which goes down to the popular spot above the turbo flange.

Not being mechanically gifted , I like the top of manifold best. In case my clumsy were to slip or something I could better correct
my boo-boos from this spot.

I guess the reason the spot above the flange is preferred is because that gives an average of the 3 hottest cylinders. Is this correct?

 

You probably could do it there, but your pyro would read hotter and it will be hard to get to. Not to be mean, but there's no room for boo boo's. It's a one shoot deal. Dont let this worry you though. Take your time and everything will go fine. Check out this out, it will walk you through anything and everything you need to know. http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS3-...ugeinstall.htm

 

Yeah, I saw diesel manor last nite. I'm kinda leanin' now toward the DRY,SLOW,DUSTY approach. Seems all of the methods have been carried out w/much success. Anybody ever posted where they FUBAR'ed it?

I think I like the no motor running deal now. On a rookie I tend to think
all that heat with a motor running may promote someone to hurry up &
fubar it. I'll probably have the slowest elapsed time in history on this...

 

If you pull the plastic inner fender well you have a straight shot to the area above the mainfold flange... I was able to get a straight shot with a 18V Dewalt...

 

I'll look at doin' that too. No need for a 90* drill that way & you can see what'cher doin' better....

 

Very good question. I remember reading a post here on DTR where a member had a pyro in both locations. I would very much like to know the answer to your question if that member is reading this.

 

I tried that for 3 hours!!! couldn't get the last bolt loose to drop the tranny.. i was screaming mad.. Yeah I have a temper!!! Finally tapped post turbo.. Goona tap it pre-turbo when I put the A5K on.. I would recommend spraying the bolts with some type of loosener (can't think of proper term at the moment!! ) for a week to get them loose...

Shane

 

Don't apologize!! Gettin' good & edited by admin off when you know what happens prevents us from having strokes & heart attacks Nothing was better than the day I threw the hammer
at a tire & it came back & hit me in the knee cap... ....... ...YEEEEEEOOOOWWWW!