My '07 was all-stock until today. I now have 35" tires with my 3.73 gears. Next on the list is gauges and a Smarty.

Being new to automatic transmissions, I am unsure of what to do next. Budget dictates that I either ignore my trans and kill it over the next 20k miles, or I throw a TC and VB at it and hope it makes it for 60k or so...

I have 9k miles on it now, and would like to avoid spending $7k-$8k on a full-tilt tranny in the next year or two. I can't seem to get a straight answer from the two or three shops I've talked to. One says TC, VB, input shaft and flexplate. Other one says go for the whole trans. Another says I can get away with just a TC and VB. I'm leaning towards Sun Coast parts...

My planned mods: Injectors, Cam, Valve springs, Smarty, pressure box, twins, and whatever else I add along the way to support these mods. I plan to do the injectors, cam and springs first, then work my way to the turbos. I think it will take until 60k miles before I have the $$ for the big HP and twins.

Can I get away with running the stock tranny that long, or do I drop $2500 now on a converter and valve body?

 

TC and VB will hold around 500hp pretty well if you stay away from high boost 4wd launches. I wouldn't plan on a stock tranny holding a Smarty and pressure box for 60k and for sure not if you throw injectors at it before that. If you do the TC and VB now, you can use those later down the road when you go all out. The only thing is cost you was some labor.

 

well companies like HTS can put in good parts and add clutches to your trans. to hold power. dusty tried to talk me into that and it was alot cheaper than going out all out for a new unit with billet shafts.
www.htstransmissions.com
I dont think "killing" the transmission is the best plan but its your truck.
upgrades can be done: billet input, more clutches per clutch pack, converter/ valve body and it will hold alot of power like omaran stated if you drive it right

 

my tranny on my 05 is still holding fine with the smarty on it. im just yanking and throwing in a built one. mine has almost 70k on it. yours probably has less miles so adding parts to it would be cheaper and probably your best bet till you blow it up.

 

JCleary,

Get it over with...

Input, Flexplate, TC & VB, clutch packs, and what ever your builder of choice does do a few other small internal flaws in the OEM tranny...

You will be most happy and save money in the long run.

A Smarty, a little pressure, and a good turbo is over 500 hp on the new trucks...

 

Since you have big power planned in the future do the full build instead of just torque converter and valve body, otherwise you'll be pulling it apart again in the future.

 

My problem is cash-availability at the moment...

I can justify $2500 for a couple of years use, but I can't afford the $6k-7k or so needed for a decent build...

So my choices are pretty much limited to leaving it stock, or dropping $2500 for some insurance. I would much rather do a full-tilt trans, but I can't at the moment.

It seems the consensus is spend money!

 

might want to talk to dave at goerend as well. With the low miles you have, I would probably point you to a flex plate, VB and TC with a deep pan if you are towing. You'll want the anchor kit and trans control module also. Billet input is a fine idea now, or wait till it dies as they are easy enough to swap out. He is really good about crediting for stuff you already bought when you eventually go whole hog.

 

With the power level your talking about I would also do a flexplate and input shaft with the v-body and t/c.
Just think if your input shaft takes out that new $1200
t/c. 37" tires and all that torque with a tighter converter
must be tough on a stock input shaft.

 

i think you would be happy doing what you can do now,TC, VB, clutch packs, etc.

i didnt do it and have been babying my truck for the last year which takes alot of self control that i dont have. finally now am i able to get a TC and VB .

good luck!

 

Do the VB and converter with the input shaft.
As far as the flex plate, I'm not sure you need it, but if you get the stronger one, you won't need to go into it for a long time.
The VB will raise the pressure to hold the power you have. just be honest with the builder of the Vb as far as power level goes.
you will be fine.

 

Sorry to hijack but I am curious about how hard it would be to put in a billet input. I am thinking of doing a TC and VB myself but don't know a whole lot about auto transmissions. I definitely want a billet input but figured it would be a lot tougher than just TC and VB. school me guys.

 

Dave Goerend will send an instructional video along if you buy from him.