There are sample tunes, that show approx how to make the power based on the SJR settings, however you cannot edit them. You get a 100% stock tune to edit and go from there.

There are also example of say SSR at 50, but you will be starting from mostly scratch.

 

Thanks for your work and for keeping us updated, AH64ID.

 

AH64ID,

Ok ready to start from scratch it is. No more tweaking for me till I get my UDC then.

Thanks Lee

 

Subscribed can't wait what is the release date on this and great writeup my friend!

 

does no one know when it will be released? i saw the info on MADS website and the demo but saw no info on a release or anything. who's got the info???

 

I had an unexpected chance to dyno today. Last time I dyno'd was in 08 with the JR on SW3, stock turbo, and stock cam.

The new graph is much smoother! This is smoothing on zero. The below numbers are uncorrected, the corrected numbers are 414/850. I am impressed how flat the torque curve is, and how consistent the numbers were on runs 2 and 3. Run #1 was PoD on 70, I was curious how it effected WOT power, and it's pretty obvious. Run #2 was PoD on 85, which is were I run normally and my gauges told me it was the same power as PoD99, which I was able to verify. The throttle and power are smoother on PoD85 when towing, and the smoke is also down a little (not that it really smokes anyhow).

My previous dyno was 387/712 (437/808), so I am down a few hp but up quite a bit of torque. For how I use the truck this is just fine, and I won't be looking for that lost hp.

My timing is pretty tame, peak about 20°. I am sure that I could get more power from timing, but I do plenty of towing with the truck and want to be on the safe side.

Smoothing 0, Uncorrected


Smoothing 2, Corrected

 

Subscribing as well ....... this is some fantastic info.




-Kris

 

So it's been a while since I really gave any update, other than the dyno graph. Truth is that I didn't adjust my tuning for 2 months. I was very happy with it. It met all of my goals for how I was using it. Last week I did some towing and realized I needed to tweak the settings in the 35-55% load area. I was towing across Idaho at 2K rpms, OD, at 18K GCW (11' tall TT) into a 20-30 mph headwind on a 90° day. I realize that sustained operation in that load range gave me slightly higher EGT's than expected. I know a few degrees comes from the manifold blankets, but I was at 1000-1150° the whole time, and may have cooled off to 900° on the few shallow down-grades. I didn't have my laptop with me, but took some mental notes. On the return trip the temp was about 15° cooler, and I didn't have a head wind and the load was lower, and the temps where where I expected them to be. I know I am not going to be able to move that weight at those speeds at 900-1000° with a headwind, but wanted to make a small tweak.

I went back to my timing tables and thought I could add a little and see what happened. I had ran more timing previously and it hazed a little too much, but this time I tried even more. Still very mild. I haven't hooked up the trailer yet, but in the 30-50% load my EGT's are down a little, boost is similar, and the haze is similar to the more retarded setting. I get some haze in the "passing" region because the EGT's are low and the turbine isn't as efficient. When towing there is zero haze at those loads because there is more heat to be retained in the turbine.

I also got to looking at my cruise section of the timing table. I think there was a little room to improve on mpgs. This morning driving to work I did some testing with the lie-o-meter. I have been using 1600 rpms as the start of my "cruise/economy" region. I set the cruise at 1400 rpms on a flat road and reset the lie-o-meter, it instantly read ±38 mpgs, and settled in the 34 range. I then accelerated to 1600 rpms and did the same thing. It instantly read ±29 mpg and settled at ±28. I realize it's not 100% accurate, but 10 mpg difference for 3-4 mph? I thought maybe I had too much timing in the cruise region and was working against myself. I retarded the timing a bit and went back out. This time the 1400 reading was ±37 and the 1600 was ±36. So I think I am on the right track. The timing is still advanced for economy, but not so much that I am working against myself.

I have my first empty highway run for about 110 miles this afternoon, so time will tell.

I am coming out of towing season, so I won't really know if I like this new 35-55% region for a while, but that's tuning for you.

I also spent last week driving around Yellowstone. The elevation is 6400-8800. I was there last year and had to be very careful not to make a LOT of smoke on the standard Smarty Jr SW3 tune. This year there was hardly any, even if I got on it (kids like to hear the turbo whistle) the smoke was no where near as think and cleared very quick. The only difference from last year to this year is the UDC and a GDP Air Boss/Grid Delete. I would guess most of the smoke, or lack thereof, is the tuning. I did get 18.9 mpg driving around Yellowstone for the week, at about 9000 lbs. I got about 18.0 last year.

 

Another update...

I did that 110 mile run at 70-80 and got 19.2, so I think backing the timing off a little really helped. I have since bumped it back a tiny tiny bit and the load went down, so I am happy.

I have still been messing with that 30-50% load area, trying to find a good timing for spool, but also one I can hold sustained when towing and not have too hot of EGT's. I won't hook the trailer up again for a few months but I am pretty happy with how it works now. EGT's are down a little and no increase in spool time.

I have also decided to upgrade to a Smarty Sr. I don't want/need any more power than I am making now, but I really don't like the OEM rail pressure map. I think it should be smoother, and not have peaks and valleys in the middle of it. A smoother rail pressure map means smoother timing, less rapid FCA changes, pressure changes, etc. Since I built my own timing calculator I have already got a tune ready to plug into UDC when the Sr shows up. It keeps the same duration, and relative timing that I have now, but a very different rail pressure map. I am curious how it will effect everything.

 

Please explain/share the timing calculator? How does this allow for easy building of a UDC tune?

Thanks..

 

I am not sure I want to share it, as I am not 100% convinced there aren't errors, and it's not automatic..it takes a lot of input and any small error could mess things up... but here are some pointers.

Timing is a function of pulse width (duration) and rpm. Each load %age and rpm should have a different timing value.


Looking at some of the UDC samples timing is the same from 68.9% thru 100%. In a racing application that may be okay as they go from 20% to 100%, and don't spend much time between 70% and 90%, but if you tow I don't think flat timing is good. The pulse width at 70% is a lot shorter than WOT, so the effective timing is much greater, so at 70% load you will have higher piston temps, higher cylinder pressure, etc than at 100% load. Each load needs it's own timing. As pulse width increases timing must increase to keep the same relative (% before TDC and % after TDC) timing.

On my truck that high timing from 1000-1400 really is noisy. I dropped it way back. I don't have my Dongle with me, but I recall being around -3° at 12.6% load at 1000 rpms.

Generally speaking 1000-1400 (0-50% load) is spool region , this is the only place on my timing map I run less timing than the factory. Above 50% load here isn't obtained often, but I generally advance from 50% to WOT a few degrees. 1600-2400 0-30% is the cruise region, mainly up thru 25%, I use 25.1 as a transition and am completely out of the cruise timing at 31.4%. Now you are in the acceleration/spool/hill mode. I back the timing off to reduce piston temp, increase exhaust volume for turbo spooling, and still make good power. This is the hardest part to tune (32.4-100) because what works for spool may not be good for towing a trailer at 40% load for hours on end, so you have to mess with it to find the best spot. At these rpms the entire timing map can be used, especially if you tow. 2600-redline, this is the passing, racing, playing zone. My low load timing is not increased here (but how often are you 10-50% load in these rpms, this is the zone where you will be dumping fuel and need the power. Timing is critical because of piston speed, it's easy to go too far or too little. With stock duration/pressure I would stick to about 19° max at WOT/3200 and 22° max at WOT/3500.

One last thing, on the duration map Marco has rpms/load as the labels. That should be rail pressure and volume, as the duration map has nothing to do with rpms. The ECM uses rail pressure and desired fuel (load) to determine the pulse width. So that 100% 3600 rpm block can be applied at much less than 3600 rpms. This is needed if you create your own timing calculator.

IMHO it should look like this... Load on top, pressure on left.



So at 100% load and 23,206 (peak OEM rail pressure) the injector is open for 2005 micro seconds. The way a timing calculator works is you take that 2005 micro seconds, the deg/sec of the crank, and when you want to inject the fuel (say 50% before TDC/50% after TDC) and you get the timing needed. So at 2000 rpms it take 83us to go 1°. So 1002.5/83 is 12.07, or 12.1° of timing is what you need. At 3000 rpms it only takes 56us to go 1°, so you need 17.9° to get the same 50% of fuel injected BTDC.

Obviously the duration map is not all inclusive, so you will have to do the same extrapolation the ECM does if you want to calculate all your timing. You can calculate all the timing, some of it (I would work 100% load at a minimum so you know where you should max), or none of it...

I don't think you can create a mash it without smoke tune that is reasonable on UDC, simply because we don't have access to the boost/fuel limiter table. So the base tune may allow more fuel than we can burn smoke-free, and mashing will do that. But you can play with your torque management to get it there. I also found reducing the PoD to 85 really helped and didn't effect power at all. Even aggressive driving I am black smoke free (just a haze), but if I go from 20% to 100% throttle in an instant than I roll some serious coal.

Happy tuning....

Here is a timing map I made (and have severely altered) but it gives you a GENERAL idea of flow. Numbers are irrelevant without knowing pressure/duration.

 

Getting into learn more

 

Well I got my Smarty Sr yesterday, so instead of sleeping I stared at UDC all night. I had already built a tune in the timing calculator, so I just had to copy it over (really want a copy/paste function). I made some minor tweaks once I could see it in the UDC map (Excel graphs aren't as easy to read/manipulate) and it's done.

With my new rail pressure map the timing map is smother.

Here is the timing with the stock pressure.



Here is my current timing, as you can see less minor peaks within the map, all based on pressure.



As I have said before without knowing what my pressure/duration tables look like the timing numbers are irrelevant.

 

The biggest problem I had when I was using the Diablo stack was touchy throttle response on the high hp/tq tunes - very hard to keep it clean in city driving. The TST is great - I can run the highest power and the throttle is like stock but the thing has other bugs. I've been reading that the smarty tunes also have a touchy throttle on the higher tq settings. Did you have a touchy throttle before the UDC and were you able to tune it out with the UDC? Craig

 

I just downloaded the udc program yesterday. After reading all of this it seems that a obd gauge with % load is really required to do the tuning properly. If you didn't have the % load gauge, how would you go about it?
I'm trying to decide if I should spend the $$ on an edge cs/cts and the dongle, or just wait for efi live.