Smarty, 04.5, wastegate ?
Smarty, 04.5, wastegate ?
If you have an 04.5 with a smarty and a turbo, will you still need the wastegate fooler for the aftermarket turbo or can you just turn the wastegate off via smarty and forget about it?
yeah, same here, revo and tnt only too. I've been pondering this incase I find a good deal on a turbo. I don't want to waste the money on a wastegate fooler if the Smarty fools the wastegate. I just wonder if the Smarty fools the wastegate or just disables it? One would think it would have to do both to not set a code right? I would just go unplug the wastegate and drive it and see if it throws a code. But that's hard to do when I'm in Iraq. Thanks for the help.
Good to see you got a smarty Madhat. Last I read that Juice Hot was causing you alot of egt trouble.
Good to see you got a smarty Madhat. Last I read that Juice Hot was causing you alot of egt trouble.
The Smarty disables the WG, so in a sense it boost fuels, not boost fools...
One thing to consider is drive pressure, on a stock turbo your pushing 60psi of DP at 40psi of boost... 60 psi is the most drive pressure you want to see on stock spings and HG (I get this number because 60 psi of backpressure is the limit for exhaust brakes, and 60 psi is 60 psi).. So really anything over 35-38 psi on a stock turbo is the danger zone for drive pressure... You can pull 45psi of boost from a different turbo and have lower drive pressure and be easier on the truck.
I can see 35psi on my Jr set on SW1, so I am adding a mech WG to keep the DP down.
One thing to consider is drive pressure, on a stock turbo your pushing 60psi of DP at 40psi of boost... 60 psi is the most drive pressure you want to see on stock spings and HG (I get this number because 60 psi of backpressure is the limit for exhaust brakes, and 60 psi is 60 psi).. So really anything over 35-38 psi on a stock turbo is the danger zone for drive pressure... You can pull 45psi of boost from a different turbo and have lower drive pressure and be easier on the truck.
I can see 35psi on my Jr set on SW1, so I am adding a mech WG to keep the DP down.
Ok, but that's not what I'm asking.
All I want to know is if you still need the wastegate fooler that HTT and Industrial make? Or if you can just turn the wastegate off with the Smarty and run an aftermarket turbo and not set any codes?
I'm not trying to push my stock turbo to blow up.... The whole point of my question is will I need the wastegate fooler if I buy a used aftermarket turbo that doesn't come with the wastegate fooler now that Smarty revo and tnt give you the option to turn the wastegate off?
All I want to know is if you still need the wastegate fooler that HTT and Industrial make? Or if you can just turn the wastegate off with the Smarty and run an aftermarket turbo and not set any codes?
I'm not trying to push my stock turbo to blow up.... The whole point of my question is will I need the wastegate fooler if I buy a used aftermarket turbo that doesn't come with the wastegate fooler now that Smarty revo and tnt give you the option to turn the wastegate off?
You will need a boostfooler (quad boost fooler or pressure box that does boost fooling) if boost goes over 40 . Smarty will only take you into the 40s.
You will also need something pluged into the waistgate (like HTT/Industral make.
Or you can leave the stock actuator pluged in.
My truck set a high boost code with Smarty waistgate dissabled /dr performance box & stock actuator in place.
Since then I put in the HTT/ Industral resister
& quad boost fooler.
You will also need something pluged into the waistgate (like HTT/Industral make.
Or you can leave the stock actuator pluged in.
My truck set a high boost code with Smarty waistgate dissabled /dr performance box & stock actuator in place.
Since then I put in the HTT/ Industral resister
& quad boost fooler.
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As for the solenoid, yes either leave it plugged in and tucked away or get the fooler, your choice.
Boost fooler or a device that does fooling(I use a TST for my boost fooling) is needed for the MAP sensor to allow over 40+ boost. You also will need wastegate fooler unless you leave your stock wastgate plugged into the harness. If you do not plug anything into the wastegate connection you will have Error codes and go into limp mode.
The Smarty disables the WG, so in a sense it boost fuels, not boost fools...
One thing to consider is drive pressure, on a stock turbo your pushing 60psi of DP at 40psi of boost... 60 psi is the most drive pressure you want to see on stock spings and HG (I get this number because 60 psi of backpressure is the limit for exhaust brakes, and 60 psi is 60 psi).. So really anything over 35-38 psi on a stock turbo is the danger zone for drive pressure... You can pull 45psi of boost from a different turbo and have lower drive pressure and be easier on the truck.
I can see 35psi on my Jr set on SW1, so I am adding a mech WG to keep the DP down.
One thing to consider is drive pressure, on a stock turbo your pushing 60psi of DP at 40psi of boost... 60 psi is the most drive pressure you want to see on stock spings and HG (I get this number because 60 psi of backpressure is the limit for exhaust brakes, and 60 psi is 60 psi).. So really anything over 35-38 psi on a stock turbo is the danger zone for drive pressure... You can pull 45psi of boost from a different turbo and have lower drive pressure and be easier on the truck.
I can see 35psi on my Jr set on SW1, so I am adding a mech WG to keep the DP down.
60psi of drive pressure is 60psi of pressure between the piston and the turbine wheel... nothing more...
60psi of boost coming through the intake gets compressed 16.5 times as the piston compresses it against the cylinder head... that's just shy of 1000psi of static pressure on the head gasket...
now, what do you think happens to cylinder pressure when you inject a big shot of fuel 10-20* before the piston reaches TDC?

I PROMISE you it's considerably higher than the 1000psi static pressure on the compression stroke, and astronomicly higher than the measly 60psi of drive pressure on the exhaust stroke.
drive pressure DOES NOT hurt head gaskets... it is stolen horsepower, nothing more, nothing less
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