Well, I just couldn't wait any longer, finally got the programmer. Going on a stock truck, except I do have a Rokktec sensor set at full timing advance.

I have a pyrometer, tranny temp, and boost gauge.

What's a safe level I can run on without having issues like burning the engine down, or taking out the lift pump out, or injectors, or whatever else that may go wrong with a programmer like this.

I know I have to watch my tranny, and watch pyrometer(I've got a decient baseline), but what other things should I be aware of if I get into the upper program levels?

Am I safe keeping the Rokktec in place?

Using the truck as a commuter, and I tow a 5th wheel with a boat behind that, total weight around13,000#. I would like to open her up and see what kind of power it makes without immediately ruining anything.

I'm new to this, so any and all comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Follow the recommendations of Smarty.

 

auto or manual? just follow the smarty recommendations. like annabelle said the only thing is once you get the smarty you will want to juice it up to the hills. but you got to keep it where they say it to be. some people run 90hp on the stock trans.

 

The Rokktec advances timing. Smarty does the same thing
if you want it to. I took my Rokktec off.

 

I believe Smarty recommends not higher than 90hp for a stock manual, and not higher than 60hp for a stock auto? Personally, I've never had mine set beyond 60hp on my stock auto; although I do run the moderate(#3) torque management. I love the throttle response.

 

I read through all of the on line manuals and didn't see their recommendation on the 60 hp recommendation, and on their fuel pressure, timing, and torgue management all I saw is not what to run( usually the highest setting) on a stock set up.

Please, more comments, thanks to those that replied.

 

An extra 60 HP will eat the stock trans up eventually. How fast will depend on how you drive and how much you tow. Taller tires and heavier weights accelerate the wear.

Anything more than SW 1 is putting stress on the direct clutches and TC clutch. If you want to use the power adequately you need to address the low trans line pressures and a few weak OEM parts.

The Smarty is fairly adjustable on timing and with the RP & TQ management you can tune it necely. I would go back to the stock CPS.

Is that 13k total weight or just the trailer and boat?

 

Ya, I already decided that I was going to put the stock CPS back in. How do you address the low trans pressure line, and what other weak OEM parts are you speaking of?

AND, that's 13000# just trailer, boat, and cargo.

Thanks

BTW, I would like to run it fairly aggressively, SW 5, (3 for towing), and timing either 2 or 4(for fuel econo) TM on 3( I know that will be an issue with tranny), and rail pressure at 2(mild).

I can drive with a light foot, and 90% of the time do, but I do like to get into her every now and then. So what do I need to upgrade to keep things reliable?

 

The extra power with that load is going to raise havoc with the trans sooner than later. TM 3 is also really hard on the clutches with the low end grunt and low pressures.

At a minimum shift kit, billet front servo cover, billet front band strut and lever. The Transgo kit for the later 48RE's seems to be working well for me and others. It will boost the line pressures where they need to be and ramp them faster for the low end power. That will address the clutches and TC clutch both and minimize the slipping and wear.

The stock TC can be utilized but I think you will see issues with the load and playing on SW #5. The stock TC's tend to warp the front cover when towing heavy and adding extra pressure. ts not something that is going to happen immediately but it is a concern. After 10k on my setup towing lighter and lots of playing on #5 it had loosened the flexplate to TC bolts enough you could see where it was walking the lugs on the plate. You really need a billet cover TC to handle the upgrades.

Now, single disk or triple disk TC is the question. Towing the weight you list I would say spend the bucks and get a good custom Goerends triple disk. A good single disk will work also and may be a better choice if you use the truck for other things than towing and don't tow constantly. The tradeoffs between the triple and single for driveability center around the hard shifting under load and heavy throttle. For some that is a problem if they are using the truck for a commuter vehicle and lots of stop and go driving.

Last but not least, when you change the TC do yourself a favor and have the front clutch packs rebuilt. Depending on miles and use they could be borderline for taking the upgrades and lasting a long time. You need to to drop the pump and replace the reaction rings on the pump hub anyway and the drums are right there behind the pump. The rest of the trans is petty tough and unless you have/had issues should be fine without a total rebuild.