Road Force balancing?
Road Force balancing?
Well I pretty much have the direction I want to go. Chrome Fuel Hostage in 17x9 with Toyo M/T 37x1350 -17.
One place is $17 more than the other; the +$17 (negligible) place includes lugnuts, and uses high speed balance/stick-on weights.
The place that's $17 cheaper does road force balancing, need to obtain my own lug nuts. I'm thinking that is the way to go.
Is Road Force Balancing worth it? I'm reading about, stick-on weights, beads, and all the internet fighting between them.
One place is $17 more than the other; the +$17 (negligible) place includes lugnuts, and uses high speed balance/stick-on weights.
The place that's $17 cheaper does road force balancing, need to obtain my own lug nuts. I'm thinking that is the way to go.
Is Road Force Balancing worth it? I'm reading about, stick-on weights, beads, and all the internet fighting between them.
The Toyos are so precision built,you might not need it.
No amount of Road Force balancing could cure the vibes my BFG's gave me. I switched to Toyos and a standard balance never needs more than 3-4 ozs. of weight to date.
No amount of Road Force balancing could cure the vibes my BFG's gave me. I switched to Toyos and a standard balance never needs more than 3-4 ozs. of weight to date.
Ditto on Toyo QC... I just had new M/Ts 295/70r17s (road force bal) put on and only one tire required more than 2oz, and that was likely a wheel issue because it needed it in the exact spot the previous tire had. One of the Toyo's did not need any weight.
If the tires are set up on a HUNTER GSP-9700 that would be what has been state-of-the-art for about ten years or so now.
It's worth getting the "roadforce" down to what the machine calculates as "25-ozs" or less (the Lexus/Mercedes/Cadillac number) if that is possible. The set of tires on my truck all easily came in below that except for one. Discount Tire manager went to the back and found one that balanced out similar to the rest (Michelins, oem spec). I was happy as the date codes, etc, and now balance numbers were the same on all four.
The last tires went 120k, and these may go more. So, IMO, it's worth any extra trouble to get things as good as possible.
It's worth getting the "roadforce" down to what the machine calculates as "25-ozs" or less (the Lexus/Mercedes/Cadillac number) if that is possible. The set of tires on my truck all easily came in below that except for one. Discount Tire manager went to the back and found one that balanced out similar to the rest (Michelins, oem spec). I was happy as the date codes, etc, and now balance numbers were the same on all four.
The last tires went 120k, and these may go more. So, IMO, it's worth any extra trouble to get things as good as possible.
Sound good. I wish we had a Discount Tire nearby that I could take it back to if I had issues with the balance. Looking at getting them from an online retailer mounted and balanced, so if they're off, then I have no recourse except to pay locally again.
As long as new balancing equipment, good rims, and round tires are used you don't need to force balance. The only other thing is no loose nuts working the balance machine.
I have had it done with cheap tires. I have also had the tires trued up. Shaved round. Hardley anyone shaves tires round anymore.
I have had it done with cheap tires. I have also had the tires trued up. Shaved round. Hardley anyone shaves tires round anymore.
High quality tires from Michelin, Toyo, Yokohama most likely don't need road force balancing. But with road force balancing I did have to break down a rotate one of my Toyo AT tire's when installing on a set of factory alloy rims that I picked up. It exceeded the maximum road force (in lbs) for an LT tire. Spinning the tire on the rim to the exact spot that the Hunter balancer indicated solved the issue.
Road force is good but it's only as good as the person operating it.
MikeyB
Road force is good but it's only as good as the person operating it.
MikeyB
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