Over fueling while trying to build boost.
Over fueling while trying to build boost.
I got to go to the track last night for the first time and had trouble building boost for the launch. I would barely get up to 3 psi and the smoke was unreal. It is just over fueling till boost gets up to around 8+psi. I was using tnt for a few runs and then 4.3 and tried mp-8 on and off.
Even when I try a power brake off the track it will just smoke and smoke it seems to just take too long to build boost.
For the tnt setting I was using #9, timing 2, torque 4, rail 2. Don't get hardly any timing rattle. Did get some rattle while it was over fueling.
If I can get this over fueling figured out I can get my 60 down.
Any and all ideas welcome
Even when I try a power brake off the track it will just smoke and smoke it seems to just take too long to build boost.
For the tnt setting I was using #9, timing 2, torque 4, rail 2. Don't get hardly any timing rattle. Did get some rattle while it was over fueling.
If I can get this over fueling figured out I can get my 60 down.
Any and all ideas welcome
I would say rpms were around 1500 -2000 not sure I will check today. I would need more staging time to get much higher. Is it normal for heavy fuel on take off. Will nos work on low boost?
When trying to build boost are you rolling into the throttle slowly or are you just mashing the pedal to the floor?
If you can get a hold of the TNT/R program then the "shift limiter" option should solve your problem. I also had trouble building boost at the line with the newer Smarty programs, until I turned the "shift limiter" option "off". The difference is unbelievable.
With your setup you really shouldn't need N2O just to build boost at the line.
If you can get a hold of the TNT/R program then the "shift limiter" option should solve your problem. I also had trouble building boost at the line with the newer Smarty programs, until I turned the "shift limiter" option "off". The difference is unbelievable.
With your setup you really shouldn't need N2O just to build boost at the line.
Yea gas will work at low boost. You could use a small shot before the intercooler to get things spooling.
I roll into the throttle real slow. That is pretty much how I have take off anytime I drive.
When you guys take off from a stop without building boost first can you spin the tires fairly easy. When I try I have to build boost first or by the time the smoke clears and boost builds to I am going to fast to spin the tires.
When you guys take off from a stop without building boost first can you spin the tires fairly easy. When I try I have to build boost first or by the time the smoke clears and boost builds to I am going to fast to spin the tires.
I do agree with Jrussell that you should not need N2O but it is VERY effective at getting the turbo to light at low RPM's. The reason I was asking about the RPM's was to see if the converter was too tight, but if you are over 1500 or so that should not be the issue. Besides, you said it would build boost before.
TNT/R would be nice but if you are only concerned with this issue at the track and like the way the Smarty program you have now acts I would run a shot of juice pre-CAC. I have seen where someone had it hooked up to a push button switch and used it to just get the turbo to light at the line in bursts. He was using a BIG single where it should have been compounds.
TNT/R would be nice but if you are only concerned with this issue at the track and like the way the Smarty program you have now acts I would run a shot of juice pre-CAC. I have seen where someone had it hooked up to a push button switch and used it to just get the turbo to light at the line in bursts. He was using a BIG single where it should have been compounds.
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Can you explain the stall speed and were it should be. I used to spool easy before the turbo and injectors. I live out on country roads and when I slow down to say 20-25 for 90 deg corners and then accelerate it will puff smoke. I assume this is normal. I drive mostly with o/d off.
I've been battling lots of smoke since the install. First turbo was bad and I downsized injectors.
I've been battling lots of smoke since the install. First turbo was bad and I downsized injectors.
Can you explain the stall speed and were it should be. I used to spool easy before the turbo and injectors. I live out on country roads and when I slow down to say 20-25 for 90 deg corners and then accelerate it will puff smoke. I assume this is normal. I drive mostly with o/d off.
I've been battling lots of smoke since the install. First turbo was bad and I downsized injectors.
I've been battling lots of smoke since the install. First turbo was bad and I downsized injectors.
Try messing with TQ management settings and if that does not help contact Bob about TNT/R. I do not have an automatic so I do not know what programming you need first hand.
A couple of suggestions.
1. Turn the torque management down to mild (#2). This will make it easier to slowly add fuel with the throttle.
2. Check for an exhaust leak. If you are VERY careful, open the hood, and have someone watch under the hood as you power brake it. Look for smoke at the gasket where the turbo mounts to the exhaust manifold, and also the exhaust manifold gaskets them selves. If they are leaking the smoke will be very visible. Power braking to 10psi is usually all that is required.
3. Reduce the timing. Go from 2 to 3 on the smarty. You should be fine running 2, but it will generally spool at the line faster with 3.
4. Check for boost leaks. You can make a boost leak checker pretty easily. There are threads on here, on how to do it.
Hope this helps...
Paul
1. Turn the torque management down to mild (#2). This will make it easier to slowly add fuel with the throttle.
2. Check for an exhaust leak. If you are VERY careful, open the hood, and have someone watch under the hood as you power brake it. Look for smoke at the gasket where the turbo mounts to the exhaust manifold, and also the exhaust manifold gaskets them selves. If they are leaking the smoke will be very visible. Power braking to 10psi is usually all that is required.
3. Reduce the timing. Go from 2 to 3 on the smarty. You should be fine running 2, but it will generally spool at the line faster with 3.
4. Check for boost leaks. You can make a boost leak checker pretty easily. There are threads on here, on how to do it.
Hope this helps...
Paul


