Well, finally removed what I thought was a bad head with burnt/bent/etc valves. Turns out it was just a blown gasket between cyls. #4 and #5 causing a crossfire event between cylinders. Head checks out at 100% normal for one with 165K+ miles. The thing I'm purplexed about is whether I should save money or build it up using all of the $2000 I've set aside for this.

I was gun ho for going all out, but fuel prices and reality has set in, and I'm looking for realiability more than performance. 2 things I know I'll be doing is getting rid of my nitrous kit and running fuel only with an II Stg2 CP3. So I got a few Q's.


1. I will be keeping everything else as I have it now, and reducing my play time and time at the track etc. So I'm wondering if I should pop for perf. valve springs? Truck never sees over 3650 rpms.

2. What about studs? Think their needed? The cuprit of the head gasket was linked to an (unknown at the time) over fueling injector #5 with added nitrous causing unequal/hi cyl pressures between 4 & 5.

 

The studs would be a good set of insurance, even without the nitrous. Now as far as serious head work, if you plan on settling down with the racing, I would keep my money.

 

I would definatley do the studs while you are there and since you got the coin and you do have 165k on it I would opt for the springs too. JMO

 

SO, does anyone think I should rebuild or just reuse what I have??? Thru a few more phone calls, I've decided on getting an ATS exhaust manifold ($470+/-) also. I have a buddy who's willing to swap his stage2 CP3 for my stock one +$600. So that leaves me enough $$$ to either save or spend on a rebuild (locally quoted price of $650 or less) depending on what i want/need done to the cyl head.

 

Add Studs and springs to that and I'd think you'd have a pretty solid rig. Not to mention with the few other goodies you picked up being under the $2k mark.

On a side note how do you like that PS 62/14?

 

Valve springs will add performance everyday as they give better opening and closing performance. Stock valves begin to float over 3000rpm....piston contact can happen over 3400 with high cylinder pressures.

You can port and polish the head yourself...if you have about 20 to 40 hours to spare. All that's needed is a small die grinder with a couple good carbide cutters and a half dozen coarse round stones to make things rounded.

At 165k I'd plane the head replace all the valves with Cummins valves (some people sub crap to save a buck), use new oversize seats, and good Cummins guides and Sportsmans's Springs, Deck the block ( you can do a pretty good job of this yourself if your up to it... and you should be good for a better performance 165k.

 

If just doin the exh. side and what can be reached of the intake side does a guy need to mic. how much you take off to be on the safe side or is the danger of cracks and thining minimal if all you do is smooth out rough cast?

 

I agree with my fellow Canuck about all!! and with porting all the internal ruff castings, it will increase air flow and to go a step further you can CC it to equalize air flow in each journal and one more further polish it, use the small flap wheel or drum sand'n wheel for the die grinder
I would also re-surface the head to ensure a flat contact & definitely studs will help.... Best of luck

 

fire ring the bad boy! just in case. and if you did, you would have no more head gasket issues.

 

Most of the airflow is gained porting the bowl area of the head which is under the valve. Take out the excess metal around the guide also widening of the shortside radias which is floor of runner also helps flow. This can be done on both the intake and exhaust side an on exhaust side you can gasket match to manifold an polish exh. runner just remember to always keep head a tad smaller. No mic is needed just use old gasket as template an mark head sharpie type marker. The idea is to get the air in an out around the valve as easily as possible the cc of the runner isn't as important as the shape. If you take your time you can get each runner close without a flowbench an get 80% flow of what most shops charge $1000 for in your own garage. If possible find a junk head gas are diesel to practice on to make things come out smooth. Hope this helps a little.

 

I wont be tearin it down until later this summer but when I do Im planning on doin the inj. up to maybe 4.5's and a cam and springs and atleast the exh side so I may inquire a little more then but the old gasket idea sounds real similar to what I read on gassers years ago. Good info.

 

Man this thread makes me want to get my head dun the only thing is down time. I would like 2 get a second unit so I can take my time on it
any one knows where I can get HEAD cheap Seriously!!!!!!!

 

skip the ATS manafold and get a cam.

You said you want to improve mpg and want to focus more on durability a longevity and a cam will definetly fill your needs alot better then a exhaust manafold.

Cams for our trucks are more about a better running more efficent engine then making more power.

 

That kinda hard to take, sorry but a cam only control's lift 4 more fuel & duration 4 how long it dumps it ..... now I could be blow'n $hjt outa my spinkster

 

Huh? The cam doesnt have anything to do with fuel delivery