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Need ideas. Xfer Case Skid Plate bolts tightened too far.

Old Oct 16, 2008 | 07:10 PM
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Need ideas. Xfer Case Skid Plate bolts tightened too far.

Ok, so installing the skid plate crossmember tonight I tried torqueing the bolts down to the specified 40ft lbs and it appears that I tightened them too far to the point where they aren't loose, but they are definitely not as tight as I want them to be (ie I may have stripped the threads in the frame).

Those factory bolts are M8x1.25x30mm self threading

Do you guys think that some M8x1.25 fully threaded grade 8 bolts with thread-lock applied will do the job or am I going to have to use the next size up (M10?). One bolt on each side seems to be tightened properly, but the other "keeps spinning", just not as tight (if you know what I mean). Dodge definitely screwed up here specifying 40ftlbs of torque on those bolts when it is impossible w/o stripping them.

Thanks,

Chris
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rallydriver
Ok, so installing the skid plate crossmember tonight I tried torqueing the bolts down to the specified 40ft lbs and it appears that I tightened them too far to the point where they aren't loose, but they are definitely not as tight as I want them to be (ie I may have stripped the threads in the frame).

Those factory bolts are M8x1.25x30mm self threading

Do you guys think that some M8x1.25 fully threaded grade 8 bolts with thread-lock applied will do the job or am I going to have to use the next size up (M10?). One bolt on each side seems to be tightened properly, but the other "keeps spinning", just not as tight (if you know what I mean). Dodge definitely screwed up here specifying 40ftlbs of torque on those bolts when it is impossible w/o stripping them.

Thanks,

Chris


Not sure, use the red/271 I think or go get some 5min JB Weld. Bolt may never come out.

Is this the xfer case support cross member or the one between that and the fuel tank.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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?

Any way you could get a longer bolt and put a nut on it?
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pos dodge
Any way you could get a longer bolt and put a nut on it?
The bolt goes into the frame and the frame is fully boxed.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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this just happend to my brothers cammaro on the tranny crossmember. We have these things called HELI-COILS you r parts stroe should have them ive used them in evrything from exhaust manifolds do putting steel threads in aluminum.

You drill the hole out a litlte bigger tap it witht he suplied tap and you turn in the new threads and you actualy use the original bolt and you can tighten them past 40 fot pounds for sure.

http://www.helicoil.in/

hope this helps
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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I'd install the next lerger bolt or use nutserts. I just used nuserts to mount an air system to the frame on a clients ride since welding was not an option.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Im with Kenny D, use heli coils they work great and are alot stronger than the originals.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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I would jump to the m10.
if they are self tapping bolts dodge problly specs 40ft-lbs to install cuz they are cutting the treads the first time they install the bolts.
Also it is really easy to cross thread self tappers so that maybe why some worked and others did not.
You may want to drill & tap the frame for the M10s this way you can get away from self tappers.

thats my 10 cents
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 02:18 AM
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I would helicoil the holes but if they are self tappers as mention above then you may have damaged then threads by re-cutting new threads and they will surely damage helicoils so you need to go to standard bolts.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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I went to Lowes and picked up some high strength steel M8x1.25x30mm fully threaded bolts and red threadlock and was able to carefully unthread the "self threads" that came with the kit and install the new bolts. All seemed to tighten sufficiently to the point where it feels more secure than before. Thankfully I didn't strip out the threads in the frame (too badly).

-Chris
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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I had the same issue on mine. I figured out after stripping the first hole that the frame wall thickness was to thin for 40 ftlbs of torque. So I only have one stripped hole. I used the red thread locker and the bolt hasn't fallen out yet after 2 years.
You could go to a larger bolt but you will still have the same issue with the bolt stripping out if you try to torque to 40. I'm not familiar with nutserts but that may be an option to get the plate secured tightly. Seems like we need something expandable like you use in drywall for anchoring.
Helicoils might work, but since they also screw in you are only getting a couple of threads for an anchor. I'd like some thing a little more substantial when I'm hanging my truck on a rock with that plate.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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Compared to the front diff guard that I just got, the crossmember is a joke and the factory xfer case skid plate is more of a "kid plate". This diff guard is 1/4" steel and looks like it would definitely take some serious hits from off road rocks while protecting the steering and axle components.

The factory skid, however, is still better than nothing.

-Chris
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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Update:

Went offroading this past weekend at Rausch Creek Off Road Park in PA. Took some hits on both the Defiant diff guard and the xfer case skid. The cross member and 12.9 Grade Metric bolts held up fine, the xfer case skid plate itself slightly taco'd up from an impact (definitely won't take too many more hits). The diff guard was heavily chipped and scratched underneath but did its job. It still has plenty of material left to abuse (1/4" steel).

-Chris
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