I am planning to make some mods to my transmission. Basically, I would like to replace the torque converter and valve body to reduce slippage and to improve shifts. Some of the tranny companies have told me I also need a billet input shaft and a stronger flex plate while other companies say I don't. One company told me that I should not replace the valve body because the stock 06 already has enough line pressure. I think I should replace the valve body but my gut tells me that I would not have to replace the shafts nor the flex plate because I don't drag race, pull sleds, etc. However, I do pull a 14K 5th-wheel and the truck is equipped with an exhaust brake. I also may puchase a performance module to add 60 to 80 horsepower. So, what are your thoughts; do I need to install a new billet input shaft and flex plate or not? I have been struggling with this issue for awhile and would like to get a decision made and move on. Your input would be much appreciated.

 

If it were me, I would wait until my warranty won't cover anything anymore, then do a FULL buildup. Flexplate, converter, VB and shafts. When weighed against the price of re-doing the transmission again and adding these parts and putting them in the first time, I think you would be better off to do it all at once.

 

If you don't plan on sled pulling or drag racing, or even turning the power up on your truck at ALL...I think that I would just go with the valve bodies. They will add line pressure into your tranny, causing your torque converter to lock into gear firmer, your shift points will be improved, and your transmission temperatures will go down (especially if you add a double deep pan). The reason that they are suggesting that you get a new billet input shaft and flex plate is because when you start adding a bunch of stuff, such as valve bodies AND a torque converter, you make the other stock parts the "weak points"...especially the thin stock flex plate. But like I said, if you don't plan on building power, I don't think that you would want/need anything other than some good valve bodies. This is my my two cents. Others will have other opinions, though...

It is NEVER BAD to go all out...you'll bullet proof your truck by doing so, but if your plans are just to tow, I think you would be fine.

 

vzdude, the truck only had a 36,000 mile warranty on the tranny. The engine warranty is either for 70,000 or 100,000 miles but the warranty on the rest of the truck is 36,000 miles. I currently have 36,500 mile on the truck. Thats why I want to go ahead with the tranny mods.

 

I second that a good valve body and maybe a single disk convertor will be plenty

 

Based on the comments thus far, it does not sound like I need to go beyond installing a valve body and torque converter if I do not add horsepower. In my original post I said that I plan to add 60-80 horsepower. Would this small horsepower mod change any of your opinions? I sure would like to get more comments before I make this significant investment.

 

If you plan to just add 60-80 hp you'll be fine. The only problem is just adding 60-80 hp. Most people get infected with the power bug after only adding that much and then want to add a little more and then a little more. Next thing you know your pushing 5-600 hp out of your truck and thirsting for more.

 

I think you will be fine. if you have gauges to watch your tranny temps and if it never gets hot I would not change it around. A built trans is great but if you dont plan on big mods I think you would be wasting your money. if you still dont feel comfortable with stock stuff get a valve body first

 

The things that I do not like about my tranny that I would like to fix with mods are:
1. When towing my 14K 5th-wheel, and trying to take off up a hill, the torque converter slippage is unacceptable to me while it is unlocked. To minimize this problem, I go real easy on the accelerator until i build up enough speed for the t/c to lock. It takes a long time to build up enough speed to lock the t/c if you are going light on the accelerator. This is especially a problem if you are trying to merge into traffic.
2. When towing and the tranny down shifts to a lower gear, the torque converter unlocks with lots of slippage before locking again.
3. When towing I manually shift through the gears so that the torque converter will lock in 2nd. When I manually shift from locked 2nd to 3rd, the torque converter unlocks with lots of slippage and then relocks. To avoid this I have to let off the accelerator and wait until the tranny locks and then get back on the accelerator.
4. When empty and I am trying to pass another vehicle, the transmission usually downshifts to 3rd. When it downshifts the t/c unlocks with unacceptable slippage. To avoid this, i have to go easy on the accelerator so that the transmission will not down shift.

 

an aftermarket TC and VB will definitely fix most of that slippage problem.

If I were you though, I'd still go ahead and get a billet flexplate. I've seen several cases of the stock one turning to shrapnel and when it does, it can take out your new TC. They aren't that expensive ($500'ish) and good insurance to protect your other investments. You'll have to pull the trans to put the TC in anyway, so the flexplate can be done at the same time.

 

A simple TC lock-up switch will solve a lot of these problems.

You definitely want to get a laminated or billet flexplate though.

 

[QUOTE=jrussell;1563642]A simple TC lock-up switch will solve a lot of these problems.

Yes, do a search for mystery switch.

I just did the trans upgrade. I learned that a stock trans can break the input shaft. A Heavy duty or triple disk TC pulling 14K on a rough surface is playing with fire. Lock the TC and pull the 14K trailer out of a hole will cost you about 5000 in trans repair PLUS towing. Not good on a vacation. Go ahead an get the billet input ( but it is not cheap) great peace of mind.

IMO

 

Give me a call at 786-543-9176, Also where are you located?

Richard

 

Yeah, but I don't think he wants to be letting his tranny shift gears with a locked TC and a 14klb load!

The TC unlocks to shift for a reason. Unless you have a $7k fully built tranny, I would not suggest a lockup switch.
If you get a good quality 3 disc TC, the stall speed will be much less and you will hardly even feel what you are describing - IF you even feel it at all.

 

Good point.

You're absolutely right about the quality TC too. I can hardly tell when mine is locked or unlocked now.

I think the switch would still help by preventing the downshifts he was describing though.