I just ordered my ARP head studs, and have tried reading up on the opinions...does anyone have pics of what needs to be grinded? Is it the rocker box, or the head stud itself???? Also, from what I'm reading, I can replace one at a time, torque them down and move X ways to the next?
Thanks for the help.....

 

No grinding needed if you bottom tap the block (do it right the first time!).

I wont even install studs if I am not bottom tapping again...

 

I could use this info as well.

PD, do you bottom tap all the holes or is it just one or two in the back?

 

Don't need to bottom tap. The ARP studs will screw in deeper than the stock bolts. The lower rocker box has to be notched at the rear stud and can easily be done with a round file or better a dremal tool. Takes about 15 mins. You can see where it needs to be notched by setting it in after your studs are installed. You will have to take all your exhaust rockers off and #5 and #6 intake rockers. The rest of the rockers will just have to be loosened. It will help to have a short wobble extension when torquing down the studs. You will want something soft to lay on like old pillows and bed comforters while you get your work out torquing down the studs. You may want to adjust your rocker arms while you have the the valve cover off. Takes about 30 mins.

 

You can do it one at a time without hurting the head gasket I have done it many times. You will see what needs to be ground when you go to put the spacer on it no big deal at all. I like to torque them down to 130 ftlbs and forget about it. I did my first set at 96 and had to keep retorqueing them, then I torqued them to 130 and they never came loose. I have done that on every one I do and rechecked a few but they all stay tight even at 30,000 miles since putting them in. Thats just my two cents .

 

what is the tap size needed to bottom tap the block?

 

Do a search on the tap size. You can find it there. One thing I've run into no mine and another buddy's block is that we didn't need to bottom tap. The studs ran all the way down and stick out one maybe two threads over the top of the nut. I tried bottom tapping one and after one full turn on the tap it stopped and wouldn't go any further so I may have gotten one extra thread but I doubt it. Regardless you should try bottom tapping all of them and cleaning the threads out.

 

Isnt it also a good idea to clean them out just so you get a accurate torque reading? Instead of the chance of shavings or debri being in there and giving you a false torque reading...

 

Oh yeah. Most definately. And I did clean mine out and so did my buddy before we installed them. A lotta stuff came out.

 

I think I will call Haisley. They are down the road

 

What method do you use to clean em out?

 

One I know of from doing head swaps on 350s/302s/351s is take an old head bolt, cut a groove(or two) on the threads(straight up and down, parrallel with the bolt) and it will clean out the threads and bring the crud out, sort of like a tap when you tap a hole, back it off 1/4 or 1/2 turn and it collects in the open area of the tap threads....

 

I ran a tap down and then blew compressed air down in there. If I had a shop vac I woulda stuffed that down in there to help.

 

YOU!!!! ain't got a shop vac???? What's your addy, I'll send you one for free, just becuase you're so cool... PM me....

 

i would definitly bottom tap them. you need all the thread you can get. there aint no since of half ***'n the project.