Anyone else have problems with removing the drain plugs or dipsticks from your Maghytech diff covers? I tried removing the dipstick a couple weeks ago and it wouldn't budge. I ended up rounding the edges of the hex inside the dipstick and had to order a new one. Took a pipe wrench to get the old one off. Then yesterday tried to remove the drain plug, and had the same problem. Used a 15 inch breaker bar and hex socket and still couldn't get it loose. Used an impact and nothing.

Called Maghytech and their customer service SUCKS!!..

I was told to use a hammer and a punch to break it loose. Now i'm not an engineer, but it seems the force of a hammer and punch wouldn't be nearly enough as an impact or breaker bar, let alone would certainly damage the surface and finish. Anyone have any idea's?

I have to say, as a business owner, if I sent someone a product that clearly was defective, I would never suggest them beating on it with a hammer, and would just send a new one out... Am I wrong here?

 

I had the same issues getting the plug out initially. What worked the best for me was to heat the plug with a torch and let it cool. Plug came out easy. Then I installed a new O-ring and applied anti-seize on the threads. Don't over tighten.

On the dipstick I used a pair of vice grips to break it loose. Again, I use the little anti-seize compound when putting the dipstick back in.

 

^^^ this for the win.

 

ALuminum threads tend to gall…like other have said, use antisieze on both the dipstick and drain plug threads…don't worry, they won't loosen up on you by using antisieze, as long as you torque them correctly.

 

Anti-seize is amazing stuff. I was weary adding it to my lug studs going to aluminum rims and acorn nuts- but they maintain torque specs even with the anti-seize on the threads. Good stuff!

 

Actually, there IS a difference between dry and wet torque specifications. Depending on the lubricant used, required torque to fasten can vary as much as by 40%, with the dry specs using the higher foot pound values. This is simply because antisieze, or other thread "lubricant" allows the threads to turn more easily and thus they reach their "stretch" limit sooner!! A decent rule of thumb is to reduce torque values on fasteners that use antisieze by 10 to 20 percent, but one can also refer to the Handymans Pocket Reference guide for more specific values.

 

Mine was like that on the original drain 8 years ago. I tapped it a couple times with a deadblow hammer and it came right out with a hand held allen wrench. I greased it up since then with zero issues.

 

I had one on a 97. I swear if I tightened it to 10 ft/lbs, it took 200 ft/lbs to take it out. Same thing with the engine drain plug. Craig