Ladder Bar Review
Well, I had a horrible experience in my truck while trying to climb a small hill. It was a sand, small rock base, & I was going slow & then suddenly the truck started hopping so violently that I thought I broke something.
It was quite embarrassing to have a $35K truck do that.
I then came home and did a research on what this could be. It was a VERY COMMON problem called "wheel-hop". Guys experienced it in the snow, soft dirt and sand. It can do some major damage to the truck drive train parts, as the wheel-hop is so violent and brutal on u-joints, differential, etc.. Basically, the leaf springs twist and start to snap back so quickly and violently that it causes the wheel-hop. In the end, it is NOT GOOD to your truck. So, with my research I decided to get the GDP Ladder Bars. www.glacierdieselpower.com
WOW!
I installed them the night before and took the truck out for a 100 mile road test. There is a GREAT improvement. The way I describe it, is that it is like having 1000LBS of weight in the bed, the rear-end is PLANTED.
Before the back-end was VERY "hoppy", "wobbly" and "jiggly". When going over bumps the back-end would dance around and felt unstable at times.
Now, with the GDP Bars, the read-end is glued to the ground. Any bumps in the road, the truck handled great and the back-end stayed planted, it no longer wobbled and danced around like it used to. I haven't had a chance to try them in the snow or sand but I know that my wheel-hop WILL BE GONE! The truck handles better and feels much more stable on the road.
So, unless you drive around with 1,000LBS+ in your bed, I highly recommend the bars. They will eliminate wheel hop, the truck will handle better and be a lot more stable on bumpy roads. Plus, they are a TRUE bolt-on. I had to do no drilling. The only thing I had to do was slightly bend the brake-line bracket on the pass-side to get clearance (took 1 minute). I used Synthetic Disc Brake Caliper Grease on the bushings and bolt sleeves.
I love them!
Now, my truck won't rattle my fillings loose again.
It was quite embarrassing to have a $35K truck do that.I then came home and did a research on what this could be. It was a VERY COMMON problem called "wheel-hop". Guys experienced it in the snow, soft dirt and sand. It can do some major damage to the truck drive train parts, as the wheel-hop is so violent and brutal on u-joints, differential, etc.. Basically, the leaf springs twist and start to snap back so quickly and violently that it causes the wheel-hop. In the end, it is NOT GOOD to your truck. So, with my research I decided to get the GDP Ladder Bars. www.glacierdieselpower.com
WOW!
I installed them the night before and took the truck out for a 100 mile road test. There is a GREAT improvement. The way I describe it, is that it is like having 1000LBS of weight in the bed, the rear-end is PLANTED.
Before the back-end was VERY "hoppy", "wobbly" and "jiggly". When going over bumps the back-end would dance around and felt unstable at times. Now, with the GDP Bars, the read-end is glued to the ground. Any bumps in the road, the truck handled great and the back-end stayed planted, it no longer wobbled and danced around like it used to. I haven't had a chance to try them in the snow or sand but I know that my wheel-hop WILL BE GONE! The truck handles better and feels much more stable on the road.
So, unless you drive around with 1,000LBS+ in your bed, I highly recommend the bars. They will eliminate wheel hop, the truck will handle better and be a lot more stable on bumpy roads. Plus, they are a TRUE bolt-on. I had to do no drilling. The only thing I had to do was slightly bend the brake-line bracket on the pass-side to get clearance (took 1 minute). I used Synthetic Disc Brake Caliper Grease on the bushings and bolt sleeves.
I love them!
Now, my truck won't rattle my fillings loose again.
So Think you could give me a different kind of review for them rather then just the 1K lbs one??
I really want to find a solution thats why I ask
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Thanks for the in depth review Pet05! I have been on the fence about getting the GDP ladder bars myself. I think I will have to shell out some $$ in the near future for a set...
Vinceg99-
OK, here is a better termed reivew:
Every GDP Bars come with double 1/2" u-bolt rear mounts that require no modification to the truck or welding. Our unique bolt-on front pivot mount allows forward and rearward travel of the axle during suspension flex while eliminating rear wheel "hop". As a side benefit empty ride quality and stability are greatly enhanced!
The GDP Ladder Bars DO ALLOW for movement. That is why we use a front pivot system. The bars that use a rigid front mount are the ones that either break or cause driveline wear. Our front pivot moves forward 1.30" and rearward 1.10" during suspension flex. Can you imagine what would happen with a rigid front mount? Something has to give somewhere.
That's why we refuse to build rigid front mounts even though it has cost me some sale. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I knew that something I built could cause harm to a customers vehicle.
In the end WHEEL-HOP is GONE!!
OK, here is a better termed reivew:
Every GDP Bars come with double 1/2" u-bolt rear mounts that require no modification to the truck or welding. Our unique bolt-on front pivot mount allows forward and rearward travel of the axle during suspension flex while eliminating rear wheel "hop". As a side benefit empty ride quality and stability are greatly enhanced!
The GDP Ladder Bars DO ALLOW for movement. That is why we use a front pivot system. The bars that use a rigid front mount are the ones that either break or cause driveline wear. Our front pivot moves forward 1.30" and rearward 1.10" during suspension flex. Can you imagine what would happen with a rigid front mount? Something has to give somewhere.
That's why we refuse to build rigid front mounts even though it has cost me some sale. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I knew that something I built could cause harm to a customers vehicle.
In the end WHEEL-HOP is GONE!!
They are built strong enough to withstand any CTD, and keep the pinion angle where you adjust it to; of course, they are bolt-on.
Wheelhop has been eliminated, and weight transfer has benefited greatly due to the leverage of the long bars.
Vinceg99-
OK, here is a better termed reivew:
Every GDP Bars come with double 1/2" u-bolt rear mounts that require no modification to the truck or welding. Our unique bolt-on front pivot mount allows forward and rearward travel of the axle during suspension flex while eliminating rear wheel "hop". As a side benefit empty ride quality and stability are greatly enhanced!
The GDP Ladder Bars DO ALLOW for movement. That is why we use a front pivot system. The bars that use a rigid front mount are the ones that either break or cause driveline wear. Our front pivot moves forward 1.30" and rearward 1.10" during suspension flex. Can you imagine what would happen with a rigid front mount? Something has to give somewhere.
That's why we refuse to build rigid front mounts even though it has cost me some sale. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I knew that something I built could cause harm to a customers vehicle.
In the end WHEEL-HOP is GONE!!
OK, here is a better termed reivew:
Every GDP Bars come with double 1/2" u-bolt rear mounts that require no modification to the truck or welding. Our unique bolt-on front pivot mount allows forward and rearward travel of the axle during suspension flex while eliminating rear wheel "hop". As a side benefit empty ride quality and stability are greatly enhanced!
The GDP Ladder Bars DO ALLOW for movement. That is why we use a front pivot system. The bars that use a rigid front mount are the ones that either break or cause driveline wear. Our front pivot moves forward 1.30" and rearward 1.10" during suspension flex. Can you imagine what would happen with a rigid front mount? Something has to give somewhere.
That's why we refuse to build rigid front mounts even though it has cost me some sale. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I knew that something I built could cause harm to a customers vehicle.
In the end WHEEL-HOP is GONE!!

Also seeing how they mount would those affect step bars at all?
I have to agree. Richards bars are very well built and make a extreme difference.
I posted some pics here....for those interested in the set up.
I didn't really appreciate the bright red lettering inserted by a mod
though. All that was completely unnecessary.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...bars+installed
I posted some pics here....for those interested in the set up.
I didn't really appreciate the bright red lettering inserted by a mod
though. All that was completely unnecessary.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...bars+installed
Vinceg99 -
I went with the standard STRIPPER bars as they are lighter. There is NO WAY that even the lighter/thinner stripper bars would bend compared to the SLEDDING heavier/thicker bars. UNLESS, one is SLEDDING then get the thicker bars but for normal street, towing, hauling, even racing use, the stripper bars are MORE than adequate, plus they weigh less.....
I went with the standard STRIPPER bars as they are lighter. There is NO WAY that even the lighter/thinner stripper bars would bend compared to the SLEDDING heavier/thicker bars. UNLESS, one is SLEDDING then get the thicker bars but for normal street, towing, hauling, even racing use, the stripper bars are MORE than adequate, plus they weigh less.....
yeah i have been wanting a set of Richard's bar for a while now just been waiting to get to them. tranny has to come first though. but i can't wait to get a set of these strippers on my truck. the positive reviews just make it harder and harder.


