Ive been searching, here.

Im about to install a sending unit, for my QZ fp/lp gauge. Im installing it at the supply line, on the CP3, using a tapped banjo bolt. I dont want it at the filter housing.

So, ...Im sure Ill have to bleed the air out of the lines, before I try to start my truck, , ...right? Im only filmiliar with the VP 44.

Is this where I bleed it, on this pump??? And, I dont have to bleed the system when I change the fuel filter???? I thought you had to.

 

I havent had to bleed the lines on any of the CRs that I put new pumps in. Unlike the VP trucks. The pump must bleed itself. The thing you have circled is Cascade Overflow Valve.

 

Cool. So when I take the banjo bolt out, and some fuel spills out, ...I dont have to get the air out.?.?

I want to be sure. I dont want to have to bleed the injectors. I dont have someone here, to help.

Whats a CR, btw?

 

You might have to bleed the isolator line from the tapped banjo bolt to the fuel pressure sender. If you do this get an old water hose and slip it over the end and put that end into an empty 2 liter bottle.

Then bump the starter, the fuel pump will run for a while and purge the line good.

Just keep the little bit of diesel in the 2 liter bottle for burning brush or something.

Also keep your short length of water hose around too. When it comes time to drain your fuel bowl to change a fuel filter, the water hose will slip snugly onto the fuel drain line and allow you to catch the drained fuel in a 2 liter bottle.

 

Common Rail

 

Thats a great tip Dave!

 

Thats not my picture. Im installing a sender, from quadzilla, ....not an isolator.

Im about to go outside and do it. Im going to go ahead and change the fuel filter, too. I just found a couple of napa gold (wix) filter, that I had bout for my 98.5. I looked it up, and theyre the same part number. All (00-07).

Ive had the truck for a month, and I havent changed it. For some reason, I just thought about it, today.

 

You guys were right. The CP3 needs no priming. I got my gauges hooked up, and everythings cool.

One tip, though..... When changing the fuel filter, dont forget to close the drain valve, before you go to start your truck. I sat in the truck thinking "why isnt it building any pressure", meanwhile Im pumping diesel onto my driveway.

 

thats will pi$$ you off... at $3.50 a gallon

 

I didnt close the drain valve the first time I changed my fuel filter too. I bumped the starter to fill the bowl and remember my brother yelling not to do it again!

Kinda late for it, but another tip when changing your fuel filter is to get a big zip lock bag, open it up and stuff it beside the fuel filter canister as best you can. When you pop the filter out just drop it and the canister lid right in the open bag. When you pull the bag out of the engine compartment then go about getting the lid off. Its a lot less messy, at least it was for me.

 

Do my pressures seem normal????

I have a factory intank pump. I get 9-10 psi (LP), at idle, ...and about 6psi, at wot. The rail pressure is around 6500-6700 psi, and goes up to around 24000psi, wide open. Thats on stock settings. I pulled the edge box off, last night, so I can send it in.

Also, Im glad I did the filter last night. There was all kinds of sediment in the bottom of the filter housing.

 

I think that is good pressure. Mine is different because I have an XZT. Mine reads about 7 or 8 at idle (canister mounted pump) and can bring PSi down to 0 at wot. Rail is about 7,000 to 7700 at idle. The XZT does add pressure.

 

Been there, done that. I bet I pumped 3 gallons out before realizing what I did.

 

I forgot the drain...once. I would also be very careful about disturbing the sediment in the filter housing. Once the filter is out the sediment can go right down the filter stem and into the fuel system contaminating it and posiibly ruinin an injector or CP3.

 

me to, after I installed my gdp 2 micron and big line kit