Man, I swear I dont ever need to work on my truck again, but I went to install springs and studs, so the injectors came out, well...

I went to start and a lot of white smoke (expected) but the thing sounds and feels like its got a monster cam in it, it shakes and feels like a top fuel nitro car. So is this from over tighting the connector tube or what? Because I followed the DDP website injectors install PDF, but as you can tell I screwed something up. Also there is a nice sounding knock coming from the engine.

 

Not sure if this is your problem but did you install the injector wires correctly? Here is a pic of mine.

 

did you set your valve lash after the spring install ? If you didn't follow the torque specs to a T, you may have done things too tight. I say this cause you broke the one injector bolt. The copper washer on the injectors are very soft and have to be the correct thickness for the tubes to be in the right place. If the cross over tubes are installed too tight, they may not be seated well. They're very soft also and their tips will be deformed if the correct torque isn't used.

My guess is you valve lash is out and I do hope for you trucks sake, they aren't any metal piece that got down to the pistons from that intake problem.

 

I did put the wires on correct. I did do the lash Ill recheck it.For the metal pieces I had a shop vac in there so hopefully it got everything.

 

maybe the rail sensor plug is backwards? that would make it idle bad and sound like a cold 12v truck

 

Does ddp stand for dynomite diesel performance??

 

You are correct.

 

When you take the injectors out and put them back in do you need to use a new copper washer? If the tubes were tightend to much can you just loosen and re-torque, or do you need to get new transfer tubes?

 

most comon error i see is guys tightening the injector before the conector tubes, causeing an alighnment issue and poor seal.

ive also been seeing ALOT of over crushed washers etc..... its in/lb's people.. not ft/lbs!

 

I know i will be yelled at but I wont change a set of injectors or do any kinda injector remove and replacement with out new connector tubes. there like 120 bucks. plus cummins recomends it for a reason!

 

Well, I installed the injector first then the tubes, do you think this could be the problem?

I was thinking about it though I thought the injector install though if you have everything to tight it would cause a hard start, but this crazy idle, isnt that more on the rail pressure? also I dont know if this matters my rail PSI at idle is about 1.5k more than it was.


Also, thinking about it with the Re-Lashing the valves I only one I changed quite a bit was #1 intake, the rest were all fine, and when it went to turn the engine over when it got to TDC it became almost impossible to turn the engine over, but was a lot easier any where else except TDC. Is this normal? When I had the springs, injectors, and rockers out it was easy as pie to rotate the crank shaft, but when everything went back together it was a lot hard to turn it over, Im assuming from compressing the springs and now the compression from the motor, does this sound right?

Sorry, for the dumb questions Im just trying to get this thing running right again.

 

When you installed the injectors did you do it by the book? First torque the injectors down to 44 in lbs, then back off the tension on the bolts. Install the injector tubes to 11 ft. lbs, then torque the injector to 89 inch lbs and then the tubes to 37 ft lbs.

MikeyB

 

If you had to do a lot of adjustment something is wrong!
Pull that tower and check that the push tube is down in the tappet (they can sit up on the edge) and also check that they didn't get bent. Also look at the where the rocker tower mates to the head and make sure its down proper there.

 

I would assume what ratsun and Mikeyb said.

 

Brandon, have you been doing the work without and instructions ? There's a lot of torque specs that have to be used when doing the work you did.

Yes, the injectors go in first and need to be seated correctly with a temporary torque down. Then the tubes are installed and again with a temporary torque down. Then back to the injectors for a permanent torque and the back to the tubes for a permanent torque.

Cummins recommends replacing the tubes and copper washer every time the injectors are out. You can get away with reused both but, it's not something I'd do as there always that chance you'll have a leak. Knowing you have that leak could take a while and in the mean time, fuel is dumping into the oil.

Justin, yes you should replace the copper washers. They're suppose to have a thickness of 1.5mm and their whole purpose is to align the injectors to the tube. There's no room for error when installing them. Unlike the 12v truck that can use different washer to add or take away timing... the CR injectors have one place they can be..... dead on with the tube.