Homemade Walbro Kit, my version
Homemade Walbro Kit, my version
Thanks to 8mpg for all the help. He had an awesome write-up that allowed me to approach this project with some confidence. I took some pictures, so I don't have to type as much.
The Walbro pump and 26psi relief valve are mounted on the outer side of the left (drivers) frame rail. There is a 20A in-line fuse right next to the pump. I'm probably going to move that to under the hood (next to the relay).
The fill neck return photo is pretty self-explanitory. The other line you see in the background is the gravity feed from the in-bed aux tank into the fill neck breather line (that's the 3/4" line).
The "Checkvalve Manifold" is what makes this set-up so cool, IMHO. It's mounted on the inside of the left frame rail. Those check valves look just like short nipples from the outside. They crack at 1 psi and don't let any fuel flow in the "wrong" direction. I actually cut the stock supply (steel) line and mounted this manifold in.
The gauge is mechanical, and is fed from the tapped banjo bolt on the CP3. The switch is run thru a relay under the hood. The on-on toggle switch, combined with the checkvalve manifold, allows me to flip back and forth between the stock LP and Walbro with "just the flip of the switch."
The damage to the pocket book looks to be around $360, and that includes the gauge, and the ability to switch pumps at will.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Steve
The Walbro pump and 26psi relief valve are mounted on the outer side of the left (drivers) frame rail. There is a 20A in-line fuse right next to the pump. I'm probably going to move that to under the hood (next to the relay).
The fill neck return photo is pretty self-explanitory. The other line you see in the background is the gravity feed from the in-bed aux tank into the fill neck breather line (that's the 3/4" line).
The "Checkvalve Manifold" is what makes this set-up so cool, IMHO. It's mounted on the inside of the left frame rail. Those check valves look just like short nipples from the outside. They crack at 1 psi and don't let any fuel flow in the "wrong" direction. I actually cut the stock supply (steel) line and mounted this manifold in.
The gauge is mechanical, and is fed from the tapped banjo bolt on the CP3. The switch is run thru a relay under the hood. The on-on toggle switch, combined with the checkvalve manifold, allows me to flip back and forth between the stock LP and Walbro with "just the flip of the switch."
The damage to the pocket book looks to be around $360, and that includes the gauge, and the ability to switch pumps at will.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Steve
good deal man... Glad you got her all fixed up. I like your idea of the two check valves...if I could redo mine, I would do it that way to. I just didnt want to wait another week on ordering another check valve.
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I got the relief valve here:
http://goodvibesracing.com/check_val...components.htm
I got the AN6 CHECK VALVE 25psi, and it runs 26-28 psi.
And I second 8mpg's comment on needing a 2nd person to drop the tank.
http://goodvibesracing.com/check_val...components.htm
I got the AN6 CHECK VALVE 25psi, and it runs 26-28 psi.
And I second 8mpg's comment on needing a 2nd person to drop the tank.
And I got the 2 check valves here:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=04108601
The rest of the 3/8" brass fittings came from either Home Depot or Lowe's.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=04108601
The rest of the 3/8" brass fittings came from either Home Depot or Lowe's.
The gauge doesn't flutter or make noise. None at all. It's an Autometer # 2173 (http://autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail...earch&gid=2813) from ebay for under $40.


