Here's the deal, been running fine except throwing heater grid voltage stuff (heater grid delete). I clear it up at lunch time. It only throws the check light when it's around 60-65* out in early morning. Normal take off from light, no smoke.

I got the idea to pull the fuse and relay for the fuel heater, which I don't have anyways (pulled the stock stuff off).

Now when I take off, it smokes alot (it didn't smoke unless I was kinda aggressive on the throttle) and the power is down, re-installed the fuse and relay to see if that's the problem. NOT!!
I put the smarty back to stock format and runs fine except lacking the power from the smarty, and hardly smokes now. The turbos work alot harder now for power, boost is norm. around 10-15psi around town (city streets), with out smarty up around 35-45psi.

Then I booted the power back up on smarty to where I had before and the same thing,alot of smoke and lacking power (what it used to be before I pulled the fuse/relay).

The key on count thing is close to 500 if that makes a diff. and what is the deal with that anyways?? Can I re-set it?? Am I supposed to plug in the smarty to update the tnt/r??

Thanks for your time in advance.

 

what codes are setting besdes the grid heater delete? have you pressure tested for boost leaks? Are you expecting a major difference for the grid delete?

 

I've been running all the mods that I've done for awhile now so the only diff. is when I pulled the fuse and relay.

The truck has ran perfectly until the fuse deal. Haven't had any problems with power until now.

 

Bob, what is the deal with the key counter thing, do I have to do anything??

 

No codes are up right now either, no eng. light......

 

soft codes set with no cel. try putting the stock peices back together

 

the key counter is how many times your truck has been started. not a big thing.

 

This would cause alot of smoke too??

I didn't take the grid apart, I made a block to replace the heat grid. and fabbed up a fuel filt. delete. I put the wire conn. in water tight bag which is sealed up with silicone.

I'll set in the fuel filter, plug in the conn. and see what happens ........

 

Thanks for your answer to my question on that, I thought I read awhile back to a problem to that, too many counts and had to update...

So I can forget about it now.......

 

mine shows like over 5000 times lol

 

So what's your take on my power loss/smoke problem??

 

it sounds like a boost leak to me. have you checked all your boots? do you have the metal replacement tube from the intercooler to the intake horn? CD in NM and I were chatting on the phone yesterday about these tubes breaking under pressure. they split at the seam under boost and can come back together when at rest and make things hard to find.

 

I've checked all boots and conn., have the stock tube from ic to intake and stock boots.

If I had a leak, would I still read psi off gauges?? The boost #'s are the same, the power loss is from a stop til turbos spool up. Norm. I'd only have to push gas ped only say 1/8'' to go. With problem, down a 3/8 - 1/2'' for example and lt of smoke. Once turbos lite, smoke's gone.

 

Thanks for your help cbrahs, I'll check back in the morning to see replies. Not that I'll have any time in the morning to do anything about it, too darn early..3:45am.

Only 2 miles to work though.....to still drive it and check to see if anything's changed.....

 

Well, it seems like your problem started when you pulled the fuses and relay, right? I would try leaving the battery unhooked for a few hours, push the brake pedal, turn the key on, hop on one leg, (that's not part of it, but something about doing one of those grounds any power in the system...) and hook it back up and try again. I'm not ruleing out any of the above stuff, just trying to offer another suggestion.

And, yes, you will still read boost with a busted boot. Just depends on how busted it is.

Have you pulled the air filter and inspected the intake tube? I'd take all of that off and inspect it, cradle to grave.