Well, left for vacation 1 week ago, and everything went wrong.

My truck in current configuration has consistantly got 15 - 16 mpg average. Two weeks ago, I took a trip to Toledo, and mileage was down to 14, but I attributed it to towing the jet skis.

Leaving for vacation last week to Pensacola, FL, netted me 12 mpg on the way down. I noticed some white smoke when starting cold, but would clear up after 30 seconds or so. When we got down to FL, I noticed that engine RPM would "hang"...when punching the throttle quick, the engine used to be very responsive, revving quickly and come back down quickly. Now, when patting the throttle quickly, the rpm hangs at 1100 - 1300, and sometimes will not fall below that even after 2 minutes or more. Also, on the way down, I noticed the truck "hazing" constantly while driving...much more so than was normal. A passing truck even slowed to flag me down, because the hazing was so bad. The passenger side jet ski had a thick black film on it when we got to FL. I checked oil level at each fill up, fearing an injector had hung open, but all was normal.

Would it be possible for an injector(s) to be slobbering, or dribbling fuel that would cause the rpm to hang, poor fuel economy, white smoke at start up and constant hazing?

Second big problem...the day we planned to come back, shifting got VERY hard...almost to the point it was impossible to get it in gear. I've daily driven the 3850 DD clutch for over a year now, and usually don't have any trouble; however, no matter what you do, it's almost impossible to get the truck into gear, and very hard to shift once started. The shifting would be compared to not having a clutch at all, and having to synch the gears almost perfectly to avoid major grinding.

My first thought was hydraulics/slave cylinder. However, I believe the clutch is disengaging properly, because I adjusted the rod out to the point that pressing the clutch too far gives the "tat-tat-tat-tat-tat" sound. But, it seems like when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way, that the clutch is still trying to grab...like when you start the truck in gear, the truck tries to take off even when the clutch pedal is pressed in to the point of hearing the "tat-tat-tat". Any thoughts?

I've been running Smarty TNT#9, TM 3, RP 2, Timing 4, TST standard program on 2/0 or 3/0, and TS MP-8 on about 10%. RP cruising is around 17,000 psi. I installed the 3850 sprung hub DD SB clutch about a year ago with upgraded hydraulics, and, while it's always been tricky to shift, it's been fine.

I've recently been working through the installation of a Mitchell gear splitter, which is just a 2-speed overdrive unit that mounts in a divorced configuration...but I've been driving with the unit installed for several weeks without problem.

Just before I left, I also got a BAD oil report from Blackstone, showing the oil was saturated with soot, copper of 213, iron of 122, lead of 21, chromium of 6, etc, etc. This sample was taken at 8,000 miles running Schaeffer's 9000 5w-40 synthetic, Donaldson ELF7349 high efficiency oil filter, OilGuard bypass filter, FilterMags on the outside of the primary, and some very strong neodymium-iron-borite magnets inside the OilGuard housing as well.

I've always ran GDP's 2 micron fuel filter, a 7 micron in the OEM canister, FilterMags on the outsided of the 2-micron, and used Schaeffer's diesel treat with every fill up.

Well, to top off the vacation, I jack-knifed the jet ski trailer and caved in the passenger side of the truck, and got a good case of food poisoning/diarrhea as we were leaving to come home. And, when under the truck looking things over, I noticed 2 of the Sway-a-way shocks were busted and leaking oil badly

Any suggestions on anything? (well, besides the diarrhea...it's passed now )

Signature is current, with the exception that the Helix 2 and springs are still waiting to be installed....

Thanks.....Eric

 

Dang Eric, you been skippin' church or somethin'?
Just kidding!

Sounds like injector problems - I assume you've already tried removing all aftermarket fueling boxes/SW? Looks like you're still on the OEM sticks - how many miles?

Might want to check that the clutch master is still securely mounted to firewall, and that slave pushrod has full travel.... otherwise, time to give Peter a call. Remember if the washer behind the clutch fork pivot ball was removed while installing the SB?

Feel your pain re the jack knife - did that to the '98 once while logging with it out on the ranch... trailer frame cut the bedside like a can opener.

p.s. next time, don't drink the water!

 

what are you running the pressure on with the TST ? There's no need for a MP-8 when you have the TST. You could be getting false RP with all those plugs in the RP and MAP sensors.

With your trip the ECM had to adjust for the elevation and temperature changes. It was used to where you live but, not where you went. You also where using different fuel which may have been higher in cetane or not. Typically it's not real noticeable but, I go through many elevation changes where I live and can tell it runs different sometimes. Not saying this is your problem but, could have something to do with it.

With stock injectors though and all those electronics... you could have crack one.

just some thoughts

 

The first problem exhibits signs of injectors being leaky beyond specs and possibly hanging every so slightly. Time for a rebuild... Don at F1 is really good about doing them, and if you decide to go with his tips, the price becomes resonable.

The second problem with the oil analysis looks like it could point to several things... none good. The iron would point to cam wear first. However, looking at the total picture, chromium is usually rings, lead is bearings, the copper is bushings. Combine that with the high soot levels in a short mileage period and your bypass filtration, I would hazard a guess that rings/cylinders might have premature wear. Although, you don't mention aluminum which would be the pistons, so I really don't know. It might be worth while to do a leakdown test to see if you are holding compression. All that soot points to poor ring sealing and low compression could point to some of the mileage loss you describe along with the leaky injectors.
I use the same oil as you, run 20k between changes and have very good feedback from blackstone. So I don't believe the oil is at fault here.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Yeah, still on the stock sticks for now. They've got 55,xxx miles on them as of this trip. I'm planning to send them to Don M to have them gone through and upgraded to 1.8's or so when I do the cam and springs...hopefully this fall, but will depend on the funding situation.

I'm still on the old school TST programming, without the RP option. I usually run the Smarty RP on 2 just for a little bump, and then raise from there with the TS MP-8 if needed. I think the MP-8 does a little better at boost fooling as well...

Aluminum count was a little high at 6, and Tin was slightly high at 3 as well. I also showed trace amounts of manganese, silver, and nickel, none of which should be there

I've only got 55k on the truck, probably less than half of that at 400 + h.p. I've kept the TST high temp backdown set very conservatively at 1200°, and the cooldown at 325°.

Keep the suggestions comin...I plan on pulling the transmission this weekend, inspecting the clutch, and seeing what I find.

--Eric

 

Well, I got everything torn down last night, and one of the four fingers on the pressure plate had broken off, and was rattling around inside... I'll call Peter today, and see how we can work things out. It's a SouthBend 3850 sprung hub double disc clutch with the upgraded hydraulics. The clutch has about 19k miles on it, and has been installed approximatey 14 months. I've never been to the track or sled pulled...

I'm really needing to get the truck going soon, so I'll probably try to get the drivetrain back together, and then maybe take a few days off work to do the injectors, and install the cam and springs at the same time.

The blown shocks will have to wait awhile. I did somewhat get the large dent in the bed to pop out though...

--Eric

 

My mileage was going down, mine would haze at idle, and it would idle up to 1200 rpm by itself, idle R/p was 2500psi...... i removed all toys, no difference...

a friend told me to check the connector tube nuts... #3 was loose.... tightened it, all better...
seems if the nut gets loose, that the tube will not engage fully into the injector and will return pressurized fuel to the return circuit.. you wont fully atomize, the R/P is down, and ecm tries to compensate.

 

Thanks for the tip...I'll check it out tonight.

I just got off the phone with Peter at SouthBend. He wondered what I was thinking trying to daily drive with a 3850 plate load anyway...I told him that I usually go for overkill, so I can do things once and be done with it.

Well, after being educated a little, it seems that a 3250 is far better suited for my application (no sled pulling). Peter said the "little" 3250 has held 840 h.p. fuel only and not slipped yet!!!

He's shipping out a new 3250 pressure plate and intermediate flywheel, updated clutch fork, and new throw-out bearing this afternoon...you can't beat service like that!!! Peter doesn't just have awesome customer service, he goes well above what is even reasonable!

I can't wait to try the new setup...

--Eric