thanx for the replies they helped keep my piece of mind

 

With the Moderate TM Smarty SW for a stock 2006 on #7 (SBC clutch) It is very hard for me to get to even 30 PSI... 20 to 25 is more the norm and never above 25 when under 2000 RPM. EGT rockets up when floored very quickly to 1400 deg. I expected 30-34 PSI boost with the smarty.

Running the Quad BF I would get to the 30's fairly easily but would also over boost and go over 42-43 to easily. EGTs were also more manageable. IIRC.

I am still wondering how to run this set up... My current smarty SW and Quad BF or w/o ... Or: Wild thing w/o the Quad boost fooler.

On my 12v 1997 with a #10 TST plate I could get 40 PSI at 1750 RPM.

One weird thing I noticed is the boost when rolling on the throttle. It will climb to 25 then drop to 20 (even when rolling more fuel on) then go back up to 25 PSI. Is this the TM dropping power at the rpm range an automatic "would" be shifting? (I have a 6 speed)

Maybe I need to load the Wild Thing SW.

Having a computer interpret my throttle then pass it along is SOOOO much different than my manual pump. Before my foot was like a direct link to my boost gauge. Now it's a weird indirect quasi connection. I really do NOT like it.

My foot used to control the fuel and boost very accurately.. SO I learned to feed it as the motor would take it.. Now it's completely different. I feel very "disconnected"

It is virtually impossible to shift correctly at WOT. If I try to shift at 2500 let off the fuel, depress clutch, the RPM surges to 3K as if I still was giving it fuel. What the heck?

FYI I have the 2/8/2007 Smarty update: Smt4eV405D305a47.smt and running #7 with stock injectors and Turbo with South Bend Clutch

 

There are two things to consider here.

1.) I would imagine that the software that has the bosot fooling software in it relies much more on boost than the other non boost fooling software. My guess is because of this the truck actually fuels harder and makes more power with the boost fooling software. For example SW5 w/boost fooling is probably much stronger than SW5 w/o boost fooling.

So if you run a boost fooler with the normal software the boost is not near as jumpy as it does its thing and the boost fooler does its own thing.

2.) Just boost PSI is not going to kill a stock turbo. For example you can slap a boost fooler on a stock truck and run 38-40psi all day long and not hurt it. What does happen to these turbos is they get way overfueled or barked and that will kill them. I know of turbos that broke at 32psi because they were so overspun they just snapped. It had nothing to do with boost it was simply that the truck had 700hp worth of fuel and he just flat over ran the shaft.

Now I am not saying just go beat on the stock turbo. If you beat on anything long enough it will break. What I am trying to get across is that on the average truck with added power running in the mid to low 40psi range is not going to just break them unless someone is being overly rough with the truck.
We are just talking about getting some more air into the engine so it does not melt.

Believe me if 40+psi just broke turbos you would see an awful lot of posts on here. Everyone of our modules will get you to at least that point and so do most other modules. IF they were going to break regularly it would be a commonly read failure!

 

Anytime you run the EGT's over 1325 degrees you are causing the Exhaust Valve Seats to exceed their threshold and eventually they will become loose you will get a tick in the engine and a valve will be bent by a dropped seat. This is a very common problem with these hot running CR engines. Do what it takes to keep the engine cool. A boost fooler is a help but what you need is a turbo. The IC will help but it is masking a mismatch in your fueling to your air supply. Good Luck, ks

 

I have the diablo Sport and never got above 1450 on extreem??? Is you guage working properly?

BTW Quad i have a Quad Race box stacked with Superchips on performance and it works great, and my EGT's will only get to 1400 under WOT in the 1/4 mile mark, lower than preditor only on extreem!

 

Anytime your EGT's reach 1600F (even for a brief period of time) you are weaking the top of the piston. 1600F is bright cherry red color, your engine simply is NOT built to take that kind of heat. Aluminum melts at 1220F, and don't forget you are talking about a piston under EXTREME pressure on the power stroke. It is not just sitting there exposed to the heat. Oil, that is suppose to lubricate the cylinder walls is burned off at those temps and causes gunk to clog and bind the rings. Oil that is suppose to keep the rings free turns into sludge and makes them stick.

Will it kill your truck to hit 1600 degrees? Not right away. But it WILL. Think I'm kidding?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=96509






It's your engine and your money. Don't go crying "warranty repair" of it breaks.

Enjoy.

 

Quad, excellent post & good points....makes sense to me....I suppose that's the downfall of the inet boards....you get mixed messages from rookies like me vs. people that have much more knowledge = confusion. Lesson learned, let the people that own companies or have 90k trucks and have been there done that answer the tough questions....i was just trying to be helpful and participate based upon other posts / reading and my own experience (limited as it is.)

Looks like i'm going to have to get a boost fooler....before i have enough for a new turbo.

 

It don't mater if you have a gages or not if you don't look at it. One thing I have learned is that for a lot of people that I have done work for is that some times it doesn't mater if they have one or not they will stay in it just as long as if they didn't have one. Some people only have the guage to brag about how hot they got it and for how long. Then they come and gripe at me wanting to know why they blew something apart like it was something I did. If you don't watch or care about your EGT's then don't bother with the gages. Just don't cry to me when it goes. P.S. Pistons are not pure aluminum

 

shambo, I have installed new DiPricol Optix gauges. My temp. probe is in the manifold next to number 3 and 4 cyl. Where is yours?

 

jgiachino you're pretty smart. I got the boost fooler on Wednesday. Hooked my 8500 pound trailer to try it out. Going up a 6 mile long hill with the predator on tow setting. The boost fooler lowered my egt's by 200 degrees. My boost pressure was at 40psi. At the top of the hill I installed my stock program just for comparison. Halfway way up I heard a loud pop, then lots of hissing. Oh crap. Looked at boost gauge was 35psi now only 5psi. Limped back up to the top at 20 mph. Sure enough the plastic inter cooler cap was cracked 6 inches. Bad news I was 30 miles from home with truck in limp home mode. Good news my truck has 35,800 so the new metal one will be installed on Monday under warranty.

 

That stinks on the plastic IC. If it popped that easy it was inevitable anyhow I can assure you. It seems that trucks towing seem to pop them stock pretty regularly.

Once you get the aluminum IC in you will be a very happy camper. Having power is one thing being able to use it towing is another!