All right, I am startin to consider head studs, the 12mm ARPs.
I realize that the studs can be intalled with the head still on the motor BUT what else is invloved? Using 12mm studs is there any tapping that needs to be done?

If anybody had a step by step prosses they could give me or give me a link that would be great. 400 bones sounds like a lot for some bolts but it may be cheap insurance.

TIA

 

I heard your supposed to torque them down but my mechanic at the dodge dealership said nothing about it. Make me a little worried trying to figure it out.

 

Thanks, my main concern is I heard the block needs to be "bottom tapped". Dont really know what that is but if I am takin out 12mm studs and replacin them with 12mm studs, seems to me it should be remove one, replace one, remove one, replace one, etc. but I dont know, thats why I started the thread.

I do think you are supposed to retorque after a few heat cycles though.

 

You should pull your head, you can get away without, but it is too big of a risk personally for the cost of a gasket

Kevin

 

So there is no drillin, tappin, etc, or anything like that?

 

no drilling or anything,, just pull the head,, for the extra work I think it is worth it IMHO

Kevin

 

Awsome, thanks

BTW it kinda cracks me up watchin this, you resond to me then Blackbeast, em, blackbeast, its just funny to me since we got kinda the same question.

thanks for the help Kevin

 

lol,, I know,, no problem,, Im just glad to help out,, I know how much everyone has helped me out with my stuff

Kevin

 

Yeah thanks a bunch kevin..

 

Anytime,, Im glad to share my experiences

Kevin

 

DO you really think springs are necessary on the new dodge. The springs are rated at 60lbs stock.

 

You need new springs with a cam and twins unless you want valve float.

 

What do twins have to do with valve float?

 

increased psi from twins equals valve float. high hp trucks need springs.

 

I gotcha. How much boost do you think I will create with my setup.