Got my F1 springs put in today.Went fairly well.#6 was a pain but overall not that bad.Could do all of them in an hour if I had to do it again.

Will be putting ARP studs in tomorrow.Question is when I do the second retorque after getting the engine up to temp do I need to back the nuts off and then torque again or just leave them and pull to 125ft lbs again?

 

if I were you, warm it up real well, let it completely cool, then retorque again to 125 ft lbs

 

I loosen the nut and then retorque in steps to 125.

 

if you are replacing the bolts with studs one at a time there is no need to retorque

 

I didn't retorque but I did torque them down three times upon initial installation.

 

I been told a couple ways to go about the initial install.Think I will remove stock bolt and install stud in the factory torque order(work from center of head out).Was told to pull first torque to 97ft lbs on first pull,then retorque all to 125 once all studs are in place.Seems to be more mixxed as to whether a retorque is required after engine has been ran and cooled down.If I do retorque again a couple days later should I loosen the nut and torque it back to 125 or just give them all a pull to make sure there at 125 and call it good?

 

I spoke directly with ARP about this subject. They told me to get the best and most accurate holding ability, to torque them down to 125, then loosen one at a time, then torque to 125, then loosen and torque to 125 for a third and final time. This is needed to burnish (I think that's the term) the nuts to the threads and stretch the studs accordingly. It has to do with removing any imperfections and getting the most accurate readings. Once that third torque takes place, there will be no more stretching. And also use a lot of the ARP lube. I bought an extra pint and used probably a quarter of it.

 

I've got 6 studs that are a little longer than the rest.Where do they go?I figure its one of the outer 2 rows being theres only 6 bolts in each.

 

Exhaust manifold side, also make sure to trim up your lower rocker box in the rear all the way in the back of #6 to clear the head of that stud. Good luck.

 

appreciate the help fella's!How much thread should I have showing above the nut after torqueing?Got a couple in and I have about a 1/4" showing on the ones in the middle rows and just put the longer stud in the exhaust man. row like Rye said and it has about a 1/2" showing.Does this sound about right?

By the way, I'm bottoming the studs then backing them off a 1/4 turn.Is this right?

 

I think people argue back and forth about loosening and then retorque or just checking the torque without loosening the nut. My personal take is that gaskets are made to be torqued down once and that loosening and retorqueing takes away some of the gasket's integrity. Kind of like how you would never reuse a crush type gasket, same goes for the head. I think ARP gets away with the one bolt at a time since the other 25 bolts are still putting a lot of pressure on the gasket.

That said, you probably get the most accurate torque when you loosen and re lube. I think the best method is to torque to 125 and then on the retorque, just set the wrench to 130 and hit all of the nuts without loosening. Going over 5 ft/ lbs will ensure adequate torque, adequate stretch, and retain gasket integrity.

**Just some food for thought!

 

I would think that you would want to retork the head after the engine has been warmed up and while still hot. Because that is when things are expanded the most with temp. This is what I have been told. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Dustin

 

Yep when I first did them I hand tightened them and some were higher then others. I called for help, and ended up using a speed wrench and running them all tight then backing them out 1/4 turn. As far as torque again you will get alot of opinions and who knows. I did mine to 60, 90, then 125. Started her and ran till operating temp shut her down then backed them off while warm and went back to 125. Some will say let it re-cool others will say dont bother with a heat cycle. I think as long as you have a good calibrated torque wrench any method is ok.

 

Thats all apr said needed