HE351 Turbo Swap info...
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,803
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
Thanks. This statement that you made prompted my last post.
I'm a bit confused now. Are you saying you like this mod or not? My turbo is on the way so there's no turning back now anyways but I'd still like to know.....
Its not going to give you what you need or want
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
So, has anybody tried some kind of brass T-fitting installed in the silicone hose to control the wastegate? I'm sure there is something at the NAPA store that could work for this. I think that's what I'm gonna try...
Hmmm, since I still have a full warranty on my truck I wonder how Dodge would handle a warranty claim when my truck has been upgraded with factory Dodge turbo and exhaust parts.......
Hmmm, since I still have a full warranty on my truck I wonder how Dodge would handle a warranty claim when my truck has been upgraded with factory Dodge turbo and exhaust parts.......
some day I will have some time to do this..... right now the turbo is just sitting in a box on the floor waiting on it's day to find a home on my '03 HO.
Registered user
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 0
FWIW I put a 06 turbo on mine. Installed a boost "ELBOW". Finally got to the point that the boost elbow was taken off, and now I am at 32PSI of boost at full peddle. Zip tied the hose going to the waste gate. hope it helps...BigBlue has more knowledge on this subject than anyone.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,051
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, NV
If you guys are having issues with low boost, you are probably having issues with the wastegate opening too early. There are a few ways to remedy:
1. Disconnect the silicone hose at the actuator and cap it so boost will not leak.
2. Shim the actuator by loosening the two 10mm bolts and slipping a c-shaped washer behind the actuator and sandwiching it between the actuator and cast aluminum ears. Or you can remove the actuator and use full washers. Obviously cut washers can be slid in behind the actuator if you loosen the 10mm nuts and apply a little bit of shop air to extend the rod.
3. Remove the actuator and drill the pressed pin with a 7/64" drill bit. Once drilled, you can turn the threaded end of the actuator and shorten the whole assembly. A shorter assembly puts more preload on the wastegate puck and will allow more boost before it opens.
4. Add a spring or turnbuckle the wastegate actuator c-clip end and add tension that pulls the wastegate arm or rod end forward toward the headlight.
5. Tack weld the wastegate shut, either add a weld to the flapper to hold it shut or pull and weld the external lever in the closed position.
And finally, it takes fuel to make heat and exhaust pressure. If you don't have much fuel, you won't make very much boost unless you add a big load like 12K trailer on a mountain pass.
1. Disconnect the silicone hose at the actuator and cap it so boost will not leak.
2. Shim the actuator by loosening the two 10mm bolts and slipping a c-shaped washer behind the actuator and sandwiching it between the actuator and cast aluminum ears. Or you can remove the actuator and use full washers. Obviously cut washers can be slid in behind the actuator if you loosen the 10mm nuts and apply a little bit of shop air to extend the rod.
3. Remove the actuator and drill the pressed pin with a 7/64" drill bit. Once drilled, you can turn the threaded end of the actuator and shorten the whole assembly. A shorter assembly puts more preload on the wastegate puck and will allow more boost before it opens.
4. Add a spring or turnbuckle the wastegate actuator c-clip end and add tension that pulls the wastegate arm or rod end forward toward the headlight.
5. Tack weld the wastegate shut, either add a weld to the flapper to hold it shut or pull and weld the external lever in the closed position.
And finally, it takes fuel to make heat and exhaust pressure. If you don't have much fuel, you won't make very much boost unless you add a big load like 12K trailer on a mountain pass.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Grove, New Jersey
sounds like a great swap, not too hard to do either, advice : attach drain tube to turbo while it is oout of the truck, them two bolts are a pita if you try to do them on the truck, then stuff the drain tube back in the block. Note how far it was in so when you put it back, it is far enough or it will leak under higher rpm. guess I need to make a classified add so these other interested in the swap have a chance at the one I just took off.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: CENTRAL FLORIDA
I don't think a 12cm housing would be much of an upgrade. It has been reported that the 9cm open housing of the HE351 flows as well as a 12cm divided housing.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,803
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
I'd love it if I could get my hands on the V-Band clamp that holds the downpipe on without getting raped by the Dodge dealer..... I can't believe how hard it is to get one of these things...
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,803
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
I tried that yesterday. I went to the storeroom with him and we tried everything that he had. There was one clamp that would fit on the elbow but it was not wide enough to accomodate the downpipe too. I got the Cummins part number now and I'm gonna make a call today on that....
