JFlory

Turbo cost - $100, craigslist.

Actuator - Free, stock turbo

Springs - $25, because I bought 3 of every kind they had at the hardware store.

Exhaust manifold - Free, stocker

SS plate - Free, scraps at work, but really only about $10 worth.

Oil drain tube - Free, stock modified.

Oil suply - Free, stocker fits right on.

Single diget compressor gauge - $45, needed to get the actuator fine tuned.

Couple of fittings for the above - $6

4 inch V-band clamp - Free, off the intermediate of the stock turbo.

And time - ALOT!

To be completly honest, I could do this agian for about $150, now that the learning curve is over. But, I'm not done either. Getting the coolant hooked up and the EB to work properly will prolly add on another $50.

All said, someone should use maybe $400 as a general rule, I quess. I'm lucky enough to have a group of engineers at my disposal, and access to NC machines, material out the wazoo, and one of the best tig welders around. Oh, and can't forget the totally understanding wife.

On a side note: My son went to the store with me tonight. He's 6. You couldn't have wiped that smile off his face with a mouth full of vinegar when I kicked the exhaust brake on. (I've kinda figured out that if I give the truck a quick jab on the throttle, it lets the actuator pull the lever to EB mode.)

aborgardt

Then what do you do to turn it off??? just accelerate to build boost?

ttcfan4476

i wish i had the money to put mine on i think the instant spool would be worth it all

cbrahs

what ya should do there JD is rig up the piping for a set of twins with that VGT

Diesel87

This is the best thread I have seen on the site. I've got a feeling that the aftermarket will get in on some of this action. We need to buy these cheap 6.7 turbos while we still can. I wish I could weld so I could get in on this. I guess I will have to wait on the aftermarket.

KelschKid

Got a few questions that hopefully I can articulate properly.

1: How do the 6.7 turbos compare to the 5.9 turbos so far as flow is concerned? (would like some cooler EGT's)

2: Because of the "instant spool" you're talking about, are the 6.7's snappier off the line than the 5.9's? (my 2007 is a dog off the line compared to my 2003)

3: Has this turbo reduced smoke both off the line and on the top end? (my 2007 smokes a LOT more than my 2003 and I don't really like it. Afraid I'm gonna get a ticket or something)

4: If this turbo is so awesome why hasn't anyone tried this before? (you're awesome for thinking of this JFlory)

aborgardt

Why do you need to weld. Im not welding anything on mine. Buy a 6.7 Manifold and it will bolt up...to your 06

JFlory

Yep, just push the go pedal. It opens at 4psi, so it kicks out rather quick, but not like I would like it to. The problem is that when the exhaust brake is on, there is such a restriction that it can't even spool the turbo very much. It really sucks to try and accelerate until it kicks out, but it always does. I would hate to see what kind of back pressure it's running before it happens, though.

Rumor has it that Industrial has already started digging deep into the VGT's. Supposedly they have done some testing with a modified housing to accept 64mm wheel and have a twin VGT setup in the testing stages. Sounds like a good deal.

Anyways, thanks agian guys for all the support. I was really going to throw in the towel when I learned how different the exhaust manifold flange was. But after reading some of the responses on here, I just kept going. Now I don't think I want to drive the truck without the VGT on. It really is that different from any other turbo, and I've seen a few.

Decided to go ahead and just make 2 of everything when I have the makeover done. That way if someone runs into a snag on making parts, I can help out.

Later guys, J.D.

rip 112

And of course Fleece has the Cheetah coming out shortly, a 64mm VNT turbo that is fully controlled by the user. Gonna be crazy, the 6.7 is opening up a whole new can of worms.

I have to commend you on your work J.D, thats a good job you're doing there. Gotta get some good vids posted, but don't break a leg or anything lol!!!

JFlory

1- The turbo measures at, 60mm intake wheel, 3cm closed to a 26cm open exhaust housing, and a 60mm exhaust wheel. This is all the same as the '04.5 and up on the wheel size. The difference is the adjustment in the housing. You can go from fast spool, to open breathing. But in the end your still a little choked by the exhaust wheel. I'm not shooting for 800hp, so I don't care.

2- I have no experience with a 6.7, but with all the electronics running the turbo, I doubt it would run like mine does. And the emissions crap has to cause a bit of a problem, too. The main reason the VGT is on the 6.7 is for the EGR. I don't really know why, but am assuming that when you steal 25% of the exhaust, it kills spool up. There for it closes the collar. Agian, just speculating on common sense.

3- My truck never smoked much to start with, but it has reduced smoke out put. In that horrible video on the page 4 of this thread, that was TT03 of the TST, on level 3-3. I would usually kill every misquito within 200ft on that kind of run. Now, you can see that boost rises so quickly it burns the fuel.

4- I have no idea. I can say that it was a huge pain to overcome some of the obsticles, but now it all seems rather easy. Not everyone has the resorces that I do either. Working at a machine shop with NC units and lots of experienced guys that are sort of into the diesel stuff too really helps.

The single best answer to question 4 is prolly the fact that this isn't a huge hp gainer. That's what sells and vendors know it. I could really care less about hp, and just want drivability.

Best I can answer.

1985cucv

how much power is this turbo capable of and what numbers of boost?

sallyman1

vgt are controlled and monitored by a hall effect sensor

morpheus

I'd be leary of overspeed. Getting it setup to monitor the speed sensor should be critical to understanding how the stock actuator you've fabbed up is affecting turbo speed. I have yet to see anyone utilize the sensor to truly insure it's not killing the turbo.

ttcfan4476

some of the digging around i have done this turbo is good to 40 psi and 170,000 rpms without failure. but just from what i have read i cannot guarentee this

JFlory

I'm not going to worry too much about overspeeding. The simple fact is that it is nearly impossible to overspeed this thing. If your making backpressure, your also making boost. If your making boost, then your opening the actuator, therefore relieving the backpressure before overspeed.

And with the exhaust brake, it won't happen. You'll pop your head gasket before you overspeed this turbo. Trust me. When it's in EB mode, the exhaust is shut off so much that it literally doesn't spin the turbine very much. After trying to rev the engine while in EB mode, you realize that it won't build any boost, therefore it's not spinning the turbo.

But I'm also not calling you out by any means. You are 100% correct that if you set the actuator up to open at say 10-15psi of boost, instead of the 3-4psi mine is, it will overspeed. I spent alot of time to get things right, and it seems to have paid off. I would love to be able to use the stock rpm sensor on the shaft of the turbo, but have a full plate as it is. I won't lie, it's over my head anyway. I very well could be putting this turbo past it's limits, but no one will know were the limit is unless we bolt one on and try, thats all I'm doing.