Fuel Pressure Gauge plumbing,... Question.
Fuel Pressure Gauge plumbing,... Question.
I just ordered my new gauges. Went with the Optix.
I will be running straight mechanical, the supplied tubing slid inside some fuel hose for protection.
I went to NAPPY today and got my needle valve. I see some guys posting that they simply cut the rubber line going from the filter to the CP3 and put some "push lock" fittings in there with a Tee.
What size is that line, 1/4"? Are the fittings readily available, if so where?
Is it okay to use a brass Tee right there, straight into my valve then out to the gauge?
I know about the Geno's cap, rather not spend the money or have the fittings up there anyway. I would use a tapped banjo if someone could give me a decent reason not to go the route I am thinking.
Anyone with other ideas, please share.
I will be running straight mechanical, the supplied tubing slid inside some fuel hose for protection.
I went to NAPPY today and got my needle valve. I see some guys posting that they simply cut the rubber line going from the filter to the CP3 and put some "push lock" fittings in there with a Tee.
What size is that line, 1/4"? Are the fittings readily available, if so where?
Is it okay to use a brass Tee right there, straight into my valve then out to the gauge?
I know about the Geno's cap, rather not spend the money or have the fittings up there anyway. I would use a tapped banjo if someone could give me a decent reason not to go the route I am thinking.
Anyone with other ideas, please share.
I did the same thing for a friend. I went to NAPA and bought a brass 1/4 Tee, and 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" hose barbs for connecting into the "line". I also picked up the needle valve and some 300PSI rated 1/8" line to connect to the gauge.
The only problem that I ran into was the "rubber run" was too short for the tee and two 5/16's barbs. I ended machining off two of the 5 barbs on each side and then using heavy duty stainless steel clamps.
These things only see about 11-12 PSI.
The only problem that I ran into was the "rubber run" was too short for the tee and two 5/16's barbs. I ended machining off two of the 5 barbs on each side and then using heavy duty stainless steel clamps.
These things only see about 11-12 PSI.
And, I'm not talking regular old barbs (which are quite long) I'm talking like the ones you see in the new style Vulcan kit, they just like push on, they have some plastic thingy on the end.....
?
?
Okay, I got all the parts I need from NAPPY, except the two 5/16 hose fittings, they won't be here till Tuesday. (paid $3.50 shipping
)
Now then, I am setting up to start my gauge install, got the boost bolt in, starting poking around my toolbox, guess what I find?
A tapped banjo, from my Campaign 504 LP.
I can just tap in right there on the inlet side of the CP3, right? Is that cool, or should be under the fuel filter?
Up front there would just be too easy........
Let me know, I'd like to be able to get this install 100% complete today.
)Now then, I am setting up to start my gauge install, got the boost bolt in, starting poking around my toolbox, guess what I find?
A tapped banjo, from my Campaign 504 LP.
I can just tap in right there on the inlet side of the CP3, right? Is that cool, or should be under the fuel filter?
Up front there would just be too easy........
Let me know, I'd like to be able to get this install 100% complete today.
I tapped my cp3 with the banjo then to a fuel isolator. I get a vibration I can hear inside the cab at low rpm's. I believe is resonating from the cp3 to the isolator. I have read tapping into the bottom of the fuel filter canister with the banjo will stop the vibration noise. I love the Opix gauges I ordered them from TST and they came with everything needed for the install including the fuel isolator.
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