I'm looking for around 500/600 HP at the rear with 1300+ TQ.This thing will see some drag strip runs,but will be mainly a DD.

I've read a lot of stories about all this stuff not working right or going bad and have seen where a lot have changed to this and that.

What I'd like to do is spend my money one time and not have to go back and change a lot of parts.Don't really care about the money so much as there seems to be no shop around here that does diesels.Tons of round track and drag shops on gas but nothing on the oily stuff.I have to have someone else do the work as my physical problems keep me from being able to do my own work.

If I know what will work the first time,I will be able to find someone to do the work for me.Closest shop I've found to me is BD and TST over in Id.I know there are some closer,just don't know where.Live in eastern Ky.Go one mile east and I'm in Wv.

I know like as in gas motors there has to be a standard that is workable and reliable.I'm working on a blown 871 SB 408 Mopar crate engine right now that will be run at the strip and see some car shows and a whole lot of street use.I want to use the 2500 as a tow rig,show rig and a **** kicker,and smoke out some tail gaiters from time to time.

Any help is welcome,and thanks for taking the time to read all this.

Ron

 

1ST Thing we have to know what truck u have. CR is easy to get 530ish hp. Lift pump, clutch/tranny, 2-3 chips and a 62/12 turbo with intake and exhaust and gauges

 

Clutch for stick
Built tranny for auto

Turbo
Exhaust
Intake
Lift Pump
Stacked programmer/box
Injectors

Edit: gauges

 

AHHHH !!! Sorry bout that. 06 MC,bone stock.For now.Birthday was 05/06

Automatic

 

Stick or auto?

 

Auto...see he is puking out the slush.....


I would do: GAUGES!!! Smarty, Quad Race, Tranny (Goerend), GDP392, HTT62/80.

 

He had to add that after I posted. I could have sworn it did not say auto

 

Smarty, Mp-8, larger turbo, intake and exhaust...

I did 571 and 1021 with the same set up above and on a stock fuel system and stock trannny!!!

 

one good thing is you're not limited on electronics having your build date... unlike built dates after that. You have a ton of options !

 

Yes I didDon't know why it did not show edit,but however it was after you posted up.

Looks like so far that a Smarty is the way to go.
Plus I know about the auto tranny weakness.

Not sure about the turbo,big single or a compound
Also not real sure about stacking a bunch of OEM bashing thingys,would really like to stick to one engine controller
(As I had on my last little turbo Neon.Only thing the OEM ecu controlled was the CEL and the dash gauges)Everything else was managed by a program specific Accel Gen VII DFI.That I could lap top depending on the track conditions and the atmospheric altitude at that time.Also had the Crane Hi62 that controlled engine spark and a two stage rev limiter and the Crane TC2 that controlled the timing retard by 4 degrees for every pound of increased boost,up to 20d total.

Could I just add 100 hp bigger injectors,the Smarty,intake in,exhaust out,and either a larger single turbo,or maybe a set of compounds that would spool the larger turbo up faster.

Which way is the best for fuel.I know like on the Neon I had an Accel fuel regulator that was fed by the bigger in tank fuel pump and had an inline pump from a C6 Vette.Every thing was on a rising rate FP depending on how much boost I was running and how many rpms the engine was turning.I had 650 RC matched injectors which you could not lean out do to the higher rate of fuel as everything ramped up.It would run in town,but I had to keep revving the engine up to clear the plugs.Is there anything out there like that I can get for the fuel pressure and the timing issue,without having to put a whole bunch of stacked pucks on there.I'd like to get one controller that does it all.I've found out that the more crap you have on there the more goes wrong and then you have to trouble shoot and that is a pita big time.

This is what I want to do with the truck as I do and have been doing for 50 years is run what you run match racing on a not so legal track.I unleashed my blown 392 out on RT.60 one week end as some jerk water brought his BB/Gs car over.Spanked that dude real bad.

Looks to me like one of these program companies could come up with a kit the would cover every perimeter that that engine could face.
Example these parts in this kit would put out 400 HP
Stage two 450 HP
Stage 3 500 HP
and so on.

Like HRCs kit.It had a different setup kit the you could buy the whole thing from him,put it on the car,then add your exhaust and tune it yourself.He had kit that ran from 275 to over 900 and then you could spry up to 300 more by adding Zex system.

For those of you that have not done this,you can make more money match racing on one week end than your whole monthly income

What about the after market lift pumps and the modified cp3 and the other fuel delivery systems.Are they on a constant FP or do the ramp up when you push down the go stick???

 

This sounds good,easy and simple,not a lot to go wrong.What size turbo,brand,wastegate pressure are you using and do you run a BOV??

I know that sometimes on the sigs you don't really put out what we are really running.Noticed that I have ignored several times the questions about what body my blown 408 is going in.Well say one thing it will either be a 88 DAK or a 69 Dart.

 

I would go with twins since you plan to tow. Heres what i would do...

Gauges
Upgraded lift pump with 2 micron filter (glacier)
Upgraded tranny
Smarty
MP-8
Have DonM build you some 60-75 hp injectors (whatever he thinks wont over tax the injection pump)
MPI (Nathan Wright) twins.

Or you could do all that but get twin injection pumps and some bigger injectors. That oughta be good for the 600's.

 

There's no such thing as a foolproof setup.

Just when you think you've built one, someone builds a better fool.

 

The only thing that's idiot-proof is another Idiot.

 

Your first list that includes smaller injectors is still going to require a cp3.