EMS hub conversion with factory hub caps (pics)
Anyone have some pix of a set of properly offset larger rims with 37's and the normal ems or dynatrac kit...I'd like to see the stubby kit on this set up....if it isn't within the tire rim profile or very close I'm waiting....I'd like to see a specially made complete hub with its own lockers...it ain't rocket science. KS.
free spin & fuel mileage
Everybody is posting about the distance sticking out past the wheel on the freespin. yet nobody has asked the main question! what has the 1700-2300 bucks get you for your dollars spent! what is the gain in fuel mileage? @ 3.55 a gallon here in california. someone show us some results! or was it just to say you spent another 2 grand on some thing that was saposed to be a life saver on fuel costs that didnt put out!
Mine was under $2000. Got me the abilty to add oversized tires without putting too much stress on the stock bearings that really aren't designed for them. The ability to inspect my bearings or in the chance that they go bad replace them and the races for about $50. Picked up 2mpg. Is that enough?
They do stick out a bit, but unless you are doing rock climbing or trail riding, they are fine. Thanks again DiEseLjunKy for doing my caps! I think that the combination of the powdercoated rims and old caps looks great. Of course my OEM tires are small, but new ones are way too expensive just to throw these out. Even though my EMS kit turned out great, there was way too much extra work that you wouldn't have to do with the Dynatrac kit. I am not sure what else can be bought off of the shelf with the kit other than the stub shafts and the inner and outer hubs. Hopefully, I won't need anything for a long time...
I had a newer (at least 2006 model) ford SD pull up beside me at a stop light the other day that had factory locking hubs, and they where flush with the hub caps.... Don't these trucks run the same front axles that we do??? If so has anyone considered using the knuckles and hubs from one of those??? I like the locking hub idea, but having "custom made" parts can be a real bear when you get caught out in the middle of no where broke down...
They do stick out a bit, but unless you are doing rock climbing or trail riding, they are fine. Thanks again DiEseLjunKy for doing my caps! I think that the combination of the powdercoated rims and old caps looks great. Of course my OEM tires are small, but new ones are way too expensive just to throw these out. Even though my EMS kit turned out great, there was way too much extra work that you wouldn't have to do with the Dynatrac kit. I am not sure what else can be bought off of the shelf with the kit other than the stub shafts and the inner and outer hubs. Hopefully, I won't need anything for a long time...
Andy
I had a newer (at least 2006 model) ford SD pull up beside me at a stop light the other day that had factory locking hubs, and they where flush with the hub caps.... Don't these trucks run the same front axles that we do??? If so has anyone considered using the knuckles and hubs from one of those??? I like the locking hub idea, but having "custom made" parts can be a real bear when you get caught out in the middle of no where broke down...
I had a newer (at least 2006 model) ford SD pull up beside me at a stop light the other day that had factory locking hubs, and they where flush with the hub caps.... Don't these trucks run the same front axles that we do??? If so has anyone considered using the knuckles and hubs from one of those??? I like the locking hub idea, but having "custom made" parts can be a real bear when you get caught out in the middle of no where broke down...
The reason the hubs have to stick out so much, IMO, is due to the wheel off set. that is the wheel is so shallow on the outside, done to center the bearings in the center of the wheel. The unit bearings, inner and outer are very close to each other and wheel offset to the outside would kill them soon. That's why adding front axel load, plow, and turning the stearing wheel alot, plowing, kills the bearings. These trucks are made to go down the highway, not much else, LOL. Oh, and just foreget about deep water. With the Hub kits the bearings are farther apart, giving the wheels, or bearing unit, more strength for wide tires and all. But the bearings are on the outside of the wheel so they stick out, and you have to add a locking hub to it. If I am wrong just tell me.
The bearings evenly spaced apart about 3" or 4" in the hub kits like they ought to be. The warn lockers on the end and the space needed for those is what makes it stick out so far. On the factory unit they're spaced apart about a 1/2" and make for a nice stressfull "pivot" point for the big tires, plows, bumpers, etc I would imagine the with how they're so flush the factory Ford lockers bearings don't have much better spacing than stock Dodge..


