John Rodriguez

Well, the CEL doesn't come directly from the lockup switch. If the jumper fails, you get a CEL of TC Circuit Low (forgot #). The other time you get a CEL is if you somehow kill the engine with the switch, especially under boost.

Nuttymopar

Well then one or both of those has happened. Seemed to have forgotten about it being on and the truck just started jumping, clunking and shaking upon slowing down to a light. Didn't know what was happening at first but then and hit the switch off. Cleared it right up.

So hopefully the P2769 (I think that is the number) will fade away after XX amount of clean starts. It was about TC circuit low or something like that.

I was also showing a friend that while sitting still in 'D', hit the button and BLAH. Motor just dies, like you mentioned. So not sure which one gave me CEL or P2769.

I am going home tonight to try the 33 ohm thing without the relay being wired and see if the TC still locks up. If it does, I will leave it that way.

Thanks John.

slimpicken

OK Call me a sped student but what in the crap are all these pins and jumpers and relays and 33ohm resistors. I understand what I'm trying to accomplish but I have neve seen these numbers on and any wiring harness to tell what is what. Can some one please help me out here and give me the dummy's version on how to accomplish this mod? PLEASE

Nuttymopar

If you pull the ROUND plug from the Tranny, you will notice on that plug, Very SMALL numbers. Number 7 is the one you should tap and run to a 2 pole switch. Then from the other pole on that switch, run to a 33 ohm resistor and then to ground.

Switch turned OFF = stock shifting.

Switch turned ON = TC gets locked at any speed.

Down side I have noticed is that once the TC is locked, it doesn't downshift from 3rd or OD at all into a lower gear. Only will downshift if shifter is placed in 1st and then it will downshift to 1st but TC will still stay locked. So I sometimes unlock TC, give it throttle which will down shift to pass someone and then hit the button again to lock TC. Takes a couple of tries to get use to using the switch.

Up side to having TC locked is better fuel mileage (slightly), better pulling up hills and towing, more effiecient due to fluid going through the complete tranny without heating it because TC is no longer slipping.

As for numbers on the Relay. Pull that relay and look underneath. You should see the numbers there. I went without modifing the relay just by adding that 33 ohm resistor.

hope this helps.

Igor

I might do this mod tomorrow with a 33 ohm resistor and see what happends. And later I might try to devise a setup to have it shut off upon hitting the break or something. See how it works.

Nuttymopar

I wish I could at least hook up a light to it so I would know when it was on. But since you are grounding out that wire from the tranny, and a light needs + & - to work, fuses would start blowing real fast.

I was thinking maybe along the line of a continuity type of light so when the switch is ON, (ground connected) the light lites up. Do they make those types of lights that also LOOK good compared to ripping apart a tester

You also want to some what hide the switch as I'm sure if for some reason you have tranny problems. I'm sure it wouldn't be covered by warrany any longer.

moparman63

John Rodriguez......Do you have any et's for the same set up without the switch??/I am just curious how much you picked up.I plan to wire mine this weekend.Thanks alot for the how-to.

John Rodriguez

From a 14.4 to a 13.9 on 37" tires, only change was the lockup switch.

moparman63

Awesome,thanks.That kind of improvement should put me in the 14.50 range.Mine is running 14.90's now.

slimpicken

Any guesses as to what would have to change to do this on my 04?

Igor

I just wired my switch with a 33ohm 2% resistor. I have 2 toggle switches, one on the dash and one under it (so I can dissable the main one when someoneelse like a shop gets in the truck). Tested the resistance so far, 33.3 ohms... tomorrow will get it onto line 7 and see what happends. The way I have mine wired is ground to toggle switch, toggle switch to 33 ohm resistor, then to another toggle switch on the dash, then to trans. I wanted a underdash second switch so I can dissable the first one.

moparman63

I think I will set mine up with a retractable button.Kinda like a nitrous button on a phone cord.That way when I run,I push it like a nitrous button.When I let off at the end,I release the button.When I am done,I roll it up and stuff it in the ash tray or something.

eastmentCTD600

John,



I found you post on the manual T/C lockup. I'd like to try installing the setup, but I'd like to go over the circuit logic with you before I do. I've analyzed the schematic and found that you don't need the relay jumper since the relay is pulled anytime the engine is running (i.e. pin 30 & 87 are made up delivering 12 vdc to the other solenoids on schematic 8W-31-8 all the time except when the engine is not running).



Specifically I'd like to discuss the implementation of the 33 ohm resistor. What resistor power rating is necessary? Do you know the resistance of the T/C Clutch solenoid? i.e. how did you arrive at a choice of the 33 ohm resistor? Is this just a current limiting resistor that allows the T/C clutch solenoid to be pulled in (activated)? Does this resistor have anything to do with voltage control at the gate of the T/C Clutch Solenoid Control output of the ECM?



Sorry for the barrage of questions, I'm planning to implement the switch soon and would like a bit more info before I modify.



Thanks,

Eric

MikeyT

I just read this on the ATS Diesel Performance site. Would this not apply to using a manual torque converter lockout switch on the stock TC?

and

I realize they have a vested interest in selling their after market TC, but this still makes sense to me.

cquestad

Will this switch work on 04 truck? I would love this option over the top of the Comander.