I know the Mustangs show lower dyno numbers, but even the HP is quite low for a stock 07. You really should be seeing around 280-290 HP at the wheels. At the worst 260 figuring a 20% drop through the transmission.

 

I'll see if I can get him to run one in each gear. Just to make it interesting.
It doesn't show up to well but the line on the left is the TQ line(blue).
Like I said, I was surprised by the large number,too.

I'm not so worried about total, absolute, certified accurate flywheel HP/TQ.
Besides, I can't figure out how some of you guys get those #s on a chassis dyno.There's got to be some extrapolating going on there somewhere.

The way it looks to me, since the energy has to go somewhere, some of my 325 flywheel HP is getting used to multiply my TQ between the trans in 4th and the 3.73. Not to mention , the energy expended to turn the steel wheels and 285 tires.

My main goal is to run the same run on the same machine to see if the CFM has any effect.

 

my only concern would be if the dyno operater can tak a truck and make duplicate runs.if he can do it exactly the same way each time and get repetable results, then great. if he cant, then it was a waste of time , effort, monet, and fue.

 

I did three pulls on a Mustang 250 stock...each were consistently between 270-280hp and 525-535tq...your dyno operator was doing something wrong...probably the 1.1 ratio...you should have dyno'd in 5th gear every time.

 

Well , the numbers are in.... 2 hp gain under the same conditions.




Got him to also do a 5th and 6th gear run and a 4th and 5th gear towing simulation to check max EGTs.
4th gear 222HP/1353TQ
5th gear 237HP/1100TQ
6th gear 230HP/804TQ
4th gear,WOT, at a steady 45mph peaked at 1200*
5th gear,WOT, at a steady 45mph peaked at 1000*





After discussing with the tech about the finer points of different dynos (and innerweb pissin matches),they find that there tends to be a consistent 30% loss from the drive train.
He calculated that I'm right about 340HP vs. the factory claimed 325HP(using my 237hp in 5th)
Basicly 15 extra horsepower to the ground from a CAI, horn, and muffler delete.
He said I need to add fuel to see any major improvement.

 

I would say that about a 15hp gain from exhaust, intake and intake manifold is a good round about gain estimate...nothing much to argue there...HOWEVER, your dyno operator is still seemigly a whacko...no offense man. We're not here to get into pissing matches with you or anything...hope you don't feel that way, or that I am knocking YOU in any way at all. But your numbers are the most out of the ordinary numbers that I have EVER seen in my few years of diesel performance. Your HP numbers are still low (about the equivalent of a 2001 Ford Powerstroke) and your torque numbers match those of folks with 650-750hp trucks...I just don't understand what the guy is doing for your numbers to come out like they are? Heck your last dyno sheet even shows your minimum numbers to be NEGATIVE hp and tq? How does that make ANY sense? He has something hooked up wrong when he dyno's your truck. I would demand a refund. How can a truck that is rated at 325hp/610tq put out 1300+ tq and have a LOSS of 100hp? Loss is loss...you're not going to lose HP and GAIN TQ on a dyno...that guy is out of his gord

 

Did the CFM lower your EGT? Craig

 

He said to get those types of numbers I would have to use an inertia type dyno(dynojet?) or an optical pick up for RPM for the mustang. For the big numbers, he says everyone wants on a dynojet

Anyhow , I found out what I wanted to know.

$650=15 RWHP

 

I wish I would have had him do the tow test the first time.
I have seen 1300* (in 5th) once just pulling to see how high it would go.
On the dyno, he could not get it over 1000* in 5th.
He had to drop down to 4th to get it to 1200*

So, Yes

 

well at least you are happy w/ the gains your dyno guy guestimated for you, but your dyno results are not correct and i would definately find myself another shop w/ a dyno if i were you.

btw, what type of shop have you been dynoing at?

 

I would consider those as supporting mods to start making big horsepower. If you got a tranny and fass/walbro, your ready pour some fuel. Once you've got a tranny and fuel system out of the way, a Smarty could get you almost 150 RWHP on a stock turbo with those mods. Enough to really feel!

 

Before you go knocking that, remember that is peak to peak HP gain for that and it is respectable. Those are really supporting mods really anyway to enable other bombs to function to their fullest.

In any case, if you read the thread form Eric @ TVP's thread on his dyno tests, all the gain (50+hp) was between 1800-2100 rpm... where you are going to do a lot of driving.

The dyno #'s are kind of screwy... I have to agree with the others there...

Go somewhere that knows diesel and what they are doing... Still, you got the comparison, I think that is an accurate reflection of what you gained even if the dyno #'s are off.

 

So im interested in what the dyno #'s would be with a polished out stock horn. I mean I see these 10-15hp gains with all of the horns but it apears that the rough cast in the factory and the stock shape of the fitting itself.

I would just like to know for those guys lookin to save 600 bones (is that for just the horn?????!?) if a little elbow grease and some sanding sleeves would equate to 7-8hp difference.

Its just like the heater delete plates. what does that dyno # show?

 

I think the downfall of the stocker is the choke point between the two outer bolts and the less than fluid bends from the CAC tubing.

You may be onto something with the polishing though.
Don't think anybody has tried that.

 

Polishing the stock horn is a complete waste of effort. All you have to do is take off that horn and look inside and it will all make sense to you. The inside surface is really not that bad anyway... it is the choke point just before the engine that does it.