Broke a A5k...do I get a prize?
#16
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Wow - who knew that the Auroro 5K was a towing charger?
Makes me feel a lot better about being over 1300* for more than 15 minutes!
Hope everything heals up OK - especially your "parts"...
Makes me feel a lot better about being over 1300* for more than 15 minutes!
Hope everything heals up OK - especially your "parts"...
#17
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If I had a 3rd and a half gear...it would have been the great tow charger.
80 mph and up in 4th...it could take allmost full fuel with any load.
70 mph and below...the same in 3rd. It was those times I was forced to drive in the black hole in the middle that was tough. 35's insted of 37's would have fixed that...
It was only the BIG loads that were more challenging.
Started the truck quickley last night to wash engine and park in its final resting place for surgery. That errrrrrie howl from the turbo made me smile
...like an old warrior...refusing to lay down.
It will be out manana for inspection and then sent to ATS for repair. Not a big estimate for repair. I have NO complaints.
80 mph and up in 4th...it could take allmost full fuel with any load.
70 mph and below...the same in 3rd. It was those times I was forced to drive in the black hole in the middle that was tough. 35's insted of 37's would have fixed that...
It was only the BIG loads that were more challenging.
Started the truck quickley last night to wash engine and park in its final resting place for surgery. That errrrrrie howl from the turbo made me smile
...like an old warrior...refusing to lay down.
It will be out manana for inspection and then sent to ATS for repair. Not a big estimate for repair. I have NO complaints.
#19
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Dog is healing...screws, plates, and pins. Bucks buck bucks...but he is guarnteed to heal fine...with no grow plate issues. He is in good spirits...but a little depressed at times since he has to be confined. Heck...he will run around with the cast on...jump...try to hunt unless he is tied up or crated.
Amazing...labs are so tough...no pain. When it broke...he looked confused for a second, and before I could get to him, tried to stand on it twice...then realized it was no good, tucked it up under him and ran off into the ditch on three legs...sniffing and looking for birds. Returned on command.
He was like...oh well...3 legs are enough...lets go back to business. Never a wince...even when it was temporary set WITHOUT sedation.
He will be ready by October 15th.
Amazing...labs are so tough...no pain. When it broke...he looked confused for a second, and before I could get to him, tried to stand on it twice...then realized it was no good, tucked it up under him and ran off into the ditch on three legs...sniffing and looking for birds. Returned on command.
He was like...oh well...3 legs are enough...lets go back to business. Never a wince...even when it was temporary set WITHOUT sedation.
He will be ready by October 15th.
#21
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The CR's can handle the heat a lot better than our old 12v's Eric...not too mention your 12v wouldn't spool that thing well enough to tow ANYTHING below 3K RPM At least not without surging anyway!
97K miles is good for ANY aftermarket charger...let alone one that took the abuse that one didi!
Chris
97K miles is good for ANY aftermarket charger...let alone one that took the abuse that one didi!
Chris
Eric
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Do you always have to rain on my parade!?!? I know the CR's can take a little more heat, but I still would refuse to run 1300* all day long. matter of fact, 1200* is pushing it for me. I just like to be safe And believe me, I know a 12 valve wouldnt be fun with that turbo. Heck, I dont even like the SPS62 for towing.
Eric
Eric
My life used to begin at 1500*, I even pushed it (the 95) over 1900* one day, but that was only a few seconds of WOT...the one nice thing about this new Garrett, is max temps are still under 1300* unless I go over 4K (probably floating valves at that point anyway) We'll see what happens when I put the DDP4's in it
Chris
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It is good to know that the charger can take that abuse!!! I know I won't be that abusive but it will be working when it gets called upon!!!
Shane
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Yep...that's my job
My life used to begin at 1500*, I even pushed it (the 95) over 1900* one day, but that was only a few seconds of WOT...the one nice thing about this new Garrett, is max temps are still under 1300* unless I go over 4K (probably floating valves at that point anyway) We'll see what happens when I put the DDP4's in it
Chris
My life used to begin at 1500*, I even pushed it (the 95) over 1900* one day, but that was only a few seconds of WOT...the one nice thing about this new Garrett, is max temps are still under 1300* unless I go over 4K (probably floating valves at that point anyway) We'll see what happens when I put the DDP4's in it
Chris
Eric
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#26
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OK...update with pics soon. Took it out last night...MAN I FORGOT HOW HEAVY this thing is. Shaft has 1" of forward/rear play. Compressor wheel has ground away into the housing. A ring or "bearing keeper" looking HARD metal piece was jammed in the drain line. Glad that did not go into the oil pan.
One question to ponder...the fine aluminum dust from the wheel and housing rubbing...does it get trapped in the intercooler? Hurt the motor? Etc Etc Etc?
I would think a oil change or two would fix the problem...and aluminum is soft.
I could wipe a little residue...aluminum and a light oil form the first 10 inches or so of the charge air tube to the intercooler...but then it seemed to go away.
Do I need to flush the intercooler and the rest of the charge air tube?
What about bearing debree into the pan? Will most of it get picked up and sent through the filter? Come out when the oil is changed? Should I drop the pan? I got lots of questions...
HELP!
Pics soon.
One question to ponder...the fine aluminum dust from the wheel and housing rubbing...does it get trapped in the intercooler? Hurt the motor? Etc Etc Etc?
I would think a oil change or two would fix the problem...and aluminum is soft.
I could wipe a little residue...aluminum and a light oil form the first 10 inches or so of the charge air tube to the intercooler...but then it seemed to go away.
Do I need to flush the intercooler and the rest of the charge air tube?
What about bearing debree into the pan? Will most of it get picked up and sent through the filter? Come out when the oil is changed? Should I drop the pan? I got lots of questions...
HELP!
Pics soon.
#27
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While your down, I'd take out the intercooler turn it upside down and shop vac it. I'd take all the intake off including the intake manifold cover...It might be aluminum and soft but it can still do a little damage if it finds the wrong place to hang out. I'd remove the pan, flush all the oil lines....turbo feed and drain, etc and put in some cheap oil run it for a day with a new filter and then change it again before the twins go on. Man....if that oil started to feed the engine you woulda had a run away....couldn't have been making enough boost to blow the crap too far into the engine.
One inch of play....you kill me. I can just see that sweet cnc'd compressor wheel....yikes. Don't worry it will all work out. When I took the twins off the race engine there were 4 dime size pieces of steel between the two turbos. Sheet happens. ks
One inch of play....you kill me. I can just see that sweet cnc'd compressor wheel....yikes. Don't worry it will all work out. When I took the twins off the race engine there were 4 dime size pieces of steel between the two turbos. Sheet happens. ks
#30
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Would you go to a radiator shop and have it flushed? Use water/solvent/diesel/simple green etc at home?
I am thinking maybe dropping the oil pan...to double check for chunks and running a gallon of cheap oil I bought to get home down through the top...
extended drain...then filter/oil change. Can't start the truck for a while...it is apart for studs/injects/cp3/springs....and waiting for my twins.
I will start and run once everything is back on....then change oil/filter again in a hundred miles?
I hope that is a resonable plan. Should I cut open the old oil filter to see what I might find...or?
Thanks for the help...I have not had to live through this large of a turbo failure before. I still wish I did NOT have to drive 900 miles on this. Who knows...maybe it has been rubbing a little longer than I know.
It seems like the oild filter should grabmost of the aluminum particulate of "dangerous size"...the rest probably is so small...and "soft" it could not do much to the oil pump, cylinders, pistons/rings.
Do I have any risk of damaging the oil pump from all this? That scares me the most...assuming everything else is just fine. No oil pressure...will kill everything. Maybe time for another REAL gauge.
I am thinking maybe dropping the oil pan...to double check for chunks and running a gallon of cheap oil I bought to get home down through the top...
extended drain...then filter/oil change. Can't start the truck for a while...it is apart for studs/injects/cp3/springs....and waiting for my twins.
I will start and run once everything is back on....then change oil/filter again in a hundred miles?
I hope that is a resonable plan. Should I cut open the old oil filter to see what I might find...or?
Thanks for the help...I have not had to live through this large of a turbo failure before. I still wish I did NOT have to drive 900 miles on this. Who knows...maybe it has been rubbing a little longer than I know.
It seems like the oild filter should grabmost of the aluminum particulate of "dangerous size"...the rest probably is so small...and "soft" it could not do much to the oil pump, cylinders, pistons/rings.
Do I have any risk of damaging the oil pump from all this? That scares me the most...assuming everything else is just fine. No oil pressure...will kill everything. Maybe time for another REAL gauge.