I've searched and searched and I think I've come up with stock pressure toping out/spiking at 32 on my 04.5. I've got a Super Crap tuner that has been ok for a while and a quad boost fooler whith just a few other bolt on pieces. I still don't see any higher than 32 on the boost guage and was thinking it should reach around 40. Am I expecting too much or did I install them in an improper order?

I know the short answer is to get smarty but would like to work with what I have. Yes I'm cheap.

 

Where is your boost sensor tapped into? I have mine in the underside of the intake horn and I also get a peak reading of 32 psi. Your sig says you have a CFM+ so I'm guessing you tapped into one of the ports on that?
For all the stuff you've got I would've guessed you'd see more like 35-40 psi. Someone on here once suggested checking all your intercooler tubing connections to make sure you don't have a leak.
Good luck.

 

Based only on what I see here, you are getting what you'll get. It would appear the superchips is giving you about 70hp. The boost fooler is basically doing nothing for you at that level... it only prevents an overboost code from being set. It does not provide 'added performance'

 

If the superchips adds any timing it will actually lower the boost per fueling rate.

With a BF alone you should be able to see 33-35 psi on stock timing.

But if you are reading boost in the CFM+ and you have a grid heater delete your resistance will be lower and you will see lower boost for the same air flow.

 

Yes the boost is being read in one of the ports of the CFM. I will check for leaks just to be sure.

I do understand the fooler is not nessesarily a power adder but, from my understanding just caps what the computer actually sees. Just funny how it hits 32 and stops. But if that is all I can expect no problem. I'll just have to do like everyone else looking for 'a little' more and upgrade tuner.

 

That just may be what you hit, or maybe the BF isn't working?

I know my WG isn't opening and I scream to 30 and stop, just what the turbo builds.

 

AH64ID...
It's intresting to hear you say that about the relationship between the timing and the boost pressure. I noticed when I was temporarily running SW 2 & even SW 3 my boost pressure didn't peak 30. Now that I'm back down to SW 1, my boost might even tip 36 (much like when stock). Again, I was curious about that, but your explination helps!
Even with my limited knowledge on the subject, I would have had to agree that the 32 boost point seems the norm for js091899's set-up (again, based on what I'm seeing on my end).

 

However if the Revo settings are the same the timing is the same SW1-SW3, which means you should see more boost in SW2 than SW1, and more in SW3 than SW2.

 

AHHH...you know what I have to attribute that little fact to?
Just how little I was jumping into the throttle on the 2 & 3 SW settings. Cause' if what you say is true (and I have no doubt that it is...) then I must have been easier on her in 2 & 3 settings considering I was running defaults on all three levels.
Again, good info here!

 

Actually...I'm a moron . If all three were on defaults, then the timing would most likely be diffrent per SW level. Correct?
Just caught that as I had re-read my post!

 

Default is TM2 on all levels, so SW1 TM2 has the same timing as SW3 TM2.

 

Thanks...that said. Back to my original comment (must have been babying it in SW 2 & 3!)

GOD...I can't wait to upgrade the trans!!

 

OK......so in a mission to actually quiet my truck I installed another Donaldson but this time a 100580 removing the 090535. Quieter in the cab but since installing this muffler boost has increased (well at the guage) with a highest reading of 41. Is the increase due to added back pressure? I guess logically this makes sense but the natrual question is which is better? Higher boost and more back pressure or lower boost and free flowing exhaust? I'm just happy with the sound levels in cab for now, Thanks

 

Interesting, exhaust should have relatively low, if any, effect on the boost, unless you had an exhaust leak? The exhaust housing on the HE351 is so tight that exhaust back-pressure isn't even close to what the housing creates.

 

ok here is how the he351 worksyou will never get more than 31 psi out of it. the solenoid does not work like you think. it was made for emission control. it limits air to reduce no. with no voltage on it the manifold pressure is limited to 20psi. when 12 volts is on it it opens up a port that acts simular to a boost elbow and increases the maximum to 31psi. above this and the drive pressure get's to high anyway. forget the turbo and give the boost fooler away your truck has in-cylinder egr you need to get rid of it to do any good. read this paste
Your truck uses in- cylinder egr for smog reduction. They also extend fueling duration and retard the timing to keep peak heat and pressure down. Since the third injection pulse is so late in the cycle the egt is very hot compared to a 03 but the peak temp where the no is formed is actually lower. i will try to keep it simple, the cam exhaust lobe is ground to leave burnt exhaust gas in for the next cycle. change the cam to a pdr or colt. the hamilton is ground more for kids who are after power, we just want low end torque and mpg. change or hone the nozzles to ddp 35 to 50 hp. ddp does not list the 35 but they do supply them. the 50 are stock. the reason the 35 is a little better is because as the nozzle wears it wears to more hp, that is why the truck gets better mileage as the truck nears 75,000 miles. after 50 hp the truck drops to stock mpg at about 80hp. get a smarty jr leave the torque set on default set timing to 4 and on tow or sw2 as it is called. get a fbd turbo back straight pipe kit 5". get a m090072 resonator and a m090535 muffler and 4 clamps from ryder truck parts. for the first one i did it took me 5 hours. after about the 10th one i can do it in about 3 hours. it takes longer to remove the old one than you think. i install them by my self and you do not need any special tools. i have my own shop and change the cams and nozzles here. you will probably have to pay labor. do the nozzle change at the same time as cam to save labor. send me your email and i will send pix. use the left over pipe to extend the exhaust out further to keep the fenders cleaner. from ah64id There is no external EGR on any 5.9. The 04.5-07 meet the 04 emissions by utilizing "in-cylinder" EGR. The 4 big ways this was done was cam, pistons, timing, and turbo.

The cam lobes are timed so that the intake is a longer duration, and the exhaust is very short (shorter than any other Cummins in a Dodge) and the exhaust closes sooner to keep more gasses in the cylinder, this decreases combustion temp.

The pistons are a non-reentrant design and don't promote as good of air movement and combustion, again reducing peak combustion temps (and makes the pistons really easy to melt)

The timing is retarded to again reduce peak cylinder pressure and combustion temps, and to raise the EGT's to help the Cat work.

The Turbo has a very inefficient tubrine wheel and small housing, this provides backpressure on the manifold to again reduce the exhast scavanging effect.

The 03-04 actually has the same cam, and the turbine is even smaller, but its the combo of the timing and the pistion in the 04.5-07's that completes the effect.

Personally I have changed my cam, use the Smarty Jr for timing, and will be swapping turbo's this spring.. should help clean up my oil, combustion, and power... thou it will increase the NOx effects.