i am wanting to put a blow off valve on my truck, but i cant see spending 700 dollars on a BD blow off valve. I know the BD bov has a microprocessor and it plugs into our tps and thats what controls it, but could i use a standard bov like a Turbonetics Godzilla bov that does not have a microprocessor?

 

From what I understand, you wouldnt be able to dial it in correctly since theres no vaccuum source(which is what standard BOVs go off of, I believe)
Even with the BD, I hear its a pita to dial in.
I wish there was a cheaper alternative, but I think BD is the only company with one that will work on our trucks right now....

 

Why would you want a BOV? Do you have a non-wastegated turbo? Do you have an automatic or manual? Answer those questions and I'll have something to say.

 

A BOV does acutally do some good when you can dial it in properly, helps keep the pressure from building up with nowhere to go when you are wfo and let out, and barks the turbo...

It lets off that pressure that builds up when you cant let out of it slowly.

 

I have the BD BOV and it is expensive and a difficult install and tuning process. Luckily I have a performance guru with experience with them and he did a great job. I am glad I had it installed. I was tired of the barking.

It does not matter if you have a wastegated turbo or not. On an auto, especially on a built one with tighter tc and modded you can bark your turbo with moderate/hard acceleration and have to let off quickly because of traffic. My stock turbo started barking as soon as I had the TC/Trans upgraded. The II SPS66 just barked louder and longer.

 

The BOV and Wastegate have nothing to do with each other. The wastegate is an exhaust bypass that allows exhaust to exit without moving past the wheel of the turbo, thus controlling pressure. The BOV is between the turbo and engine and is a realease for when there is more air traveling toward the engine than the engine can take in - be it letting off the throttle or whatever.

 

I didn't say it was no good. I didn't say anything about it. I was just asking why he wants one. RamWheelsBy4, does yours only blow off when you let off the throttle or what? What is it set to?

 

Anything other than the BD BOV won't work because of the vaccum reason. I would be way to much trouble. Honestly, I'm not worried about it at all. I could spend $700 on things that are much more fun for my truck!

 

i got one on my truck and it eliminated the turbo bark 100%. did take some time to get it set perfect but after that, i cant bark the turbo even if i try. would i do it again, probably not becuase i havent heard many people braking shafts or bearings going out from turbo bark, but it does sound cool when you dump 55psi of air under your hood!!!!!!!!!!

 

The wastegate does have something to do with the air going toward to engine. As you said, the exhaust can bypass the turbo with a wastegate. If you had the wastegate open all the time then you wouldn't get any boost. The wastegate controls how much boost you have. Boost is the pressurized air going into the engine. When you let off from high boost with only a wastegate you are hearing the wastegate open and close releasing the pressure or bypassing the turbo so more boost is not to be created. Yes, releasing the pressure in this manner may affect the spin of the turbo. I guess there is still some boost going to the engine, but I'm not to sure about how much. Why does it matter? I'll make my turbo "bark" and see how quickly the boost falls. I'm not saying a BOV is bad. Go ahead and use one. It's just not very important. A BOV might help most in a manual in shifting to bring on boost faster, but I don't know everything about that.

 

Mine would bark with certain level of excelleration and release of throttle. Not necessarily WOT full boost level. My wastegate is set at 55psi and I rarely see that level except at the track. Also would bark at lockup points depending on how I was accelerating. Stack settings certainly have an effect in my case.

I can still make it bark sometimes if I stay WOT and go through OD/Lockup shifts, but I have to try and make it bark even then. Before it barked a lot with just normal daily driving. Like when accelerating up an entrance ramp to freeway speeds and then having to left off a little quicker than normal, getting on it to change lanes, etc.

I will have to get the manual out to be precise on the settings. There are three variable setting switches on the controller for tuning. More to it than just tps release. Fortunately for me, Michael did all the tuning as part of the install. He said if it needed tuning just read the manual and make any adjustment necessary, so far it has worked flawlessly for me.

 

by the way buddy turbo bark is not air going through the wastegate. its air going back through the turbin trying to make your compressor wheel go the opposite direction. you tell me that a turbin shaft spinning so many thousand rpms then suddenly trying and going the opposite direction is good and that for bigger turbo/turbos that a BOV is not important. expecially when you can bark the turbo on command.

 

Get at non-wastegated turbo and tell me it makes the same sound as a wastegated. Do you have graphs of the acceleration of the turbo during bark? That's what you need if you really want to see what it's doing and how much force there is. inline6power is the one saying that he hasn't heard of many people having anything in the turbo going bad from barking. You said you wouln't get a BOV again, but now you say it's important. I didn't say turbo bark was good. Everyone, get a BOV. I didn't say they were bad.

 

i had an ATS NON WASTEGATED aurora 2000 and i could bark it at will as well. yes i said i could have spent 650$ on something better to say, do i still think its important, YES. said i havent heard of TO MANY, never said it dont happen quite often. i have seen pics of what turbo bark can do. and i wasnt trying to say i am write or wrong,but dont tell everyone that turbo bark has everything to do with air going to the wastegate because thats completly wrong. so explain to me how i could bark a non wastegated turbo then genius.

 

Ok guys, lets keep the thread informational.

It has been so long since I looked at the controller I forgot the actual adjustments. There are four calibration options for tuning. I think two or even three of the four will be pretty close by default, but then every truck/turbo(s) is different.

Four potentionmeters for adjustment:

APPS:
Set the amount of voltage from the APPS/TPS that needs to be dropped before the valve will open.

TIME:
To set the period of time that the APPS/TPS setting must be initiated in to activate the valve.

RE-APPLY:
To set the amount of re-apply of APPS/TPS voltage to allow before canceling the valve activation.

Pulse:
Set the length of time that the valve should be pulsed open for.

A Cancel input can be used to shutdown/turn off operations with an external switch applying 12volts. I need to do this for the track.

As you see there can be a lot of tuning to be done to get the operation you want for the specific configuration of the truck.

I am still glad I spent the money and it is cool to hear the pssst, psssst and see the heads turn.