For all that have read about freeze plug nightmares, block off plates (not fixing the problem just moving the weak point), puking coolant after hard runs, and worst off blowing soft plugs in the head and roasting your motor, here is a little something to think about.

Some very reasonable priced kits have come on the market to save us. I dont care if you are pushing 400hp or 1000hp, anyone with performance mods should do some reasearch on the benifits of these kits.

Bottom line I have talked to a few vendors and even if you are NOT runing 4000rpm tunes you can still see coolant pressures in the head of 100psi. Their has been some speculation 60psi is borderline. These kits reduce that pressure greatly and stop the damage that can occur from blowing a freeze plug, or worse yet a soft plug.

Im no expert so my #s may be a little off but I think they are close to what one of the vendors told me. Bottom line is when you turn up the power and boost you put more stress on your freeze and frost plugs. If either fail you can loose your motor in mere moments.

All I want you guys to know is this is a major issue with a very easy fix, and in my mind is a must do for anyone with any type of performance upgrades.

These kits can be purchased thru
Lazar Smith BOE kit
Intelligent engineering (Opie)
Enterprise engineering


I am in no way affiliated with these guys, but this issue has cost a few guys their trucks, and A BLOCK OFF PLATE IS NOT THE ANSWER. I just dont want to see or hear about any of our members loosing their truck when $200-$450 depending on vendor can save you.

 

Good post Ryan, and true. Many of us are in the 20 thousand range in mods and 300-500 more is nothing. We keep finding weak links as the ragged edge is pushed, but that is the nature of hi performance.

 

enterprise engine is the other one ryan.

 

Thats right thank you sir.

 

Out of curiosity why would hp and boost affect the mechanically driven H2O pump? I understand the issues with turning more than 3.2K, but if your not over spinning the H2O pump it should not be an issue.. .at least that is my thinking.

 

This is what I thought too, but smarter people than me started going into every psi=3 degrees F etc,etc. All I know is people before any of the 3.2K+ programs were having problems. And again we never really know when our thermostat is open 10% 50% or 100% yet the pump keeps on a rolling so where does the pressure go IDK. On top of that I have heard about steam pockets in the head and cool coolant from the rad pouring in and causing pressure to go up and things to blow. Let me say Im not smart enough to keep up, but I do know this has been a problem for guys running standard 3.2K fueling software. So as stated I think this is a big issue.If you want full explanations on how it works and the problems I would contact one of the vendors above and they can discuss the how and why. Im just trying to let guys know this is an issue, and their are a few ways to fix it .

 

How about some links to these places, googling them doesnt really help out any..

Thanks

 

THEY ARE A MUST!

Happily rolling with an Opie Bypass.

 

I second that Christian.

 

http://lazarsmith.com/science.html
http://www.opieparts.com/Products.htm

I don't know the link for Enterprise.

 

Question, not argument, how is the pressure in the block so high when it is not in the radiator? I understand that the stat closed will cause a restriction, but if it is open, won't the cap blow? I would like to see the spec on cummins water pump pressure. The cyl head is the hot spot, not the block, so doesn't the flow go from head to radiator? Is the cap puking also?

 

because the radiator is on the suction side of the system so it does not have the same high pressure.....

 

Could anyone pm me prices and or pics on some of the other kits? I have seen lazers, but it wont work with my external wastegate, there in the same spot.

 

Hey Mark, could you post up a pic of your bypass system?

 

I recently lost my freeze plug in the rear and got the kit through enterprise for $163 delivered. It was sweet too. Machined plate with an O-ring in place of the plug. Had threaded hole in the middle for the outlet which was 5/8 hose and a pressure relief valve that I set to 17 lbs and the tee's back in to the top radiator hose. The service was perfect and the quality was outstanding. It can be put in without even dropping the down pipe. Just lube the o-ring and push it in. Then three flywheel size bolts which were actually pretty easy to get to with a gearwrench. Lucky for me the freeze plug blew all the way out. The hardest part will be getting the old plug out. One less thing to worry about was worth the 1/2 hour install. Good luck getting the plug out though.