soulezoo

I won't say you should get one, or say you shouldn't.

I'll tell you this though:

A good set of twins will compress a very large volume of air. This creates a lot of heat-- often 650* of heat. It is the job of the CAC (charge air cooler or intercooler) to reduce those temps. If the aftermarket CAC can reduce the air temp going into the engine some 150* less than the stock CAC, what would you rather do? The stock CAC also has a much lower threshold on airflow and even less of a heat sink effect... meaning the ability to absorb then exchange the heat.

All CAC designs perform some sort of compromise to achieve the goal. Some sacrifice air dwell time in the CAC (time to transfer heat from air tothe core) for less internal resistance and etc.

CD in NM

When my stock turbo in my 2006 was on its way out I decided to go with a 62 over a 475. I tow, tow heavy, like you just about everything under the sun, and I tow at altitude, which CAN be a problem if you mod too much.

Our 2006's are rather finicky about sticks, many have had egt problems when they have gone to anything greater than 90's. The stock CP3 can handle a lot more than it is given credit, and the stock intercooler is just fine with the twoing twins.

I just clear the 700hp club, think it was 715, but would have to find my paper to see for sure. I am running a stock CP3, stock sticks, GDP plenum and intake horn, and the twins, also a 5" exhaust, no cat, and a minimal muffler. I am running a Smarty Jr set on level 3 and defaults as well.

I figured I would just do some minimal mods to increase the intake and exhaust, run a mild programmer, and see what I got, I am very happy with my current setup, tow beast and street beast without the headaches that would go with more mods than what I have.


CD

AH64ID

How do you hit 700+ on a Smarty Jr and stock sticks? SW3 is good for about 400 rwhp. The stock fuel system is limited to about 550-600 rwhp.. just can't flow enough fuel thru the stock sticks with a stock CP3 on the main event.

CD in NM

Well, can't answer that question, but I went to a reputable dyno shop, did 4 runs total, the last two were over 700. Forget to add that I have a modded rail as well. I had problems with an injector, actually a couple of them when I first bought my truck, they put all new injectors in, maybe they are not exactaly stock??


CD

Big Swole

700 is poss on a stock cp3 but not sure about the stock inj. tips!

The only truck I know of that made over 700 on a stock cp3 was BUS on CompD and he was spraying NOS... But im pretty sure his injs. were not stock size.

But hey, its all good.

AH64ID

Sounds like that's your torque figure! You would need a HUGE injector to break 700 hp with just a Smarty Jr...

This was with my stock turbo, but twins aren't going to add over 300 hp.. that takes fuel.

soulezoo

Agreed with above on the torque figure. It would take at least DDP 90's to hit 700hp on fuel only.

AH64ID

And more duration than the Jr provides.

mcolectd

Thanks y'all. I was just looking at the ic for cooler egts when I'm towing, but I would wait on that till after the twins and injectors to see whether I needed it or not

mcolectd

I know my wifes truck gets pretty hot towing, with II 120s and II towing twins. It's managable but it could use an aftermarket Intercooler for sure and it's hard to tow real heavy with. It's pushin a little over 700

cbrahs

that pretty nice of you to do twins on the wifes truck before yours. It has its advantages doing it that way. you can always say

"but honey, your truck already has twins and mine needs them for towing"

LOL!!

CD in NM

Hey . . You guys are right, that was my torque, and, it was 751.2 (not 715-transposed brain/fuzzy memory), my hp was 546.1 . . that was my 3rd run. SORRY for the wrong numbers, I was just going off memory, and it was a POOR memory at that . .



CD

JJPage

I am not sure how anyone is managing to tow heavy at 600+hp (even with compounds). I am not talking egt's here, I am referring to our coolant system, it's not large enough.

I have found on my truck anything over 450hp, and it starts getting hot if pulling hard. All trucks are a bit different, but our 3rd gen coolant systems are all very similar.....

To the OP, you are not going to tow heavy at your hp goal and have your motor stand up to those conditions, not for very long anyways .

AH64ID

Still an amazing hp number for a Smarty Jr! Something doesn't seem quite right, the SW3 is about 100hp over stock, and 546 is over 250hp over what stock does to the wheels... Did you do the dyno at elevation and those are corrected numbers? My corrected numbers are 437/808 on the corrected sheet.

It's also an interesting ratio of hp to tq, and indicates a much higher rpm than stock. I make nearly the same tq with 140 less hp in stock rpms.

Not trying to say you are wrong, just something doesn't add up.. I have dyno'd the Jr several times on two trucks and never seen any numbers like those. Turbo's don't add hp, they just add air and allow for more fuel. You may get a few hp from more air but not 140.

I agree, 450 seems to be the limit of useable sustained hp. It's amazing how heavy you have to be to use all of your hp. I rarely get my thermostat to go full open, even towing thru the mountains of Idaho.. I am only at 15K-16K thou.

Crazy Diesel

I've had a couple of local shops tell me that same thing. Much over 500hp and truck turns into a toy. They even told me that their trucks with 650 and over really suck to drive on wet pavement. Tq numbers high at that point and tire spin happens really easy if your not careful. I don't know my truck has your basic up grades but I'd like to turn up the hp just don't know how much and if I'll ever stop lol.