On their web sight Trango says that there is a step that you need to remove the tranny to do but it will work fine without this step. Can anyone tell us what that stap is?
Also should you put in any other parts like the second gear band thing-ma-bob?
Also how firm are we talking here on the shifts, does it jerk your head no matter what the throttle is or what?

 

Does the Trans-Go apply more holding pressure while the converter is in lockup? i.e. will the stock converter hold more power in lockup with the Trans-Go kit than it will with just a stock VB?

 

Front Drum Seals is the step for when the trans is out. Not sure on the shift yet.

And yes it will have more holding pressure with a stock or aftermarket converter

 

I installed the Trans-go shift kit 5 days ago and am pleased with the results. Firm shifts, not hard shifting. The truck will get rubber going into second gear at WOT. Didnt do that before. I drilled the two holes that result in firmer TC lock-up. I seem to recall a post from a couple weeks ago where somebody was asking about drilling 1 or 2 holes. I dont think the lock-up feel is hard, kinda feels like another shift. Be careful when grinding the converter clutch valve, the metal go fast! I had to get a replacement valve from a junk vb. The biggest suprise was how much fliud the trans took to fill. I dont know how drained from the TC but I ended up pouring in almost 3 gallons of ATF. The biggest plus is no more 1-2 shuttle shift. Maybe Dodge should look to trans-go instead of replacing all those gov pressure sensors!

 

That is great to hear. Did you swap in the seals too?

 

The step where the trans is removed is updating the seals on the pump hub to the front drum. The shift kit will work fine without this step, but, the teflon rings are to replace the stock metals that have a tendency to lock into place under the increased pressure and wear prematurely. Its not a big taboo to leave them just realize that there is a possiblity on problems in the future.

With the shift kit you need the billet band strut and billet front servo cover to handle the extra pressure. You could update the front and rear servo with billet pieces but thats a nice to have not a requirment.

My shifts are just firm and positive not neck snapping. It depends on how the VB is setup to shift.


Yes and yes. The shift kit raises the line pressures and line pressure is what is used to apply the lockup clutch. More pressure equals more holding force and the ability to use more power before it slips.

The danger is at some point the stock TC starts flexing and twisting. Once that starts you start loosing contact on the clutches and the flex plate bolts start working loose. When I pulled my trans to replace the TC four of the flex plate bolts were not more than minimally tight. They were loose enough you could see evidence of where the lugs were starting to twist and move against the flex plate.

If you want to be able to use more power one REALLY needs a billet cover TC or carnage will ensue.

 

I didnt remove the trans, so I didnt install the new sealing rings. When I called Trans-Go to ask about drilling the holes for TC lock-up Glenn told me that if I didnt want later part-throttle upshifts to leave the stock throttle vavle spring in place. He told me some people complained about the later shifts. I installed the new spring and there is a noticeable delay in upshifts. Maybe be good when towing. Im just thrilled it got rid of the 1-2 shuttle-shift! I dont think the delayed shift is bad, just wanted to warn people out in readerland. Hope this helps!

 

When you say later upshifts do you mean that it holds the gear longer before shifting to the next gear while accelerating, kind of dragging the gear out.

Or do you mean that it takes more throttle before the trans will down shift?

 

The trans shifts later with the same throttle opening. In other words, lets says at a set throttle point the trans made the 1-2 shift at 15mph. At the same throttle position it now shifts at 18mph. Like I said, not a big change but noticeable. Looking forward to pulling my Olds to the dragstrip soon to see if it got rid of the converter slipping/chattering. I need to find the time to install the new conveter. Hope that helps!

 

Thank you so much for the info and the quick reply. I am going to call the shop tomorrow and tell them to go ahead and leave the stock spring in there. I don't think I would like the gears to drag out longer.

Again thanks so much for the info.

 

Man this is good stuff!

 

As you can see I have 2003 48re just had transmission rebuilt by local DC dealer. Had him to replace tc with D.G. triple disk and to put Transgo kit in vb. Got it back yesterday can really fell the deference in a real goooood way. I am experiencing a little longer period between 1@2 shift with light throttle. Also 2-3-2 shift under light throttle going up small grade. 1-2 shift is firm but not jerky 2-3 is not as hard and 3-lockup is just right. Going to talk to transmission tech Monday he said that might need a little adjustment. Over all I likes it. Oh yes under normal throttle it shifts at 1800 rpm and tc lockup at 49mph. At 65mph rpms are 1750-1800.

 

Well I didn't catch them in time, they got the shift kit in and got the VB back in the truck last night. I hope I don't mind the longer drawn out shifts

What do you guys think of the later shifts are you liking them or do you wish you would have left the stock spring in?

 

I think it helps. Never liked the short shifting to begin with. I think it may also be the main reason shuttle shift dissappears with TQ management removal when a shift kit is installed.

 

I also would like to know i'm sending my truck in next week for the transgo kit, bands and servo from Goerend to a Goerend installer. i was gonna tell him to leave the spring ot since i dont ktow ever and dont mind the short shifts. What is the general consensus of the spring? Has anyone done the valvebody bore plugs? My installer recommened it for 50-60k miles im not close to that but would like to get a firm shift so whatever helps.