Heck! It's flexible, impervious to oil, and is a smooth bore. First restriction would be the fitting at the top for the hose.

Sounds like a plan

 

Just a suggestion - use a hose clamp and secure it to the side of the canister so it stays on the bottom like I did mine with the stiff portion of the draw straw. You'll have to cut two slits in the side of the canister to feed the clamp band through. There is one of my pics that shows the clamp on the outside of the canister on mine.

Also, can copper be soldered to brass?? Just thinking. If it can, the nipple that screws into the bottom of the bulkhead fitting (may have to cut the "lip" off the nipple), flare the copper tube, slide over the nipple, and solder..............that would be sweet and guaranteed not to leak if it can be done.

You might be on to something new and intriguing - never heard of that been done before. Take lots of pics and let us know how it goes.

I like it!!

 

Yes brass can be soldered to Copper. I was going to fore go the bulkhead connector and just drill through the top with a tight drill and epoxy it in. I can solder a street L on the top, use a close nipple and put the push on fitting on. Done Same with the return.

I saw the strap on the bottom. The only thing I have to figure out is how i am going to figure the length. I guess I can put some sort of a spacer under the copper, push the assembly into the tank and mark then. If it do it right, the Street L on the top will hold it up and the clamp at the bottom. Simple

 

If it helps for measurement, the springs compress 1/2" to 3/4" when seating it in up top.

When the tank bottom does expand and contract with weather, or weight of fuel, and / or both, I figure the tank bottom has up & down movement anywhere up to the 1/2" - depending on conditions of course.

 

I agree. It's almost like I need to have short piece of hose at the bottom. But I think I can allow like 9/16 and slit the edges of the tube like I mentioned before. I won't even have to grind away all the plastic reinforcement then. Pretty cool. and cheap.

 

Festus,
You mentioned that you put your suction line almost at the bottom (unless I missed it), how far down did you put the return line into your fuel canister?

 

Wow - Sorry! I never saw this question. I must have been away at work when posted.

My return drops to just above my OEM pump. I use the fuel dropping onto the top of the pump as a demister pad like in an inlet separator in the oilfield.....liquid / gas (or air in this case) drops onto the pump, fuel drops to the bottom of the canister for more entrained air free fuel to be sucked up, and any air bubbles up away from the suction line.

 

You were perfectly correct Joe!

I blew up (2) heavy duty senders. Now, my Commander has been down in Fort Worth since early May for the transducer upgrade. I hope its back soon.

 

I ended up doing exactly that on suction tube. . . I found a pin hole in my suction tube. I cut the tube off and used a double ended 1/2" barb. I heated the tube with a heat gun and pushed the barb in. Put the hose. Slipped it into the hole and then put the clamp on. I made the hose long enough so it would just lay on the bottom back by the stock pump. I slit an opening in the bottom so the hose could suck right from the bottom and not get sealed off.

This weekend I ran it down to about 4 gallons with no issues so I have to say it saved my butt. I just put the return in the neck like the instructions said.

 

No worries. Thank you for responding. You provide very good detail even for a novice like me.

 

Update: transducer still working perfectly.

 

Festus-

For these "feet" ... did you just cut multiple vertical slits around the circumference of the tube and then flare the cuts out so it looks like an engine intake / exhaust valve?

-Thanks-