im about to install my ad150 and im looking at this pile of wiring they give you and thinking to myself "there has to be an easier way" all it needs is power and ground just like the stock liftpump.

so im trashing the ad wiring harness (except for the plug that goes to the pump) and simply wiring up power and ground from my stock liftpump. i will cut off the plug from the ad harness that plugs into the ad pump and splice it into the factory + and - at the stock liftpump plug. im pretty sure the stock liftpump is already fused (although i havent checked yet) so that shouldnt be an issue, otherwise i can also cut off the fuse link from the ad harness and install it in the + wire if needed.

if all goes well this will eliminate all the extra aftermarket wiring and relay. im not sure why ad didnt do it this way to begin w/ because i called them today and spoke w/ tech and he said it will work this way but they provide the wiring to give us a relay and fuse. now im no expert but i would have to think that the truck would come stock w/ a liftpump fuse and it must already have a relay for the pump to run when the ignition is keyed on.

i plan on trying to splice into the factory pump wiring far enough away from the tank so that if the ad ever fails i could crawl under the truck and get to the connection to splice the factory wires back together then just reconnect the factory supply at the cp3 and the stock system would work again....hopefully.

anyone see any reason why all this wont work? just want to make sure im not forgetting about anything.

 

I would use their wiring harness..... FASS systems wire direct without a relay and they have been known to smoke wiring. The AD setup is great (I have one and have installed several). The relay is a nice piece to have on a pump with the electrical draw of the aftermarket pumps. You can use some wiring loom to make the job really look nice.

 

I'd think sine the AD pumps way more than the factory pump it would draw a lot more too.
I'd use the relay.

 

isnt the relay only there to trigger power to the pump from the key on position? i never thought of a relay as a safety device of any kind, that is what the fuse is for isnt it?

doesnt the stock circuit already have a relay and fuses anyway? what am i missing?

 

The gauge of the wire is not heavy enough for the power draw.

Lots of power on small gauge wire creates lots of heat, melting of the insulation, short, then more stuff for you to fix after you get yourself out from being stranded because of it. Use the supplied wire harness and save yourself huge hassles.

 

ahhh i see, didnt think about the gauge of the wire. thanks for pointing that out.

 

No problem. I learned at a really young age wiring things on the farm that heavier than required gauge wire is always best.

 

The stocker has a 5 amp draw and the AD requires more. I'm sure you've looked up *****'s install. Just tie the single wire to the hot that goes to the stock lift pump orange and red IIRC. Hook up the positive and negative at the battery plug in the connector at the AD and you're in business. I mounted the relay to a lil' hole that was in the battery tray. Probably should pull the fuses at the fuse box so you can't short anything. Really simple I tryed exactly what you descibed though cause my instructions were funky. I thought they were changed for all the later kits though?

 

no, my instructions are really funky as well and have the wrong color wires described for the truck as well as the ad trigger wire itself from ad

so you tried it the way i described? how did it work out?

 

I had one heck of a time figureing out those instructions on the wireing, so i just jump on the laptop looked on here and another site and in 5mins i had what i needed!!
Im thinkin about wireing in two rocker switches(in cab) one for the AD and one for the factory system. I have a 1/2" 90* fitting that is tapped on top to go on the cp3 and gonna use that tap to tie the factory in, i have the GDP big line kit so its gonna be 3/8" comein into the tapped 90*.
I have two switches here that are rated for 30 amps and are 3 post, do i need to ground the switches or can i just run the power in and back out to the pumps?
One is lighted blue for the AD and the other is lighted red for the factory.
Main reason i wanna do this is to have the factory with the fuel heater for really cold winter starts!
What ya think?

 

Use the provided harness, you'll melt the original wiring.

JR

 

Must have stopped doing that a long time ago... Installed a few (including my own) and seen many, all use the stock plug for trigger and relay to carry the power...

 

Hmmm IIRC (been a while) I think it would start up for a second or two and then shut off. Or maybe it wasn't starting at all? I was having a tough time with those instructions and throw that Jeep module in the mix. I know this for sure IT DID NOT WORK RIGHT so don't go there

 

Sounds like it will work, but my electrical skills are extremely limited so somebody else will have to give you the go ahead. Draw a lil' diagram in paint then copy it in here to your post.

 

If I am not mistaken the factory fuel pump fuse and relay are only rated for 10A. the factory pump only draws 5-7A. Most aftermarket pumps draw 15A or more which is why most aftermarket setups use the factory relay to power a second relay and power supply to the pump to handle the higher current of the new pump. Using only the factory relay and fuse will likely result in blown fuses and/or melted parts/wiring.