Hey Guys,

I know there are some topics about Shift Kit's and VB's lingering around the board. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy and would prefer to install the kit in my VB rather than paying someone else to do it. I'm looking for some feed back from others that have installed the Kits them selves and the results they have seen to help me decide which kit to go with.

If you could take a few moments and let me know what kits have been used and what the outcome was of those kits that would be great.

Thanks Guys,

 

I strongly suggest that you just go ahead and purchase the fully assembled valve body. That way the pressures are set correctly, the shift points are done right, everything is asembled properly, and if installed correctly, it'll work the first time.

 

Thanks for the responce but I would rather not have to post cluttered up with "You should just buy and install a VB". I am going to do my own, and would like this post to only contain imput from others that have done thiers with the results they have had... good or bad.

 

I did my own and I love it. I put the "kit" together off many recommendations and posts on another board by a tranny builder. It may not be a big name valve body and it might not be as "tweeked" as theirs but oover 35,000 miles of firm shifts have made it worth my 125.00 dollars. I will look for all the part numbers but I am pretty sure you can't use what I did because the 05 and up trucks are completely drive by wire where as mine actually uses a throttle cable for the pressures.

 

Thanks Ron.... Anyone running an 05 or 06 with a self installed Shift Kit?

 

probably very few people are running them, because they chose to do it the right way and have it set up by professionals. Shift kits are ok but they are no match for a full vb done the right way.

 

"probably very few people are running them, because they chose to do it the right way and have it set up by professionals. Shift kits are ok but they are no match for a full vb done the right way"

I usually don't disagree often but I do with this. I think it is more of the fact that it is easier and most people don't know their way around the transmission at all. It is just easier to change the whole piece. If you are comfortable tearing down the valve body, you can do it. yes, the big companies put some time into testing and getting springs and pressures to their liking but 400-500 for a valve body, come on. Do what you like, cause I have rode in a few trucks with valve bodies from 3 different big companies and I garuntee they don't shift much different than each other and not much different than mine if any. i am out 125.00 and some time.

 

Spoke with Dusty at HTS. He set me up with a Kit and gave me some pointers. I'll be installing the kit tomorrow or Saturday. I'll let you guys know how it is once it's done.

On a Side note HTS Has gone over and above the call of duty. Their Customer Service has been great I'd recommend them to anyone based on my interactions.

 

please enlighten me as to what is "right" about their vb that a kit could not do. if I could upload the pics I could give you better shifts and faster tc lock up without buying a single part. anyone willing to travel and learn I would show them how to build the unit. I built v-b's for dc over 10 years so I know my way around them. with engineerings help we started to mod them with great success. the only thing a purchased vb does is give you line pressure that will not be be the ecms best freind without a mod to fool it. ats does so electronicly and the electronis can be bought separate. some do so by putting relief into the vb so its not high at idle, I prefer ats method as auto trans best freind is line pressure.

 

Mine is about 60 at idle and runs about 165 psi at WOT, what is mine not doing that a VB will do???????

 

Oh this is interesting! Ive got an 04, how do I find out about doing my own vb? Someone already mentioned they new how!

 

Ok, here is what I did. It is a basic superior kit that uses a couple different springs and you enlarge a few seperator plate holes. It also has you drill some passages in the valve body casting. If you use the valves listed instead, you don't have to drill the casting. I like this method. Feel free to look the valve descriptions up on the sonax website. these do things like move the check valve into the valve body and some other things. so you follow the superior kit instrucions to a "T" except never drill the casting itself, use the other valves. all this together cost me about 125 and some shipping, maybe a little more. I don't have the paperwork in front of me. It shifts so different than that sloppy crap fromthe factory. They (axiom) even have a converter that is a good bit sheaper than most. I will be trying that soon.

good luck

Here is the list I had, please let me know if you need anything else.
Modifications made to the 48RE included a Superior VB kit for the 99 up
A500/618. (Superior Part #K500-618-L)

The kit was installed as per instructions except for the following.

1)Do not drill the Pressure Regulator valve wall as per kit as
a Sonnax Pressure Regulator valve is used instead. (Sonnax part
#2271-02K)

2)Do not drill the Valve Body casting for the manual valve
that comes in the kit because a Sonnax valve is used instead.
(Sonnax part #22771-09)

3)Replace the 4-spool lockup valve with a Sonnax 4 spool
convertor valve. (Sonnax part #22771A-01)

4)I also delete or remove the cooler line check valve as the
Sonnax PR valve moves the check valve into the VB where it belongs. The
original check valve is located in one of the cooler lines where the
lines go from the metal to rubber line at the fender well and its part of the coupler.

5)Replace stock torque converter with ATC/Repco part #CR70X-S1
I use this 99 up Superior Kit on ALL models RWD OD Dodges with the
incorporation of the Sonnax valve set.

1) This keeps the convertor charged at full throttle and lube flow
at max.

2) It also allows for extended idle in park. The Sonnax manual valve
with the Pressure Regulator valve achieves this goal.
These modifications are highly recommended with any rebuild and
Required for all diesel applications in my shop. The above modifications work extremely well for lockup and are PERFECT for a lower stall convertor like this one. The convertor is well suited in the 305 HO '03 and '04 models and the new 325 hp 600 ft lbs torque for the '04.5 models.

Bobby at AXIOM in Charlotte NC (256)767-3141 can help you order these

 

drilling the body is one way, grinding the tabs off the separator plate ,you drill, is another. the "tabs" are the ones right below the switch valve, point is bleed the tc off. small spring(switch valve) on the retainer the large one is the regulator valve(and adjustable). one turn counter clockwise is good for around 3 psi more line pressure. much more the ecm will not like to downshift,second gear starts, too fast upshifts. I drill some, some guys prefer you not to. same results either way. however grinding you can do one tab and go back if more is needed. I have found the multi disk tc don't like the fast bleed like the single. I will try and find a way to upload some pics.

 

I think I'm gonna try a shift kit next week in my '05, not sure which one yet.

Its so hard to find info on the '05/'06 tranny/shift kits. At least, its hard to find consistent info.

 

Hang tight Igor,

I'll let you know how mine comes out.

--Rich